Engine shut off while driving
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Joined: Nov 2017
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Engine shut off while driving
So I'm new to the forum, if there's a different place to post this please let me know.
I have a 78 f-150 with a 302. I was driving down the highway when my engine decided to shut down. I was able to pull over did a general look around and didn't find anything. I started it back up and made it another 20 mins, just before I got home when it did it again.
Different anyone have any idea what could make the engine just shut off? The only thing I can think of right now is maybe the fuel pump?
Thanks in advance
I have a 78 f-150 with a 302. I was driving down the highway when my engine decided to shut down. I was able to pull over did a general look around and didn't find anything. I started it back up and made it another 20 mins, just before I got home when it did it again.
Different anyone have any idea what could make the engine just shut off? The only thing I can think of right now is maybe the fuel pump?
Thanks in advance
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New User
Joined: Nov 2017
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Thanks, and thanks for the sticky that you posted a while ago, there are several things in there that I'll probably be trying.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Kennesaw, Ga
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
The modules used in the 1970's (5 different types) were so unreliable, that Ford techs referred to DuraSpark as NeverSpark!
The 3 step scenario of a failing DuraSpark ignition module:
1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts almost at once.
2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts in an hour...or so.
3) Sooner or later, usually sooner, the module overheats, BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not restart.
Taking the module to an auto parts store to be tested: Will test OK unless the little charmer has burned out.
Module located on the left fender inner apron, just in front of the firewall.
Engine heat, especially radiating from the V8's red hot left exhaust manifold, is the mortal enemy of these modules.
When replacing, use some washers to space it further away from the apron, the more airflow, the better.
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 638
Likes: 36
From: Southwest Missouri
I had the same happen to me last year. Wasn't getting any spark. When I flipped over the ignition box (original motorcraft) the potting had that dried out chalky feel that rubber gets from age/heat. The rest of the ignition looked just about as old, so I replaced the distributor (cardone reman unit), coil and wires for good measure. I think I spent about $150 for everything. I will probably use upgraded components down the road, but for now the cheap stuff had me up and running in an afternoon.
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New User
Joined: Nov 2017
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I had the same happen to me last year. Wasn't getting any spark. When I flipped over the ignition box (original motorcraft) the potting had that dried out chalky feel that rubber gets from age/heat. The rest of the ignition looked just about as old, so I replaced the distributor (cardone reman unit), coil and wires for good measure. I think I spent about $150 for everything. I will probably use upgraded components down the road, but for now the cheap stuff had me up and running in an afternoon.
Overheating was a common problem on DuraSpark ignition modules, whether they were new or old.
The modules used in the 1970's (5 different types) were so unreliable, that Ford techs referred to DuraSpark as NeverSpark!
The 3 step scenario of a failing DuraSpark ignition module:
1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts almost at once.
2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts in an hour...or so.
3) Sooner or later, usually sooner, the module overheats, BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not restart.
Taking the module to an auto parts store to be tested: Will test OK unless the little charmer has burned out.
Module located on the left fender inner apron, just in front of the firewall.
Engine heat, especially radiating from the V8's red hot left exhaust manifold, is the mortal enemy of these modules.
When replacing, use some washers to space it further away from the apron, the more airflow, the better.
The modules used in the 1970's (5 different types) were so unreliable, that Ford techs referred to DuraSpark as NeverSpark!
The 3 step scenario of a failing DuraSpark ignition module:
1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts almost at once.
2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts in an hour...or so.
3) Sooner or later, usually sooner, the module overheats, BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not restart.
Taking the module to an auto parts store to be tested: Will test OK unless the little charmer has burned out.
Module located on the left fender inner apron, just in front of the firewall.
Engine heat, especially radiating from the V8's red hot left exhaust manifold, is the mortal enemy of these modules.
When replacing, use some washers to space it further away from the apron, the more airflow, the better.
Thanks guys, I'll be working on this tomorrow and will let you know what happens!🍺🍻
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 855
Likes: 56
From: Des Moines, Washington
Mine died while idling in the driveway then restarted after it had cooled a bit so I replaced the DuraSpark module. Next day it wouldn't restart after getting a new battery installed. Replaced the pickup in the distributor and now it seems to run better then it ever did.
Michael
Michael
