No hot start.
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No hot start.
so whenever I’m starting it for the first time in the morning I let it cycle through the plugs twice and let my airdrop pump cut off. It turns over pretty slow and sounds weak but it always fires right off. Then if I were to go through a drive through and turn the engine off then go to turn it right back on it won’t start. It will spin over fine but just won’t fire. I have to wait like 5 minutes then when I try to start it after 5 minutes it will take atleast 10 seconds to fire. Any ideas what it could be? I have a high voltage FICM. Truck has stage 2 power max turbo, industrial injection injectors, and fully bullet proofed
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6,545
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From: Virginia Beach VA
Your asking for trouble cycling the key twice for glow plugs... the tips have been known to come off and go through the motor. The extra heat causes them to crack/melt or whatever they may do. The plugs are on well after the wait to start light goes out. Key it, wait for the light to extinguish and start it.
Vacuum pump has nothing to do with it.
You have a high pressure leak internal to the motor. The hot oil is thin, finds an opening to leak from (o-ring, seal), so it doesn't build enough pressure to start.
Cold oil builds pressure easier (clogs the opening)... why waiting allows a start, the oil cooled down. Eventually, you'll get a no-start cold if the leak gets bad enough.
Welcome to the forum.
Vacuum pump has nothing to do with it.
You have a high pressure leak internal to the motor. The hot oil is thin, finds an opening to leak from (o-ring, seal), so it doesn't build enough pressure to start.
Cold oil builds pressure easier (clogs the opening)... why waiting allows a start, the oil cooled down. Eventually, you'll get a no-start cold if the leak gets bad enough.
Welcome to the forum.
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Thanks for the response. That makes since I’ve had a oil leak from the rocker box for about a year now and my issue is just now becoming more and more noticible. I didn’t think that would cause it because it’s a very very minor leak. Is there any other explanation out of curiosity for the no start? Just trying to learn as much as I can!
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Those sound much better to fix than tearing the motor apart! Thanks for the tips
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
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From: Virginia Beach VA
Hate to tell you this Doctor... your going in. All of these involve removing parts, just a matter of how many.
Do you have the OEM oil cap and filter installed? You will need to do an air test to find the leak. Reading material for your viewing pleasure: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html
You will find several posts about finding/fixing oil leaks.
Do you have the OEM oil cap and filter installed? You will need to do an air test to find the leak. Reading material for your viewing pleasure: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html
You will find several posts about finding/fixing oil leaks.
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Thanks for the response. That makes since I’ve had a oil leak from the rocker box for about a year now and my issue is just now becoming more and more noticible. I didn’t think that would cause it because it’s a very very minor leak. Is there any other explanation out of curiosity for the no start? Just trying to learn as much as I can!
There is a high pressure oil pump in the engine that takes the engine oil and really cranks up the pressure and this pressure is what may be leaking out of the internal plumbing someplace. If you don’t have at least 500psi, injectors don’t work.
Some engine monitoring apps will tell you how much pressure you are building. If it is adequate then you have problems elsewhere. If the pressure is too low, start looking for leaks.
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