I'm seeking information about replacing the motor/pump only on the sending unit. After 16 years and almost 230,000 miles it is starting to fail. The truck is a '01 F250 V10, US emissions. I'm looking at a Delphi FE0485 pump.

So far I've searched but have not been able to find specific instructions about doing this, just one post on a thread where the member reported changing the worn pump with the Delphi unit "wasn't too bad."

Has anyone done this who can shed some light on the process? I'm trying to decide whether to order the pump only or the complete unit. I'm pretty confident the job is well within my abilities, but wonder about sealing the unit, etc.

Thanks in advance!

 

I would prefer to change the whole assembly, everything else in there is also 16 years old...

 

That is definitely one of the considerations I'm making, along with not wanting to do the job twice!

That said, the gauge still works well, and the complete unit costs four times as much as the pump alone.

 

I'm bumping this thread to report that I did just change the pump and screens. In the end, I decided I had more time than money for this project. I found replacing the motor/pump in the sending unit really "wasn't all that bad."

My truck is a late 01. It has the plastic 38 gallon tank mounted amidships. Mine is a gasser, a V10, but from the pictures Guzzle provided of his diesel project the tanks and lines are very similar.

I used several of the threads on this forum for instructions dropping and replacing the tank and the fuel sender unit. Perhaps the two most useful suggestions were to use straps to raise and lower the tank, and warming the locking ring that holds the sender in place when it is reinstalled. Thanks to all who shared!

Since there is sufficient information about the rest of the project, I will just describe replacing the motor and filters. The whole process was surprisingly simple, but it requires a gentle hand and some patience. Of course, you need to use all the caution appropriate when working with a flammable liquid!

Once the sending unit was out of the tank, I drained it by inverting and tipping it to let the fuel out. I did this several times and still found a little fuel in it when I took it apart.

The unit is easy to disassemble. A standard automotive connector is unplugged from the pump motor. Then I removed the pressure line by removing the two small screws that secure it to the top with a 4.5 mm socket, pulling it straight up off the unit. I used a magnetic parts bowl to keep track of those dink screws, they don't look like something that would be easy to replace! Pay attention to how little torque it takes to loosen them! Three more of the same screws hold the top on the canister. Once the top is off, the pump just lifts out. Note its location and alignment before you take it out. It only fits one way and you will save some time if you do.

Two soft rubber or plastic isolators are supplied that slip on each end of the pump (the old one only had one on the bottom.) It also comes with two screens. Install the bottom isolator so it matches the old unit. Be sure to install it before you install the screen! Then just push the smaller screen on the pump inlet and hold it in place with the small clip provided. I used a 5 mm socket to press it in place. The top isolator is symmetrical and just slips over the end of the pump.

I cleaned the canister with aerosol carb cleaner and wiped it gently with a soft rag, useing a small screwdriver to work the rag into the tighter spots. Then I inserted the pump and replaced the top and the pressure line and secure them with the screws. NOTE: those screws are very small. Do NOT over tighten them--they obviously will break with very little effort. Invert the sending unit and replace the outer (larger) screen. Mine was retained with a small nylon clip which I released with needle-nosed pliers. Be careful here, the clip is small and molded into the base. I found it helpful to gently pry the screen off the pickup before I released the clip.

The last step was to replace the wiring connector. It just snaps into the socket on the motor.

From here, the assembly is the same as if you replaced the entire unit so just use the posts previously mentioned for that information.

 

Superb write-up, SDSC.

— Dave

 

SDAC4X4: Can you shed any light on how to remove the sender from the tank?? It's somehow fastened to the bottom of the tanks by I can't figure out how, and thus can't remove it. Any assistance appreciated!

 

Funny you should ask today! The fuel pump in my Mustang just failed and I caught this YouTube video verifying the process was essentially the same, I think what you are looking for is shown at about the five minute mark. Just pick up there... The sender unit looks to be exactly the same, except the float rod may be slightly different due to the shape of the tanks.


Not sure why that didn't paste as a link. You may have to copy and paste to your browser.