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I'm still in my planning mode for the 1966 F100, and a few things are pretty clear. I like the fact that the CV front cross member bolts right in. So that is first choice. I have access to a 2005 CV for the cross member. But how about the power steering unit to go with the power rack on the cross member? And what about the power brake booster unit, to match up with the front disc brakes? And a junk yard near me has a 2005 short/stepside box? Would it be much trouble making it fit on the 1966? Comments and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I won't live long enough to make all the mistakes by myself.
I never could figure out why anyone would go to the trouble of swapping the front end on a twin I-beam truck, the twin I-beam is bullet proof and handles fine just the way it was made in 65. When I want to build a truck, I start with a truck, when I want to build a car, I start with a car.
I never could figure out why anyone would go to the trouble of swapping the front end on a twin I-beam truck, the twin I-beam is bullet proof and handles fine just the way it was made in 65. When I want to build a truck, I start with a truck, when I want to build a car, I start with a car.
Agreed, If I had wanted a car/truck I would have got a Ranchero or El Camino. Just seems like a heck of a lot of work for no real gain.
The one that cracked me up was the guy that lowered his truck way down - twin-turbocharged it - took it out auto-crossing and came in last place - behind a stock Pinto and Chevette. That would just be embarrassing.
I suppose it's for the same reason God made blondes, brunettes and redheads. Not everyone likes the same thing and everyone has different tastes of what best suits them.
If a man earns his money and buys a truck to fix up to suit what he wants it to be, who are we to say what's best for them? We have our trucks the way we want them. Why should someone else not also be at liberty to make their's the way they want it to be?
I may not be of the same opinion of parts/changes made on someone else's truck but, I respect the fact that it's their truck, money and time and it's not mine to determine how I think it should be configured.
I'll point out that I do not care what anyone does to their trucks - fine with me - and nobody would care about my opinion anyway. I just think its funny to put that much work into a truck and still get spanked by a Pinto. No skin off my back.
I'll point out that I do not care what anyone does to their trucks - fine with me - and nobody would care about my opinion anyway. I just think its funny to put that much work into a truck and still get spanked by a Pinto. No skin off my back.
Chad
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I suspect that was an isolated incident. The guy evidently didn't have his shi... ....uh.... stuff together with that truck.
This '68 Bumpside runs a CV front suspension, owner-built custom rear suspension with a late model Mustang Coyote 5.0L engine and the late model Mustang manual transmission. He runs this truck on the track and can keep up with late model Corvettes.
I just love how somebody comes on here to ask some advice about something specific and instead a few people feel the urge to puke out some drivel about their own personal views on how trucks should drive. Still nobody has bothered to even acknowledge the OPs question. As has been said, we should each respect that we won't all like the same things. One person's "fun" is another person's "boring". the attitude of some in this forum has undoubtedly ran a few new people off rather than welcoming them to what could be a useful and open-minded forum.
"I am sure I dont have a chance against some of the fast guys in a fast car but it sure was fun."
But, yes, he might be able to keep up with a Pinto, too. Although it was a much shorter track with much tighter corners so you never know until you try.
Sorry, I was born with abnormally large sized funny bones so I find more humor in stuff than some might.
I just love how somebody comes on here to ask some advice about something specific and instead a few people feel the urge to puke out some drivel about their own personal views on how trucks should drive. Still nobody has bothered to even acknowledge the OPs question. As has been said, we should each respect that we won't all like the same things. One person's "fun" is another person's "boring". the attitude of some in this forum has undoubtedly ran a few new people off rather than welcoming them to what could be a useful and open-minded forum.
Calling other peoples opinions "drivel" isn't particularly nice, either.
Calling other peoples opinions "drivel" isn't particularly nice, either.
Chad
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Fair enough, but by definition, it's drivel if it is silly or meaningless nonsense. Which in the context of the question being asked, the comments/opinions were meaningless and silly both.
I'm still in my planning mode for the 1966 F100, and a few things are pretty clear. I like the fact that the CV front cross member bolts right in. So that is first choice. I have access to a 2005 CV for the cross member. But how about the power steering unit to go with the power rack on the cross member? And what about the power brake booster unit, to match up with the front disc brakes? And a junk yard near me has a 2005 short/stepside box? Would it be much trouble making it fit on the 1966? Comments and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I won't live long enough to make all the mistakes by myself.
Welcome to FTE!
I know nothing about your questions, but the swap has been done by others.
I'm not sure how many posts you need to have made on FTE to use the Advanced Search function, but if and when you can, you might find your answers there.
There are currently 81 threads in this forum about the "Crown Vic" swap. Here's a link to them.
Google is your friend! Lots of info out there to answer all your questions. I personally belong to several groups on Facebook that are devoted to making these swaps from what you are doing, to the full chassis/drivetrain swaps ( present company included) As posted above, lots of threads here that can get you lots of info as well. I researched for a few months on various forums before taking on the full chassis swap. I did it all by myself in the matter of a 3 months.
I just love how somebody comes on here to ask some advice about something specific and instead a few people feel the urge to puke out some drivel about their own personal views on how trucks should drive. Still nobody has bothered to even acknowledge the OPs question. As has been said, we should each respect that we won't all like the same things. One person's "fun" is another person's "boring". the attitude of some in this forum has undoubtedly ran a few new people off rather than welcoming them to what could be a useful and open-minded forum.
As far as a brake booster and MC goes for your setup, the '68-'72 F350 dual diaphragm booster and a '95 Explorer 1-1/16" bore MC are a very good combination.
You would need the booster brackets and the hard plastic dust boot from a '68-'72 Bumpside donor --doesn't matter if the booster on the brackets is a single diaphragm unit or a dual diaphragm, the brackets and dust boot are interchangeable between the single or dual diaphragm '68-'72 Bumpside boosters. The donor booster (if still attached to the mounting brackets) can be traded in as a core for a newly rebuilt booster.
This is a '75 F350 dual diaphragm booster and a '95 Explorer MC I installed in my '69 F100 in 2014. The input rod on my booster isn't adjustable (fixed length).
This is a '72 F350 dual diaphragm booster and a '95 Explorer MC I installed in a friend's '72 F100 in 2016. Unlike the booster I put in my truck, this booster has an adjustable input rod.
The NAPA part number for the MC is NMC M3246. (You'll need to bubble flare the tubing at the two MC ports and you'll need one M10 x 1.0 metric bubble flare fitting and one M12 x 1.0 bubble flare fitting. These two fittings can be purchased through Classic Tube --part numbers ST8036 and ST8040, respectively).
The basic part number for the booster is 54-73112. However, just giving this part number at the parts stores could get you a dual diaphragm with an adjustable input rod or, it could also get you one without the adjustable input rod. If you contact Prior Brake Products in Dallas, Texas, and specify you want a '68-'72 F350 dual diaphragm brake booster with an adjustable input rod (rod code "FT8"), they will know what you're talking about to get you the dual diaphragm booster with and adjustable input.
12-05-2017, 10:00 PM
