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It's been sitting here at my house since the oil change. No flat ground to check on after sitting as everything up here is sloped. Tomorrow I have to take my uncle to the city for a medical procedure. It's going to be an all day picnic so I'll be leaving the truck at his house (flat ground) all day. The guy that changed the oil said that he drained a quart out but it's hard to verify because the oil is so clean. When I check it, it looks like there might be oil well above the hash marks, but hard to tell because it might just be residual from the dip stick tube. Tomorrow I'll let it sit all day and if it is only at the top of the hash marks, the above area should then be dry and I can verify the correct level. If it's high, I'll go ahead and get oily and drain some out. I used to only go with 13.5 quarts on changes when I changed it myself, but I started using wallyworld because it's only $8 for labor and I don't have to get rid of the oil. Besides, I don't have to get messy and I don't even have flat ground to work on. Problem is, they will only do what the book says, which is 15 quarts... That's until the guy yesterday, where he swears it's supposed to be 15.9!!! Oh well, I'll be doing it myself from now on, even with the sloped driveway.
That drip can me a reason why a bed plate is removed and resealed.
One way to get around it is to rub just 14 quarts, Helps keep oil in the
pan and not being whipped up or puddling near a joint. This also can help
with some carryover from oil mist into the CAC.
Tim: don't freak out and you can drive it with one qt over (sounds more like a half now). I'm in the 14 qts = middle of the stick range group myself.
When I had my bedplate resealed under warranty they overfilled the crank case. Not a little, a lot. I had put a hundred miles on it romping on it making sure there were no leaks. Then I went and checked the dip stick (should have done that right away in hindsight). I measured what I pulled out and then called the dealership and reported I took out 3.5 quarts to get it to the top line of the dipstick! They offered me a free oil change next time around - yeah, right .
Ford calls for 15qts. If it were me I'd pull some out and get it down to the max at least. 16 is not going to get crankshaft whip, but you might get extra PCV flow (about the worst I can think of, and that even isn't catastrophic).
Use a clean container so you can add some back if you drain too much. Easy Peasy...
WalMart's book can show 15 qt.... prob is when draining there's a couple of qts that stay in the engine.....tell the dummies at Wally World to do as you say...you are the boss!
Not too sure of who Theorized it but long ago 15qts were the cause of some 6.0s to drip at the bell , while some were pulling hair thinking it was a rear main the discovery from the same owner down sized the Qts to 13.5 , I did the same thing and found less drip age , now all bets are out if your making oil ,as that's going to put more that you really want over the 15 Mark , I try to keep it around 13.5 / 14qts for safe play either way .and still have 1 to 11/2 Qts left for the road trip .
I think it 18 for a dry first fill.
And 15 puts you at the top hash mark. 14 seems to be the happy point for me
and it's also an easy amount to aim for when filling with gallon jugs.
BTW my new truck was marked as a bed plat leaker and as soon as I
dropped it down to 14 I have had zero drips on the driveway.
I think it 18 for a dry first fill.
And 15 puts you at the top hash mark. 14 seems to be the happy point for me
and it's also an easy amount to aim for when filling with gallon jugs.
BTW my new truck was marked as a bed plat leaker and as soon as I
dropped it down to 14 I have had zero drips on the driveway.
Thanks for that!
Mine has leaked for as long as I have had it! The OASIS indicated the PO took it in because of a suspected rear seal leak (which they supposedly fixed---NOT)
Next oil change, I think I'll try running a QT+ or so low and observe!
Mine has leaked for as long as I have had it! The OASIS indicated the PO took it in because of a suspected rear seal leak (which they supposedly fixed---NOT)
Next oil change, I think I'll try running a QT+ or so low and observe!
Cheers,
Rick
It's likely that they did the seal and missed the problem. The Bed plate seal.
The old truck had the bed plate done and I could run it at the full refill
level. The new truck had a "leak" fixed with a rear main seal and it was
listed in the check list as a leaking bed plate. So I changed the oil and
filled in one quart short and no leak in the time I have had it.
On your next oil change replace the drain plug with a "Fumoto" drain plug upgrade. Never a messy oil change after that. With a clean tarp on the ground, I can change my oil or remove some in a white cuffed shirt without a oil mark on it.
On your next oil change replace the drain plug with a "Fumoto" drain plug upgrade. Never a messy oil change after that. With a clean tarp on the ground, I can change my oil or remove some in a white cuffed shirt without a oil mark on it.
And no more magnet to give you a heads up that you have problems brewing.
From the top to the bottom of the hash marks on the stick actually represents two quarts. I try to keep mine near the center of the hashmark area, low enough to reduce drips at the bed plate. I always have a drop hanging but no spots in the driveway, and easy to see it rising if it starts getting fuel in the crankcase (making oil). Right about 14quarts on a normal oil change.
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