Hi All,

Long story short (sort of), I have a 2WD 1976 F-250 Camper Special sold new in Ca with the factory 390 4v, NP435, and an 8000# GVW . Truck left the state, where a family member "pitched" all of the smog/emissions stuff. I now have the truck and and am in the process of getting it back on the road after sitting in my driveway (in Ca) for 8 years. Been in the family since new. Not a full restoration, but pretty much a mechanical restoration. (brakes, fuel, driveline, etc.)
Motor is out and being rebuilt now.....

I have collected what I think is most or all of the emissions related equipment I need, but am looking for input as to what goes where. Shop manual seems to show only "typical" set up and wasn't a ton of help. (Been trying to set up an appt. with smog tech, to see what is needed for visual) Family member did try to save the emissions sticker (stuck to outside cover of owners manual, but it is nearly impossible to read, since a lot of the letters were rendered unreadable when the sticker was removed)

Truck came from the factory with: vapor canister, EGR Spacer Plate, smog pump, thermactor tubes that go into the heads, and I am assuming all of the stuff that goes with along with that, but no catalytic converter. I also have the original Holley 4V carb that came with it, newly restored but converted to electric choke.

I got the air/smog pump, brackets, hoses, gulp valve, and everything I could grab from an early 70s 360 2v Ca truck at the junk yard, and the EGR plate from an obsolete supplier. Also have an assortment of vacuum switches that were purchased by the family member prior to giving up on the whole emissions thing and pitching the equipment. (maybe I can use them, maybe not)

I labeled the pics to try and make communication clear (see below) but here is what I think I know : ) Any input is appreciated .....and it would be especially awesome if someone had a picture/diagram of a Ca 390 4v with all of the emissions stuff intact.

2 Goes to smog pump ...I got that one : )
3a/3b Goes to check valves on thermactor tubes (1a/1b)
4 ?
5 ?
6 ? blocked off so maybe one of the vacuum switches? color? what plugs into it?
7 ? was going to heater core
8 ? vacuum switch? color? what plugs into it?
9 ? blocked off
10 ? blocked off now, but? (hard to see cause I taped it up to paint it)

What do you think?
Thanks again and sorry for the long post.



Smog Snake



Not sure which tube goes on driver/passenger side











vacuum switches and smog #s

 

Don't ask for the other pics, because there aren't any for 1975/76. I could give you 1973 or 1974, but that's it.

On the charcoal canister, a hose goes from the valve to an elbow on the air cleaner.

The 360/390 T/E tubes are right and left specific and 1975/76 specific.

 

I have a used Chiltons Emissions Guide from a smog shop here in California, it may help. N

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l-systems.html

 

I have a '78 F100 with a 351m. I can try to get you worked out on some of the vacuum routing, as it makes sense that it would be similar. Do you have the original carb with smog vac?
Mine is all routed properly and emissions equipped

 

Does #4 run straight to the Diverter Valve? Or does it pass through that round thing I see before the Diverter in your first pic? If #4 does go to the Diverter Valve, then that line goes to the Temperature Controlled Vacuum Switch which controls it. There should be a similar line to control the Bypass Valve.
I'm not sure that the two short hoses on the Diverter Valve go to each check valve/air injector rail, but I don't know. I'm used to seeing the one Diverter Valve hose lead to the Upstream Air ports on the heads, and the other to the Downstream Air bung in the exhaust, just before the catalytic converter if equipped.

Unless your Diverter Valve and Bypass Valve are one unit, there should be a separate Bypass Valve, but I didn't see one in your pics.

But if those short hoses do indeed go to the Secondary Air Injection 'rails'/check valves, then that thing I keep calling a Diverter Valve must have an integral Bypass Valve, or it is an actual Bypass Valve...???

I have to admit that I am more familiar with '80s Thermactor setups.

 

Thanks everyone,
The pics, input and offers are helpful and I will likely continue to pick your brains for a while.

--I will take a pic of the original carb when I get home to see what ports/etc. are there.
--the hose end labeled "4" looks like a vaccum line and I may not have the whole thing. i.e. there may be something that it plugs into, that plugs into something else.
--I am not sure about the official names of the silver valves that I have (diverter, bypass) but took some close ups of the part #s if that helps. (but what is connected to the hoses is all I have)

Stay tuned and thanks again

 

Get OUT of California! Thyen you would not need to install that garbage!

 

Fert

 

It will be 92 degrees here on Thanksgiving Day.
We don't get dressed up to go eat at the only Sizzler in town.
High school football scores do not divide our city.
We couldn't care less what them 'ol boys is up to down yonder.
I wear shorts and tshirts year round.
I dont shovel anything...ever.
We can buy a rust free 43-38 year old truck with no rust or rot.

Yeah, we have it tough having to have cleaner burning more efficient vehicles, lol.

 

Still wave Old Glory down at the courthouse too!

 

thats great to hear, we or at least I never know about the left coast anymore being able to do that.


Fert

 

One my truck, a 2 port vacuum switch routes spark port vacuum to the egr. It disables the egr function when the engine is cold.

The 3 port switch on mine, switches the vacuum advance from manifold vacuum to spark port vacuum after warming up.

The PVSs only affect driveability between a cold start engine and an engine at normal operating temperature so dont really affect a smog test because the engine is at operating temperature.

 

Hi All,
Thanks again for your assistance. Here is an update and a question:

Picked up rebuilt engine about 6 weeks ago and was ready to go, but then one of our giant pine trees fell on my garage/shop in one of the Southern Ca. windstorms and along with a busy work schedule, derailed some of my progress....Rebuilt engine is now installed sans accessories, etc., new clutch, blah blah blah...

Spoke to my smog/emissions guy and he was very helpful. I have the original emissions sticker, but it is hard to read, and (as mentioned above) there was not a picture/listing specific to my application. Anyway he said I needed:

• EGR and air pump, along with the diverter and check valves, etc.--got all but the EGR valve, but it is available I think
• thermactor/AIR tubes--Acquired and installed
• Thermostatically controlled air cleaner, (though I think he said I could do vacuum operated as well)--Have a vacuum controlled one, but its a little wonky
• Temp controlled PVS for the vacuum advance.--NOT YET, BUT AVAILABLE
• Exhaust could be single or dual--doesn't matter since it is a non-catalyst--Working on it once engine is running

My question (today anyway) is related to the Temp controlled PVS that goes into the water outlet....per Jklnhyd above, it looks like it should be a 3 port switch? If so what color? I have a yellow 3-port but have seen other colors like orangish/red, blue, etc.

Thanks for any input
FYI-Side note: took 4 attempts over 2 long weekends to get the engine in and mated to the trans. (NP435). First I had the handle of the hoist tilting mechanism on the wrong end and it kept hitting the firewall...out it comes, switch it around....then I fought it for a few hours finally got it on the mounts, wrestled the heavy trans almost in and noticed I forgot the plate between engine and trans...grr..out it comes again...new weekend, clutch, flywheel off to put the plate on, and try again....still not enough room to make things smooth...out it comes again, to ditch the dumb hoist tilting deal and just use some chain....finally its in




Handle is on the wrong end dummy


forget something?


Finally in


Break Time

 

 

Thanks Number Dummy,
I was able to find the heat riser assembly (9A603 in your pic above) in my pile of salvage yard parts, it is blasted, painted, and ready to go now.

Today I started putting on the accessories (alternator, pulleys, PS pump, etc.) My newest issue is that I think I am missing the correct brackets to install the air pump. I thought I had it attached to the salvage yard smog pump, but alas it was another alternator bracket set; It looks like I need 9b452 from your pic in Post #2. It looks like it attaches to the current alternator bracket(s) that I have 10A313 & 10145?

When I attached my hoses/bypass valve assembly to the Thermactor tubes it places the pump roughly in the correct place but the bracketry and maybe spacers? seem to be needed.
Any chance that 9b452 (or its equivalent) is available anywhere? I am assuming that the part may be the same for many FEs from mustangs and other applications, but I am open to any suggestions.
One more obstacle...
Thanks again for all of your help