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I've been reading all I can find....but still can't figure out how to adjust my choke on carburated 81 F100.
The choke is a hot-air/ electric assisted jobby.... I have voltage at the choke but it doesn't open up all the way when it gets colder out. Tube from manifold seems to work fine (tested with out volatage supply..it gets warm).
Unlike all the picutures of 2150 cabs i've seen.....my black housing doen't rotate(?) it seems to be riveted solid into place. It does have arrows on it indicating which direction is lean.
What am I missing here....It just wont' rotate.
Any advice?
If it is riveted you drill out the rivets gently and tap out the holes and put in machne screws. Then you will get adjustability. Also look for binding. Does your carb have the vacuum choke pull off? This needs to be working right to open the choke plate.
Thanks. I had thoughts of doing that.....(and thoughts of disaster!! ha)
Yes it does have the vaccume pull off.....and best I can tell it seem to be working and not binding.
One more question though....I read somewhere about the correct voltage to the choke and I verified I have it going in, but whats the best way to know the voltage is actally having an effect on the choke?
I haven't messed with an electric choke in awhile but I think if you turn the key on and wait a bit you should see movement. Also I think you should be able to feel it warmup a little. The current goes to a little heater coil to help the choke spring move to open the choke. On my old stuff I usually replace a bad electric choke with manual. I like manual chokes, but I also love a manual trans too. Never did mind 'rowing' thru towns because I travel a little slower off the line while I row thru the gears which allows me time to look for problem traffic.
With the manual chole you would adjust it yourself from inside the cab. Once the truck is warmed up you don't need the choke. If I got your question correct, that is. If you are refering to the increase in RPMs for when your AC comes on, thats handled by the VOTM.
So when I pull the cable **** and the choke plate closes, the fast idle still kicks on?
If so, is that cause the cam thingy still rotates?
Thanks. I enjoy these "how it works" discussions.
Steve
Pull manual choke and tap the pedal if the fast idle won't set. After warmup just tap the throttle and fast idle will drop!
Last manual I had was a '66 300 I6 about two years ago. Pull choke turn key fired right up. Run for one minute ease off choke about 1/8 to 1/4 and drive. After a couple of miles on the highway push off the choke. Those I6s are the most amazing motors
On my 84, the black plastic choke is also rivited, but there are 2 shoulders that a 12" adjustable wrench will fit on. I have to adjust mine about twice a year, and as the weather is cooling down here, I adjusted it yesterday.
You might try a large pair of channel-locks if it doesn't have the shoulders.
You just kinda lost me here talking about the two shoulders..... Are they on the black housing its self? Its only the black housing your rotating right?
Finally got around to working on my choke. I took the choke assembly off and ground the heads of the 'rivets' off. Took a punch and thought i could tap the holes clear. NOT SO (oops)
Turns out that these holes were tapped and these 'rivet heads' were screwed into the holes. (a bolt with a rivet head)
?? a little JB weld, new home-made gasket, 3 small machine screws and now I can adjust my choke.
My only thought is that I should have been able to rotate the (black) housing cap but it was too siezed to move.
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