1985 f250 38 gallon rear fuel tank project
#16
I have that tank sitting in my chassis (since roughly 2010 as some of you know). I can’t recall how I came to it but I figured out a vent valve from a newer Jeep was the same so it cost me like less than $10
because I bought two. I will try finding the spare or looking in my resto log book for a part number tonight.
because I bought two. I will try finding the spare or looking in my resto log book for a part number tonight.
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#18
I have that tank sitting in my chassis (since roughly 2010 as some of you know). I can’t recall how I came to it but I figured out a vent valve from a newer Jeep was the same so it cost me like less than $10
because I bought two. I will try finding the spare or looking in my resto log book for a part number tonight.
because I bought two. I will try finding the spare or looking in my resto log book for a part number tonight.
Hi displacement4me, i did some internet diggin and found the "fuel tank vapor vent gromit" parts number F6TZ 9B076-AA. Thanks for your time.
#19
A Fuel tank vapor vent W/ gromit F6TZ 9B076-AA
A Fuel tank vapor vent W/ gromit F6TZ 9B076-AA
thanks for your time.
#20
38 gallon rear tank degressed and clean. Por15 drying now. Painting the tank in 2 parts above and below the seam of the tank.
First painting the bottom of the tank with 2 coats, then the top 2 coats, then going to hang the tank from one of the holes and a final last coat.
i will get pictures of the tank when done. Also i got the sending unit modification done. I used compression fittings and heavy break line tubing to extend (11" from top plate to the flap valve at the bottom.) the return line were the float is attached too. Also extended (13" from top plate to the pick up.) the fuel pick up. I will get pictures of that too.
#24
Jon, do you plan on doing the fast fill vent mod to the tanks? I've read quite a bit about this recently, but we all like pics and feedback on common mods for our trucks. I think this would be necessary for that 38 gallon tank. Check it out!
https://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/94...ltankvent.php3
https://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/94...ltankvent.php3
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#25
Jon, do you plan on doing the fast fill vent mod to the tanks? I've read quite a bit about this recently, but we all like pics and feedback on common mods for our trucks. I think this would be necessary for that 38 gallon tank. Check it out!
https://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/94...ltankvent.php3
https://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/94...ltankvent.php3
Hi Olds64,
good information!! If i would have know earlier i would have planned to include this filler modification. Thanks for posting. If i have to pull the tank for any reason i will include this modification thanks.
#26
Jon, do you plan on doing the fast fill vent mod to the tanks? I've read quite a bit about this recently, but we all like pics and feedback on common mods for our trucks. I think this would be necessary for that 38 gallon tank. Check it out!
https://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/94...ltankvent.php3
https://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/94...ltankvent.php3
I don't know why he did all that modification to the filler neck and pulled the guts out of it. I did my own mod, and I left the filler neck alone. The main problem is diesel fuel foams so bad. The original filler neck has a pipe within a pipe, one pipe gets rid of the air, the other pipe directs the fuel into the tank from the station pump, the pipe within a pipe is supposed to keep the air separated from the fuel. Diesel foams so bad that is gets up in and clogs the air pipe function if you fill it too fast.
My mod is sort of related to the link, except I did not modify the filler neck in any way. All I did was modify the roll-over valve. I actually took my roll-over valve out. You can take it out, or modify it like he did for more air flow, it's your choice.
I then ran a large hose off the roll-over valve like he did (but without the valve in place, just a elbow fitting in the grommet), but instead of hooking it to the filler neck, I ran it very high up in the cavity between the inside and outside bed area, looped it back down and then put a screen over the end to keep the bugs out. I tied it up with a piece of wire.
What this does is give the air trying to leave the tank another place to get out of the tank. Since a large portion of the air can now leave through the top and the roll-over valve, the foam has more of a tendency to be over there and not in the filler pipe area.
I can say for sure I am pleased with this modification, I can fill much faster. The only thing I have noticed that happens each time I let the diesel fill to the top till the pump nozzle cuts off automatically, I will get a little foam puke out of my new vent hose. Happens each time I do it, no matter what station and how the truck is sitting. It puts a little spot of foam/fuel on the ground, and that's it.
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#27
Thanks for the info Dave. I was actually concerned about Diesel Jim's comment at the end of the article. I dropped one of my tanks recently for restoration and I was considering this mod or one similar.
You mentioned you left your fuel filler neck alone. So, you didn't remove the inner pipe from the filler neck?
Here's another thread about modifying the fuel filler neck.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...solutions.html
Sorry about the hijack.
You mentioned you left your fuel filler neck alone. So, you didn't remove the inner pipe from the filler neck?
Here's another thread about modifying the fuel filler neck.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...solutions.html
Sorry about the hijack.
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#28
That article is not very impressive, a lot of work for not much gain, he even admits that at the end of the article.
I don't know why he did all that modification to the filler neck and pulled the guts out of it. I did my own mod, and I left the filler neck alone. The main problem is diesel fuel foams so bad. The original filler neck has a pipe within a pipe, one pipe gets rid of the air, the other pipe directs the fuel into the tank from the station pump, the pipe within a pipe is supposed to keep the air separated from the fuel. Diesel foams so bad that is gets up in and clogs the air pipe function if you fill it too fast.
My mod is sort of related to the link, except I did not modify the filler neck in any way. All I did was modify the roll-over valve. I actually took my roll-over valve out. You can take it out, or modify it like he did for more air flow, it's your choice.
I then ran a large hose off the roll-over valve like he did (but without the valve in place, just a elbow fitting in the grommet), but instead of hooking it to the filler neck, I ran it very high up in the cavity between the inside and outside bed area, looped it back down and then put a screen over the end to keep the bugs out. I tied it up with a piece of wire.
What this does is give the air trying to leave the tank another place to get out of the tank. Since a large portion of the air can now leave through the top and the roll-over valve, the foam has more of a tendency to be over there and not in the filler pipe area.
I can say for sure I am pleased with this modification, I can fill much faster. The only thing I have noticed that happens each time I let the diesel fill to the top till the pump nozzle cuts off automatically, I will get a little foam puke out of my new vent hose. Happens each time I do it, no matter what station and how the truck is sitting. It puts a little spot of foam/fuel on the ground, and that's it.
I don't know why he did all that modification to the filler neck and pulled the guts out of it. I did my own mod, and I left the filler neck alone. The main problem is diesel fuel foams so bad. The original filler neck has a pipe within a pipe, one pipe gets rid of the air, the other pipe directs the fuel into the tank from the station pump, the pipe within a pipe is supposed to keep the air separated from the fuel. Diesel foams so bad that is gets up in and clogs the air pipe function if you fill it too fast.
My mod is sort of related to the link, except I did not modify the filler neck in any way. All I did was modify the roll-over valve. I actually took my roll-over valve out. You can take it out, or modify it like he did for more air flow, it's your choice.
I then ran a large hose off the roll-over valve like he did (but without the valve in place, just a elbow fitting in the grommet), but instead of hooking it to the filler neck, I ran it very high up in the cavity between the inside and outside bed area, looped it back down and then put a screen over the end to keep the bugs out. I tied it up with a piece of wire.
What this does is give the air trying to leave the tank another place to get out of the tank. Since a large portion of the air can now leave through the top and the roll-over valve, the foam has more of a tendency to be over there and not in the filler pipe area.
I can say for sure I am pleased with this modification, I can fill much faster. The only thing I have noticed that happens each time I let the diesel fill to the top till the pump nozzle cuts off automatically, I will get a little foam puke out of my new vent hose. Happens each time I do it, no matter what station and how the truck is sitting. It puts a little spot of foam/fuel on the ground, and that's it.
i think my rear tank was original diesel the tank and the sending unit looked like it was dipped in acid. I am going to stick with the stock fuel fill set up for now. Just to far along for me to turn back. Thanks for the information.
#29
Thanks for the info Dave. I was actually concerned about Diesel Jim's comment at the end of the article. I dropped one of my tanks recently for restoration and I was considering this mod or one similar.
You mentioned you left your fuel filler neck alone. So, you didn't remove the inner pipe from the filler neck?
Here's another thread about modifying the fuel filler neck.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...solutions.html
Sorry about the hijack.
You mentioned you left your fuel filler neck alone. So, you didn't remove the inner pipe from the filler neck?
Here's another thread about modifying the fuel filler neck.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...solutions.html
Sorry about the hijack.
P.S. I remember also, there is very very little room from the top of the rear tank to the truck bed. When I took the roll-over valve out, I used a copper elbow and short piece of hard copper, the copper elbow fit exactly right into the roll-over grommet. The short piece of copper attached to it brought me over across the top of the tank and then I put the hose and a hose clamp on it. Even this setup is smashed against the bottom of the bed in this area. The front tank has plenty of room though.
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#30
More of the same
Por15 below the seam.
Business side
The top
Ol'blue tank squeeky clean.
Sending unit F26D modification
got the tank and skid plate por15'ed used obe pint and had enough left to paint the drop kit. Still had enough left to put a extra coat on either the entire skid plate or another 38 gallon rear fuel tank but didn't.