1990 F250 Problems Not Running
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From: Michigan
1990 F250 Problems Not Running
I have a 1990 F250 5.8L 4x4 5 Speed, that will start then stall right away.
I have replaced the plugs, wires, pick up and modual. Tested the coil. The truck will not stay running. This problem started with the truck stumbling a month ago.
Thats when I did the tune up. Then tried the modual and pick up. Checked timing all looks good. I pull the plugs out and they are soaked with gas. I can keep it running if I play with the throttle but it will backfire and stall. Any help would be great.
I have replaced the plugs, wires, pick up and modual. Tested the coil. The truck will not stay running. This problem started with the truck stumbling a month ago.
Thats when I did the tune up. Then tried the modual and pick up. Checked timing all looks good. I pull the plugs out and they are soaked with gas. I can keep it running if I play with the throttle but it will backfire and stall. Any help would be great.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Central NY
Try pulling your computers codes and positng results. Visit www.fordfuelinjection.com to learn how to with just a paper clip. Some parts stores will pull them for free, if not they will sell you a reader for about $30 and save you from counting blinks. Try cleaning the IAC too.
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Topsfield, MA
There are 3 sources of codes...
KOEO - key on engine off
CM - continuous memory (given after KOEO codes are given)
KOER - key on engine running
If you have no codes from all three of those tests - than I'd be looking into a fuel problem. There is a schrader valve on the fuel rail that you can test the fuel pressure. See if you're loosing that pressure and if it's causing the engine to stall out.
KOEO - key on engine off
CM - continuous memory (given after KOEO codes are given)
KOER - key on engine running
If you have no codes from all three of those tests - than I'd be looking into a fuel problem. There is a schrader valve on the fuel rail that you can test the fuel pressure. See if you're loosing that pressure and if it's causing the engine to stall out.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Topsfield, MA
Could be getting too much pressure and flooding the engine...could have a bad injector...
In general, if the computer isn't showing codes - and the tests are done properly it's safe to assume the EFI components are ok, unless the computer is bad which is very unusual. Then you need to look into fuel problems, or other things that the computer won't check (like timing, vacuum leaks, etc).
In general, if the computer isn't showing codes - and the tests are done properly it's safe to assume the EFI components are ok, unless the computer is bad which is very unusual. Then you need to look into fuel problems, or other things that the computer won't check (like timing, vacuum leaks, etc).
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From: Michigan
I checked to see if fuel pressure is bleeding off and it is not. I tried to start the truck then let it sit for 20 minutes with the battery disconected and fuel sprayed out of shrader valve. I did find that their is corrosion in the ECM.
But will not know if this will need to be replaced just yet. Still no KOEO Codes.
But will not know if this will need to be replaced just yet. Still no KOEO Codes.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Topsfield, MA
Whether or not the fuel pressure bleeds off after shutting it down is no indication of a properly functioning fuel system.
What you are suppose to do is get a fuel pressure gauge and screw it onto that schrader valve, and check what the pressure is while the engine is running. If you don't have a Haynes manual, or some other repair manual to guide you, now is the time to get one and read read read
What you are suppose to do is get a fuel pressure gauge and screw it onto that schrader valve, and check what the pressure is while the engine is running. If you don't have a Haynes manual, or some other repair manual to guide you, now is the time to get one and read read read
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From: Michigan
The truck will not start and stay running. plus if it fires it dies right a way. Besides if there is a fuel injector stuck open the fuel pressure would fade out after the fuel pump is shut off. the Truck will not start on either fuel tank. I have two fuel pumps one in each tank. I change both when I bought the truck last year because I had the problem where the fuel return would go to the rear tank. I would not expect the fuel pumps to both go bad on the same day. I will go out and get a pressure gauge to check and see if regulator went out.
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From: Central NY
What could be bad is the fuel pressure regulator. See if its returnable if you don't want the hassle of buying a fuel pressure gauge (not cheap btw) you could just swap it out and see if she'll stay running. Then return it if its not the fix.
Check for vacuum leaks around the intake and throttle body.
Try spraying a can of starter fluid into. If it stays running then its definitely fuel related.
Good luck!
Tim
Check for vacuum leaks around the intake and throttle body.
Try spraying a can of starter fluid into. If it stays running then its definitely fuel related.
Good luck!
Tim
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From: THUNDER BAY
First if you flooded it you should change the oil before you do any thing els I had a simular problem with an 89 after spending oodles of time and money changing this changing that trying to read codes(by the way my truck did the same thing as yours whith the codes flash flash) the computer was dorked. ? have you done any welding on your truck if so you could have fried the computer if you didnt unhook the battery hope this helps
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I'm currently on this site trying to resolve a problem that is simular to yours. I've got a 95 Bronco. That has been cutting out intermittently. Have basically pulled it off the road since before the big hurricanes. Now I've some time to mess with it. I have found some kind of electrical feed back is cutting out my ignition. By pulling the 40 amp headlight fuse from the power distribution box (fuse #19 on the fender) and the exterior lamp fuse (#4 from under the dash) I no longer have problems with keeping the vehicle running. Don't have lights now but that at least helps me to isolate the circut. Anyhow doesn't cost you anything to try this. Also note that I have not performed any modifications to this vehicle and have owned it since new. Please let me know if this helps you or if anyone has heard of a situation simular to mine. Thanks.
My next cheap step is to pull and replace the factory trailer hookup on the rear since it may be waterlogged and corroded where the wires are terminated to the lugs. Though I really doubt this is a problem since I had my trailer hooked up earlier today and all the signal lights are working properly. But who knows. I think they refer to this nightmare as a floating ground system?
My next cheap step is to pull and replace the factory trailer hookup on the rear since it may be waterlogged and corroded where the wires are terminated to the lugs. Though I really doubt this is a problem since I had my trailer hooked up earlier today and all the signal lights are working properly. But who knows. I think they refer to this nightmare as a floating ground system?
Last edited by High Mileage; Jan 2, 2006 at 02:07 PM.
Trailering
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chrisvman,I had this same problem with my 88 4x4 wth a 4.9.sputtering and stinking rich xhaust.first I got all the codes out wth a hand held scanner,41, with is o2 sensor.code 77 ,idle problem.I replaced it.(I got over 300k on it so I don't mind replacing some parts.)no change so far.fuel pressure was 40lbs and hold it for hour or so.4.9's are posed to be between 50 and 60.replaced fuel pressure regulator,40#.still no change.Tried doin a clylinder balance test,scanner would'nt do it because of idle problem.Went to a junk yard and borrowed a throttle body and a map sensor.No change with the throttle body.Put the used map on and Ta daa.The easiest thing to replace but pricey,$109 at autozone.Seems this has been dying for a while.mpg been around 12 for a couple of years now.I'm back up to 16,17 now with no stink or buckin.Never got a map code.I could of borrowed the map off of my 91 now that i know this.This map I got covers a lot of different years.
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From: Piney Point Shores, Md
Originally Posted by High Mileage
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My next cheap step is to pull and replace the factory trailer hookup on the rear since it may be waterlogged and corroded where the wires are terminated to the lugs. Though I really doubt this is a problem since I had my trailer hooked up earlier today and all the signal lights are working properly. But who knows. I think they refer to this nightmare as a floating ground system?
My next cheap step is to pull and replace the factory trailer hookup on the rear since it may be waterlogged and corroded where the wires are terminated to the lugs. Though I really doubt this is a problem since I had my trailer hooked up earlier today and all the signal lights are working properly. But who knows. I think they refer to this nightmare as a floating ground system?
What is indicated with the symptons you are describing is a "bad ground" or "Partial Ground" (High resistance to ground), which could cause a voltage to be applied back into an adjacent circuit. Since you have already ID'ed a likely circuit continue with finding the chasis grounds inspect & clean all of them, check you favorite Shop Manual for the Wiring Diagram and you may find you have a common ground terminal with 3 or more wires attached with 1 that is the problem. A GOOD LOW RANGE multimeter can also aid in the hunt if you are familiar with how to use them.
GOOD LUCK