I figured I would post some pics of the work I'm doing on my IDI.

I removed the glow plugs and thankfully none of the tips were swollen. These were Berus. I did test some of them with a test light per the directions on our forum and at least 2 or 3 are bad. I figure I will test them all with a multimeter just to see what they're like. I will replace them with Motorcrafts.




I also removed the glowplug controller. I sprayed it with PB Blaster infinity times and moved it back and forth with an open end wrench before removing it. I used a hacksaw to cut off the top hoping I could get a box end wrench on it but the collar got in the way. Oh well, I have a Diesel Rx glow plug controller to replace it.



I took the valve covers off so I can retorque the head gaskets. You can get them off without removing the fuel filter.



I'm using a gallon of coolant in about a week driving 70 miles each day to and from work. I did use a chemical tester to see if there was combustion gases in my coolant. Thankfully it tested negative for a blown head gasket. I also don't have coolant in the oil. I think I am loosing the coolant out the hoses to the heater core. They are nasty and corroded. Plus the passenger's side exhaust manifold is white like coolant is hitting it while hot.

I removed the PS pump to rebuild it and replace the hoses. It's leaking like a sieve. I need to remove the oil cooler so I can remove the block drains. I will rebuild the oil cooler when I remove it.



The starter will come off too. I will test it when I have it off even tough it seems to crank easy. I hope I can get that top bolt off easier by removing the solenoid to get more room. If not, I will just have to man up and get er' done. FWIW, I think I have a Mitsubishi starter since the Mitsubishi star is stamped right on the bottom.

More pics to come. Wish me luck

 

Here's a pic of the passenger's exhaust manifold. You can see the nastiness on the heater core hose.

 

That same heater hose blew on my 86 6.9..oil leaked on it and softened it...they picked a dumb place for it..under the valve cover where oil can get it and above the exhaust manifold where the high heat will get it..good thing you caught it before it blew out like mine did..

 

I hope your IDI didn't' overheat when it blew. That's definitely scary.


I am going to install a coolant filter and hoses between the block and the heater core. More pics to come.

 

Not that I've worked on three of these IDI's in my van and on the engine stands, I'm getting to know the heads and block pretty well. While I agree that the location of the heater core hose bib on the heads are odd, it would be pretty easy to rig up some 90 degree brass fittings to make the heater core bib to orient around the side of the valve cover, thus limiting its exposure to oil from a leak at the VC gasket. But it would need to be precisely measured and installed, as to not block the VC from being extracted off the head.

 

That's a good idea. I think my hoses were leaking because the truck was neglected by the previous owner.

Here are some pics. Behold Mephistopholese, buster of knuckles!



I removed the top bolt the old fashioned way. It's actually just as difficult to remove the solenoid first because the screws on the back side of the solenoid are quite close to the exhaust. Just make sure you disconnect the positive battery cable and solenoid to starter cable first. This will give you a little bit more room.



I used a combination of a 6 inch and 3 inch extension with a standard 13mm socket. I also alternately used a 6 inch extension with a deep 13mm socket. If you use a wobble extension I found it's easier to put it next to the wrench instead of the socket. Make sure you move the steering wheel so the front tires are pointing to the left. This gives you more room to lay under the truck.

Anyways, more pics to come...

 

I just replaced the Starter a few weeks ago...fun job.
The Dumb Azz before me used 10mm 12 point bolts, bottoms were easy.
Top one was packed with grease, oil grime dirt etc... liked to never found it.
Finally used a Mirror on a stick and a Miners light strapped to my head to
look up in there. Worked great.


I bought the 50 lumen one from Wally World, I would go with a brighter one like 100 lumen.
Think they are $20 - $25.


I replaced the Bolts with 9/16th, and used a Powermaster 9050 Starter from Summit Racing.
Almost flipped the truck on it`s side it spins so fast.




Charlie

 

Oh god, I remember the fun with the direct drive "scud missile" starter. Switched to a gear reduction and never looked back. WAY easier to change out, and spins crazy fast.

I need to dig through the box of pipe fittings to reroute that same heater hose. Mine is pretty floppy at this point, but I've been putting it off until I'm doing a T-stat and coolant flush (and draining pet*****, and a coolant filter, etc...)

 

You do realize that the one in the above pictures is a gear reduction starter as well? And, near as I can tell, will crank at the exact same speed as the "offset"/shorter denso starter?
The only difference is whether your starter is new, or worn out(brushes and/or grease turned to grime).

 

Figured it was a Delco, didn't spot the Mitsu logo on the side.
Been 5 or 6 years since I went to the smaller gear reduction style, and would never go back to even a planetary style (just on the size and additional cranking amps needed).

 

That's crazy.


I read some other threads that mentioned using a stud and nut instead of a bolt on top. That's what I did with the rear bolt on my mechanical lift pump. Once I replaced it with a stud and nut it was much easier to install.


I've also read that folks replace the top bolt with a bolt 7 or 8 inches long with a stop nut threaded to the correct position so it hold the starter secure. I'm going to do one of those changes to the top bolt.



I guess there is a smaller starter then?


I read about it but I don't think I want to spend $150+ on a starter when mine works ok. I had it tested at the auto parts store. Here are the stats they gave me.


Voltage: (Low) 5, (Actual) 11.86, (High) 22.00


Current: (Low) 60, (Actual) 132.16, (High) 210.00


Maybe one of you gents can shed some light on whether my starter is on the way out. It does seem to crank fine. The only starting problem my truck has is the glow plugs which will be fixed after this overhaul.


More pics to come momentarily. I should save this post while I'm ahead before it times out on me.

 

I woke up at 0Dark30 this morning and got to work. I can never sleep:





I was able to get everything disassembled. Now I just need to rebuild the oil cooler, rebuild the PS pump and put it all back together. Here's my shop:





The blue glow isn't witchcraft or aliens, it's my neon:





More pics coming. I'm going to post so it saves. I've had difficulty using this computer.

 

I removed the oil cooler without lifting the engine. According to this tutorial, you're supposed to be able to remove the oil cooler from underneath the truck by taking it between the block and the 1/2 shaft:


6.9L & 7.3L IDI Oil Cooler Rebuild & O-ring Replacement Guide


I fought it for over an hour and was drenched in oil and coolant. I even tried disconnecting the brake lines from the distribution block.





I ended up removing the oil cooler from above by taking it up and over the cross member and back down towards the lower radiator hose. The above tutorial says to remove the negative battery cable from the block to get better access to the front oil cooler header. I also removed the lower radiator hose. I'm glad I did, it's nasty and needs replaced.

 

Here are all the parts I removed from the truck and the tools I used.








That's everything for now. I need to go to the hardware store and buy more oil dry after today. I was rolling around in it earlier.


I'll keep everyone posted when I clean and rebuild the oil cooler.

 

If yours works fine, leave it be. Mine burnt out, and I needed the truck ASAP, so ordered a Denso style offset for about $100 shipped.

Definitely looks like you're keeping busy. My oil cooler is slobbering oil pretty good, but I've been ignoring it until I actually get the time to rebuild it.