I need to get back under it and look again at how I've done it, but it's charging and I'm not exactly in the best of health to be doing it. There is a unit that you replace your old voltage regulator with, it tricks the system into thinking there's no change, it's nothing more than a resistor, I should have done that, bet it all would have worked, well the choke would had I grafted the factory harness to it on the necessary wires, but I was changing from the one wire, and rushed on it so I just added my own wire and plugged into the light, which omitted the choke. Seeing that my choke spring is 40 years old, and knowing the situation, I think I'm going to try the Holley replacement listed above, I had hoped to make it all work with what I had around here, BTW that unit to replace your regulator for this upgrade, to make it all look factory, it's $50, and seeing that I got by without it, it can't be anything more than a resistor, that is too much for what it is. I replaced my ignition wire when I upgraded to electronic ignition, if I wanted to, I could hook it to the New wire for the choke as it has a resistor, but the spring just isn't worth the effort because when it was hooked up temporarily, it wasn't working the other day. This could be a lesson for anyone upgrading an older vehicle, but many have upgraded to a 4 barrel, and aftermarket are 12 volts.

 

Ok just looked again, the stat jumps over and plugs directly into the tab on the alt I believe, so yes I missed it all entirely, I need to crawl under it and tap that for the choke perhaps then I'll have it right. See the fast way to hook it up is one to key, that's the idiot light, jump the other to the post with the charging wire, then the white stat to the little tab that plugs into the case by the regulator, I don't know why I forgot about that one. I gotta figure how I want to lay it all out now because I do not want to run a bunch of wires, I'll have to pull the harness over and utilize what's already down there, just pull the white one I ran out. So you have the green with red that is your idiot light that goes to I, then the white with black stripe for the stator/choke, being extremely careful because it comes up to the top where your old regulator is, you do not want it grounding out so shield the end in it there. I will be reusing that old wire due to being neater, but the Holley 12 volt choke cap is cheaper than replacing my crusty stock spring so I'm really going to have to think this through, but that should have it all figured out.

 

I understand somewhat about health issues. This year I have had a very mild stroke, 2 stents put in and a pacemaker along with a few other cascading issues. It is somewhat aggravating in a way when you know what and how to do it but it can be a chore. I find getting my van jacked up and on stands is a real chore for me. I normally get help from a neighbor for the heavy work. Like needing to check out the rear axle bearings. Once I get the van up on stands and perhaps the wheels off, I can probably handle the rest..

Let me throw this in to make it a bit more confusing...
This is the site the first diagram came from. I gather that they have their on brand of what they are calling "single wire alternators". They appear to be the same as the Ford 3G from what i can tell..
They have some good information to glance over here as well as in other sections in their site about wire size and pulley size
FAQ-Alternators

Here is yet another diagram that seems to be widely spread across the internet.. And on FTE site but I think it will show up a bit larger if I post it as a pic here.. If it is still too small to read easily then you can always save the image and view or print it

 

That diagram is what I used when I started this swap, you can see the stator wire in it, the one to jump for the choke, the yellow/white I have on the B+ terminal of the alternator, If you saw what they did to the fusible link on my van, you'd not use the charging wire either, but it would have been fine for that wire. You don't have to cut the lower bracket if you use the small case 3G, if you plan on this, you'll have to decide there. The pulley discussion, I have the standard, I don't see it being a good idea over driving the alternator with a smaller pulley, and totally unnecessary. Now if you have the cast mounting bracket on your engine, I have seen people having to notch it to allow the alternator to fit, mine just goes on a bolt that runs through a metal plate and into the head, had to square it and make a spacer. You mount it, and put a straight edge on the pulley, making certain it's flat across the pulley not across the bolt that secures it, you want to line it up so the belt rides in the crank pulley, moving it in or out till it's right, then measure the gap at the bolt where the alternators mounted, to get the proper spacing. You know it all seems like a lot until you get it in your hand and raise it up into position, wiring it is easy.
I am honestly amazed at the durability of the 3G alternator, when I was having issues, blaming it for my battery boiling water from it, and going dead, it was due to the 2 gauge wire that run down the frame of my van to feed the wheelchair lift, it come loose from it's straps and was laying on the exhaust, welded itself there, alternator wasn't bothered a bit it seems, and it wasn't on a fuse like they suggest.
Just remember, don't be like me and splice the stator wire to the clip alone to plug into the alternator, add a wire to run to the choke if you have one, I should have gotten my diagram out and I would have realized where it needed to go, at the time I installed it, I didn't give it a second though.