Well my compressor died yesterday... it's a Quincy 310 and 1960s vintage.. the check valve crapped out... spent most of the day disassemblling and finding a replacement... It was a 2 dollar washer... that of course isn't available so you replace the 20 dollar valve... nothing last anymore...

 

You cab buy sheet rubber Viton Buna N ect in 3/16" thick then you can just make your own seal/gasket. Since this is check valve you want a higher durometer material. Give these guys a try
Equalseal: Shop Online for Rubber, Gaskets, Textiles and Braided Packing

 

Amazing plastic lasted that long in that service!

 

It doesn't look much different than a faucet washer, in the plumbing section of your hardware store...

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q...hers&FORM=IGRE

 

We had that type of check valve that came on our starting air compressors and they were notorious for that seal failure. Changed them out to a ball check type, no more problems.

 

You could have my problem. It happened twice. My father-in-law bought a used John Deere combine some years back. My wife calls me at work on a Friday morning about five years and asked me to come home to fix the combine, her dad was in the middle of harvesting and the hydraulic system went out. I go home, dig a bunch of shaft and dirt out of the compartment when I traced the hydraulic leak to. I find a simple 5/16" metal line running into a simple T fitting cracked and leaking. No problem, I go to the auto parts store and get a length of 5/16" brake line and a new T fitting. Get back, the line fits fine but the fitting is metric. OK, a pain but I'll go to the closest John Deere dealer and get a T fitting. They don't have one. The dealer tells me that model combine was built in Germany and he knows of only one other in the entire state. I go to the next John Deere dealer 30 miles away because they tell me one of their service guys have the fitting on his truck. I go there and they don't have it. By now it was past 5:00 and no one was open. Saturday morning I start out early and go to a John Deere dealer that sells new construction equipment. He doesn't have it but suggests a local hydraulic hose dealer. I go there and there's one guy there and he tells me he usually isn't there on a Saturday but had to come in to do some paperwork. He checks his inventory, finds one and gives it to me for free, says the paperwork cost more to complete than the part cost. So, the harvesting of the crop was delayed over a $5 part.

Last Friday, same combine. My wife tells me my son has a broken hydraulic line for the steering cylinder and my son spent the day tracking down a place to build one, again, metric hydraulic lines. It was too late Friday when he found a place so Saturday morning I take the two hoses down to the place and give them to guy behind the counter. He comes back with matching, but different fittings. He tells me he wasn't sure if the fittings he had would seal with the fitting on the combine because his fittings were standard metric and the hoses I had were German metric. I thought there was only one metric system because that's why it's so superior than our system. He informed me there an English metric fitting, a German metric fitting, a much less used Italian and also a Japanese metric fitting. He made the hoses and my son got them to fit. What a PIA!

 

You know what would work is using a valve seat. They come in different material. If you send me the width, depth plus the center hole size, I will see if I have one

 

There is not really a German UK or Japanese metric threads.

Thread pitches in meteric bolts are measured in threads per MM (millimeter)

They like imperial bolts just have a course and fine pitch except for Bolts 7MM and below they only have one thread pitch.

Where the confusion starts is in 10MM and 12MM bolts as there are 3 thread pitches for those sizes. Standard, Fine , and Super fine.

10MM bolts can be either 1.0 (one thread per MM or super fine) 1.25 (1.25 threads per MM or fine ) or 1.5 (1.5 threads per MM or standard)

12MM bolts will be either 1.25 (super fine) 1.5 (Fine) or 1.75 (Standard)


The JIS (Japanese Industrial Standards) use only one thread pitch per bolt size. All Japanese built/engineered equipment will use JIS sized fasteners.

Where as the the Germans the UK and every where else will use all pitches depending on the applications clamping requirements.

There are no variations on metric fasteners with only one thread profile unlike Imperial/SAE that have multiple thread profiles there few to no proprietary fastener sizes thread pitches or profiles in metric fasteners unlike Imperial/SAE where they number in the thousands.

Metric is much much simpler once you understand it. As there is no question about thread profiles No oddball BA, Whitworth, only one pipe thread unlike Imperial that has several NPT BPT ect ect.

But even with those complications I personally still prefer Imperial/SAE sized fasteners as they can be more accurately sized to the applications..
Americans for the most part do not encounter much of the odd ball british Imperial/SAE sized stuff but here in Canada we sure do, this is most common in equipment built prior to 1965.

Below is chart of the Metric bolt sizes and thread pitches.

If you do any amount of work on metric equipment it is well worth investing in a metric thread gauge like I have . See bottom pic.

 

This will give you an idea of what im talking about. They call it the compression washer. On older valves they are thicker. The washer screw like what you have is what holds it on.

 

Matt, the metric issue I encountered was with the threads of the fittings, I guess, it was the connection section, the parts where the male and female part of the fitting mate up. The fitting counter guy showed me his fitting and it was slightly different than the fitting that was on the combine. That must have been the area he was saying was different between the different countries. Fortunately my son was able to make it fit. He may not have got it to fit properly because like his grandfather, he tends to butcher mechanical repairs to make them fit and they don't always last. I wasn't there when he installed the hoses.

 

Where things get funky is in the taper seal/seat as it can vary as there are few different variations from standard metric on the Japanese side such as Komatsu,Toyota seats.

 

Matt, that's the area I'm talking about.

 

Ya it can make your head spin for sure.

Many manufacturers besides Komatsu and Toyota use their style of fittings on equipment just like many non UK companies used British Standard fittings,

Also some Japanese companies use the 30° JIS, the 30° Komatsu and the 24° DIN metric fittings on the same piece of kit.
I've come across this once or twice and frustrating does not even begin to describe the cluster it causes.

All the Japanese fittings are 30° taper seats just the length and diameter of the taper varies.

A good rule of thumb is if it is European built it will use the 24° DIN (Deutsches Institut für Normung / German Institute for Standardization) metric fittings.

If it is Japanese it can could be JIS, Komatsu or Toyota metric or even DIN metric.

Most all Post Korean War North American (Canada/US) equipment will be either be the 37° JIC/AN or SAE 45°.

Pre Korean war Canadian equipment can be either BSPP , JIC/AN or SAE 45° sometimes with all 3 used on one piece of equipment. This in part to the large number of British engineers we had here especially post WWII that insisted on using British Standard fittings and fasteners.

It is sort of like the myriad of hydraulic quick couplers on the market ISO, Pioneer, AG ect ect .

It sure makes things difficult when you need that $2 fitting in a pinch. Tech's learned real fast to keep a large assortment of to and from adapters in their service trucks rather than be in the middle of no where and have a piece of equipment down for the lack of a $2 fitting.

 

As a kid I lived in Cincinnati and my Dad worked (37 years) for Powell Valve Co...they were the number 1 competitor of Oppenheimer (OPW) who made your valve. In those days virtually every gas pump nozzle was made by one of these two companies. Dad never threw anything away that could be used at a later date, and he had boxes of washers, brass screws (straight slot of course), and other bits and pieces that look like the parts in your photo. I will take a look to see what I have left of his stuff and if it is still usable. One thing that I do recall about many of those old valve seals is that they were cut from leather. He had a box of washer cutters, many home made, for cutting washers from leather and in some cases rubber (old tire inner tubes mostly).

 

If you're like most of us I'll bet your tank hasn't been hydro-tested since new. One of my customers fired up a used 10 gallon compressor that was given to him. He was about 15' away when the bottom of the tank ruptured. A year later he was still limping. Lucky he didn't lose his leg...