i have a 94 bronco not getting spark any ideas?

 

Are you sure it's missing spark and not fuel ? what have you checked ?

 

Fuel pressure test I have 40psi at the scrader valve and holds with key off, I have checked the injectors with a noid light and they passed, I have tested the coil and it test good and has 12V power to it and i tested the ignition module and it tested good. When i put a spaek tester in line to a spark plug I have seen some spark to ground but it won't jump through the tester to a spark plug. could be a bad tester but the engine just turns over but doesn't fire at all. The roter is turning so the timing chain didn't break, I tested the comperssion in all eight cyl. and got 100psi in all, (cold) the truck has 310,000 miles was running good, I went to the store shut it off came out and went to start it and nothing it turned over ok just no sign of fire. Can the ignition switch cause this it is getting worn out?

 

Personally, I say run a KOEO test and see what the truck tells you. When the engine fails to turn over or dies there are fault Codes triggered that will keep you from chasing things that MIGHT be the problem. If I had to guess...(since I can't run the KOEO and see what Codes are present) you are most likely dealing with an issue with the Profile ignition pickup (PIP) in the bottom of the dizzy. It's your "ignition points" with the EFI engine. I'd be willing to bet if you pulled fault codes you would get Code 14 or Code 211. But that is at best an educated guess. KOEO and Codes will tell you for certain.

 

I pulled two codes one was cooling temp sensor out of range and the second was transmission temp sensor out of range. I cleared them and tried again and got 111

 

Pull codes with the engine warm..all three KOEO, CM, KOER if it starts now.

Disassemble and clean the two grounds on the passenger fender connected to the battery negative pig tail. Also the ground near the driver side hood hinge.

Like GS said the PIP or stator in the distributor is a big suspect. If you decide to replace it I would suggest marking EVERYTHING on the distributor as you pull it. Take it to a press and replace the stator pickup with Motorcraft. If you get a rebuilt distributor, that stator may be good cold but fail when hot like yours may have. I failed on distributor roulette thee times with rebuilds.

Find a good used BLACK ICM. And take it with you always. It can be off anything as long as it is black for the 94, any year engine, car or truck. My spare is off a Tarus. If you get another stall or it has not started yet simply disconnect the one in the heat sink and plug the spare in and just let it hang loose to test. The stator and the ICM have roughly the same life and cause the same symptoms.

Last resort, send the PCM to be tested and maybe rebuilt in Houston on the Gulf freeway, ECMTOGO. They are excellent.

 

If it is the distributor what about using a used one from a salvage yard? if so what years and models would be the same?

Thanks

 

Another version of distributor roulette...you MIGHT not lose.

 

Hi all,
Turns out that I have spark, I bought a bad spark tester and then bought a bad coil well once i figured this out and put all the old parts back on it wouldn't start but i heard it fire once maybe one cylinder then nothing. I turned the distributor clockwise and it started so i warmed it up a little and put the distributor back to the factory setting still running, not right but not too bad. I then checked the timing, couldn't see the mark in view of the light so i turned the distributor still couldn't see it so i crawled under the truck with the timing light pointed it at the pulley with the timing mark and there it was a 180 degrees from where it should be. Did it jump time?

Thanks

 

Wait, stop, hold, time out... you reset timing? Timing marks are on the top side. No need to crawl under the truck.

Was the engine at normal operating temperature?
Was the SPOUT jumper/shunt/connector removed?
Is the timing set between 8º and 11º BTDC with the SPOUT removed?

You say you cleared a temperature sensor Code. This could well be the a large part of the problem. If the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor is stuck at a high temperature reading, the computer "thinks" the engine is already hot and leans out the fuel mixture. Combine that with a dirty IAC or even an old set of spark plugs and you may not get it to start.

Second time tonight, that the answers are right there in the Codes, folks.... right there.

BTW, if ANY of the conditions above were NOT met while setting base timing, the timing is incorrect and the problem has been compounded.

 

You're not using the correct spark plug wire, passenger side front is number one.

 

Thats the spak plug wire i did use this bonco has 310,000 oiginal miles that chain has to be pretty steached out don.t you think? its never been replaced

 

I replaced the temp sensor but did not disconnect the spout can you tell me where i can locate it? its a 94 bonco with a 302 the elect seem to be more like a 93, it was built late 93 but called a 94

 

The IAC is new but the plugs do need to be replaced

 

Spout plug is on the drivers side. Under the hood hinge, under the cruise control. Tucked in by the ignition control module which is mounted in a heat sink.