I have a 82 f150, 2wd, 302, 5.0L

I am trying to set the timing. It is currently not running and i believe its because my timing was so far off.
Im using a piston stop tool. Got it off summit racing. It says it fits most Chevy v8 and v6.
(I didnt realize it at the time of purchase)

Could the chevy piston stop work for my ford v8 engine?
Also when I'm using it trying to find true tdc. I get different readings.
The pistons will stop in one spot of my balancer ill hook everything up and try to start it and it doesnt start so i try to adjust my timing again and when i try to find tdc its not the same marks i originally made.

Im lost, never done this before and im probably causing more harm then good to this engine...


Please help!!
Locals appreciated!!
-Omaha

 

The piston stop should work regardless. Generally they are used with a degree wheel. See video on how to do it.
You may be able to do a similar thing with the balancer timing marks.

 

Can use a mechanic's vacuum gauge to set ignition timing, to at least get you very close to optimum. Advance distributor slowly at factory idle RPM for maximum steady smooth vacuum indicated on the dial, as the ignition timing is advanced the the engine RPM will increase. Back off about 1/2" to 1" from the maximum vacuum achieved. For example if the maximum was 18" set it back to 17" and lock the holdown bolt.

 

The piston stop is used to find 0 top dead center for #1 cylinder. As long as you install the stop in #1 cylinder, and then gently turn the engine and it stops and won't turn anymore, it will work.

I will go over how you are supposed to use it just in case. You install the stop in #1, turn the engine gently till it stops. Make a mark on the damper where the pointer is located. Then turn the engine the other way gently till it stops, make another mark on the damper where the pointer is located.

You then measure between these marks, divide by two, that is 0 tdc #1. If everything is going like it should, your new zero mark should be the same or very very close to the factory mark on the damper. That is mainly what the piston stop is all about, confirming the factory damper marks are good.

If they are good, then you can use them. If they are way off, then your damper has slipped(very common thing to happen) and you can get a new damper(recommended) or you can buy a timing tape and stick it on the damper in the correct place to correct the marks.

Hopefully your damper is good or you get a new one. After this you have found tdc of #1, but just that the piston is at the top. That does not necessarily mean that is the firing position. Take your timing stop out, hold your thumb over the sparkplug hole of #1 while someone turns the engine. As the 0 mark comes around, if air in the cylinder is trying to push your thumb off the hole, that is good, go ahead and stop on 0. If it's not trying to push your thumb off the hole, get the person to keep turning the engine past 0 all the way around till it comes up again. This time it should be pushing your thumb off the hole, so stop at 0.

Then go ahead and turn it a little bit more till the pointer is around 10 BTDC. Leave the engine there. Take the dist cap off. The rotor underneath should be pointing to the spot on the cap where #1 wire is plugged into the cap. If it's not, pull the dist and re-orient the rotor and put the dist back in till the rotor is pointing to #1 wire. It should try to start.

 

That will work once he gets it running thing is he cant get it running.

Well done Dave if it does not start then he will have to dig deeper.
Dave ----

 

Thanks everyone!
Ill give that a shot Dave.

In this book i have it says to set it at 8° btc.
So if i set it at 8 and it still doesnt start. Should i try starting it at 0°?
If it doesnt start on 0, Could it be a bent valve?
How do you tell if the valves are bent without removing the heads?

 

The engine should start with a bent valve. It won't sound healthy but, assuming no other problems, the engine should run.

But I doubt that's the problem.

If it doesn't at least try to start at 8° or 10° BTDC, setting it to 0 won't make it any better, something is still wrong someplace.

 

Careful not to flood engine, gas-soak the spark plugs etc.

Is there a fat bluish spark at the coil wire and plugs?

 

When plugging the vacuum advance do you plug the hose coming off the canister?
I cant reach where it attaches to my carb. So thats what ive been doing. I did have a screw but lost it so i just pack a shop towel in the hose.

Good enough?

 

No, the idea is to plug the port at the carburetor or vacuum source so there aren't any leaks. The distributor itself doesn't draw any air.

 

Forget the vacuum advance on the distributor for now. It will just confuse the situation, just make sure there are no vacuum leaks and leave it off. You should not have it plugged in anyway when checking the timing with a light, or even trying to time it by ear. Just leave it off for now till you get it running and set the timing with a light.

 

I assumed that's what he was asking about, he knows the vacuum advance should be disconnected and plugged, his question was (I think) whether the vacuum advance "sucks air" too, so to speak.