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Old Nov 28, 2017 | 06:30 PM
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turbo install

I have a 90 idi I am starting to put a turbo on. I bought a complete 93 motor(minus injectors) with factory turbo. Was wondering if the injectors in my 90 are the same as a factory turbo engine. Any other tips to make this easier for myself?
 
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Old Nov 28, 2017 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by rames489
I have a 90 idi I am starting to put a turbo on. I bought a complete 93 motor(minus injectors) with factory turbo. Was wondering if the injectors in my 90 are the same as a factory turbo engine. Any other tips to make this easier for myself?
Not "the same" by part number, but they are "the same" in that they will fit perfectly and work just fine.
Go for it, either way you go it'll work fine.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2017 | 10:50 AM
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What about a injection pump? Can the non turbo pump by turned up?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2017 | 11:15 AM
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The NA IP can work just fine. Just install the turbo kit, then start it up. Drive it around and see how it performs. If the EGT's are low and the boost low, then turn up the fuel screw a flat. Then drive it around and check the EGT's and boost. If low, repeat. It should be running good around +1.5 flats or slightly more, depending on various factors.

If there is a bunch of black smoke or you are exceeding 1200 deg F EGT's under load, you turned it up too much.

Doing the timing might be a good thing to do too. Timing can affect how your turbo spools. Do you have access to a timing gun and ferret meter?
 
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Old Dec 2, 2017 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by genscripter
The NA IP can work just fine. Just install the turbo kit, then start it up. Drive it around and see how it performs. If the EGT's are low and the boost low, then turn up the fuel screw a flat. Then drive it around and check the EGT's and boost. If low, repeat. It should be running good around +1.5 flats or slightly more, depending on various factors.
Make sure to remove the "torque screw" if the pump has one... or your fuel screw adjustments will do nothing, because the fuel is being limited by that and not the fuel screw.
And yeah, a NA pump is fine. I've gotten more HP out of a 6.9 pump cranked up than most push through their turbo 7.3's, so it's usually not a problem until you get into "performance" power levels.
Originally Posted by genscripter
If there is a bunch of black smoke or you are exceeding 1200 deg F EGT's under load, you turned it up too much.
Be aware that on a turbo diesel, how much fuel the engine can burn varies with boost.
At idle, you have no boost, so if you give it a bunch of fuel, you get smoke.
At 2500 RPM and 10 PSI of boost, the engine can cleanly burn everything that IP could put out, with the fuel screw totally maxed etc(assuming correct timing, no boost/exhaust leaks etc).
So, you either tune it for no smoke at lower RPM(in which case you lose out on high end power), or tune it for no smoke at high RPM/boost(in which case you have to be careful driving it around off idle to make sure you don't give it too much throttle, or you will create smoke).

Originally Posted by genscripter
Doing the timing might be a good thing to do too. Timing can affect how your turbo spools. Do you have access to a timing gun and ferret meter?
Timing is a *big* deal. Most every IDI I come across has issues with timing; If you crank the pump and start seeing blue, gray or white smoke under hard acceleration, that's a sign of significantly retarded timing.
Black smoke is what you want to see when pushing too much fuel without the boost to clean it up.

EGTs are also affected in both cases - retarded timing means the IP adds more fuel to maintain the same engine output, resulting in low power and lower fuel economy.
Advanced timing(too far) results in a lot of clatter, lower power and lower fuel economy as the engine is literally fighting itself, with the fuel burning "too early" for efficient combustion.

I do my own timing tuning 'by ear' driving it and seeing what it does and then adjust. What feels the strongest power wise, with no blue/gray/white smoke is going to be good for economy and lower EGTs as well.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2017 | 11:56 PM
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Another thing to mention (to reduce EGT's) is to redo the exhaust. Prior to installing my high-flow muffler and larger diameter exhaust pipes, I was getting 1100+ deg F EGT temps. Afterwards, I barely exceeded 850 deg F EGT's.

but my boost didn't see much of an increase from the high-flow exhaust. But lower EGT's is better peace of mind.
 
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