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for the suspention id suggest good shocks and anti-sway bars (if yours didnt already come with bars, many do) performance depends alot on what you have to work with, i think one of the best "bang for the buck" things you can do is change your rear gearing, and rather than buy new parts and the setup tools you need, you could just get a used assembly from a junkyard with the ratio you want. i had 3.45's, was a bit sluggish and towing anything would have been difficult. was hoping to find at least a 4.10 but would have got a 3.73. did find (2) 4.10 axles, chose the newer axle of the 2, it also had less miles on it. 200$ for the axle, spent maybe 20$ for new seals/oil, made new brake lines to go to the wheel cylinders (also new) the performance is incredible. downsides: well my speedometer is off, i went from 225/14s to 235/15s (which is a bigger tire) and to go 55 my indicated speed is about 63. and i cant check milage due to speedometer being off but its most likely dropped some, im sure im still getting above 20. havent towed much, just a ranger bed trailer with a stove and fridge, but it did it fine with no issues. the big test will be with my 6x10 box trailer, its like dragging a parachute! the coil helpers are there because this ranger has fiberglass leaf springs, not much load capacity but they ride good, the helper springs dont touch the frame, but as the suspention compresses under load, they come into play then, takes about 250 pounds.
since speed costs money, how fast can you afford to go?
what do you want your truck to do?
haul a refrigerator, or just a cooler of beer?
in the money is no object column, the 2.3 ECOboost 4 cylinder in the new Mustangs can easily crank out over 300 hp, and that's with a super light weight aluminum block.
in the money is kinda tight column, gears, stiff shocks and low profile tires coupled with plenty of ricer decals may suffice.
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