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97' 460 starting issue

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Old Dec 6, 2017 | 11:22 AM
  #1  
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97' 460 starting issue

1997 F-250 HD w/460 engine
So here's the short version. Truck on Friday runs fine, on Saturday it starts and shuts off immediately several times. Finally get it to stay running by jumping on the accelerator and take it for a spin around the block. Running well, so I assume it was a gremlin and shut the truck off, hasn't run since. For a while I could get it to turn over, and holding the pedal down caused it to surge between 2000-4000 RPM and eventually just die. My first assumption was that it was fuel starved. It's a dual tank truck, and it acted precisely the same on both tanks so I went for the fuel pressure regulator. I replaced the regulator, hooked up a gauge and I have 30 psi static and 40 ish when cranking. So not a fuel problem, or a pressure problem anyway. Next thing I notice is my CAT is cherry red, on a sunny day. Never seen this before. So I disconnect the CAT from the Y pipe and conditions did not improve. Next thing I did was pull a spark plug, and it was absolutely drowned in fuel and soot. Clean all plugs, check all wires with a multi-meter. All good there. Still no start. Pulled the codes several times(Key on, Engine not running of course because it won't run) And I get nothing, all 111 and 11. I have an aftermarket Crane Cam ignition in the truck that's approx. 11 years old. My first though is that the code reader wouldn't know if that thing was bad, so I should start there? Or is there maybe something else I should be looking at before I drop another $200 on a new racecar ignition for my old truck?

Thank you,
-Scott
 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 01:31 AM
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have you checked the timing ?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 02:14 AM
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It's one or the other not both. Your computer should be spitting out three digit codes not two digit ones, and certainly not both.

You've got fuel pressure, do you have spark at the plugs? And, I don't mean continuity, or resistance.

Why waste money on a "racecar ignition" when this is a truck that can't go faster than 100mph anyways? Go stock.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 06:37 AM
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Timing should be good, I installed a new distributor about 6 months ago and I marked it.
I get a 111 as a pass code for the active codes, and an 11 as the passcode for the memory codes. The books says either is acceptable. Maybe it's because I have one of those weird 1997 OBD 1 trucks?
I'm almost certain I don't have spark at the plugs. But everything ignition wise seems to be working great, it's all fairly new.
I put the Crane ignition on there a long time ago because I was young, and thought it was awesome. It's probably just as cheap, and a lot easier to just replace the Crane unit with a new one. I've had the truck for 14 years, so I have no idea where the stock one might be at this point. I doubt I have it.
So that's why I asked, if that Crane unit did fail would it throw a code? Or do you get any ignition component codes with the Key On, Engine Off test?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 09:26 AM
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Do you know any mechanics who drive old Fords?

It's interesting to me that people seem to be willing to throw parts at problems like money is no object but resist paying a skilled person to diagnose a problem. Any thoughts?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by HardScrabble
Do you know any mechanics who drive old Fords?

It's interesting to me that people seem to be willing to throw parts at problems like money is no object but resist paying a skilled person to diagnose a problem. Any thoughts?
You make a fair point. The answer to your question is no, I don't know any. I took my truck to a mechanic when I have having the pip sensor problem. He made it clear he really didn't want to mess with it. We had a 20 minute argument, because he just knew you couldn't have a 1997 truck with OBD I. So I kinda gave up on that dude, and I figured out the problem and repaired it myself through use of this forum. (Thank you all, by the way). And everything else I'm aware of in my area is a tire and lube place.
I feel like I have a much better shot of guessing, or getting help here than I do taking it to anyone locally.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2017 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Bowmaster
I get a 111 as a pass code for the active codes, and an 11 as the pass code for the memory codes. The books says either is acceptable.
Ford started to transition from two to three digit codes around 1991.

As previously stated you will get two digit OR three digit codes, not both. Some code readers interpret the separator flash between the KOEO tests and CM (Stored Code) display as Code 10. That is an issue with the code reader, not the computer sending a mix of codes.

Your 1997 F250 should display three codes so your System Pass Code 111 is valid. The Code 11 is not.

Originally Posted by Scott Bowmaster
Maybe it's because I have one of those weird 1997 OBD 1 trucks?
It's not weird at all. Very few heavy duty trucks were OBD-II in 1996/97. California emission trucks with 7.5L engines and GVW under 14k were the only ones that were.



Originally Posted by Scott Bowmaster
So that's why I asked, if that Crane unit did fail would it throw a code?
No it would not.



Originally Posted by Scott Bowmaster
Or do you get any ignition component codes with the Key On, Engine Off test?
No you would not. You would get a CM code if the PIP output was missing or erratic.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2017 | 05:31 AM
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Thank you for the clarification on those items, RLA.
Anytime I pull codes on my truck, or my 89 Bronco II, I get 111-10-11 for all systems go. However, it has pulled error codes before, and been spot on. So I guess that's an error I can live with. The book that came with the reader says either is acceptable.
Mine's a non California, with a calibration code for an ambulance package. I bought the wrong rear drums the first time I did them, apparently mine are jumbo sized. It's an odd bird, but I'm learning more about it as I go along.
I've gotten the pip error before, and replaced the distributor. That's why I'm really leaning towards that Crane unit. Everything else that helps produce spark is less than a year old.
I guess the only other thing, which Joey mentioned earlier is timing? But the distributor hasn't moved, I can't imagine that the chain jumped a few teeth with only 140k on the motor? Once I get spark, I'll check that to be sure.
 
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