ZF 6 speed in my 97 CCSB 4x4
#1
ZF 6 speed in my 97 CCSB 4x4
Just got through installing a ZF 6 speed in my 97 OBS.
I shortened my rear shaft by 13 inches and lengthen the front 13.
I decided to change the rear shaft to a one piece since it was shortened so much, that also let me do away with the carrier bearing. (nice added feature)
I used the original ZF 6 cooling lines also. I had to replace my radiator this spring and the replacement had cooler fittings for an automatic transmission so I just hooked the ZF lines to them.
Some on here had said the transmission wouldn't fit and would hit the floor pan. I didn't have this problem. The shifter tower is at the original place and the engine inclination is still the same place.
I did fab a new cross member from 2 x 2 x 1/4 square tubing and used the factory trans mount.
I am going to have to add some 4 degree spring wedges the rear end to turn the pinion down some, It goes from smooth to a vibration under slight acceleration and smooth again under heavy acceleration. I guess its going from slight down pinion to 0 (vibration from being totally straight) and then going slightly up under hard power.
I did this swap because my ZF 5 speed had a ton of gear roll over noise (400,000 miles) and with 3.55 gears and a 4.14 first gear ratio (came out of an IDI truck, I didn't know they were different when I bought the truck with a bad trans and put that one in. It was impossible to start off in high side with my backhoe on my goose neck on any slight grade.
I used my clutch master cylinder and the ZF 6 slave all worked perfect together.
Now I have basically a 5 speed with a granny low, but it also seems to be a lot closer ratio, in 2nd through 6th, it stays in the torque curve better now.
I also used my South Bend fly wheel but had a a clutch and pressure plate built by Tn. Brake and Clutch in Nashville Tn. They put organic lining on one side and a metallic lining on the other, this works great, its smooth and holds my 350 / 750 rwh no problem.
I pulled my enclosed trailer today with my car and all my track plunder and I took off in second just as good as the old ZF5 did in first, I love it.
It seemed several people have asked about this swap, and I always read where people said it wasn't worth it and it was a lot of trouble, but i noticed most that were saying that hadn't actually done one.
I say it's definitely worth it.
I shortened my rear shaft by 13 inches and lengthen the front 13.
I decided to change the rear shaft to a one piece since it was shortened so much, that also let me do away with the carrier bearing. (nice added feature)
I used the original ZF 6 cooling lines also. I had to replace my radiator this spring and the replacement had cooler fittings for an automatic transmission so I just hooked the ZF lines to them.
Some on here had said the transmission wouldn't fit and would hit the floor pan. I didn't have this problem. The shifter tower is at the original place and the engine inclination is still the same place.
I did fab a new cross member from 2 x 2 x 1/4 square tubing and used the factory trans mount.
I am going to have to add some 4 degree spring wedges the rear end to turn the pinion down some, It goes from smooth to a vibration under slight acceleration and smooth again under heavy acceleration. I guess its going from slight down pinion to 0 (vibration from being totally straight) and then going slightly up under hard power.
I did this swap because my ZF 5 speed had a ton of gear roll over noise (400,000 miles) and with 3.55 gears and a 4.14 first gear ratio (came out of an IDI truck, I didn't know they were different when I bought the truck with a bad trans and put that one in. It was impossible to start off in high side with my backhoe on my goose neck on any slight grade.
I used my clutch master cylinder and the ZF 6 slave all worked perfect together.
Now I have basically a 5 speed with a granny low, but it also seems to be a lot closer ratio, in 2nd through 6th, it stays in the torque curve better now.
I also used my South Bend fly wheel but had a a clutch and pressure plate built by Tn. Brake and Clutch in Nashville Tn. They put organic lining on one side and a metallic lining on the other, this works great, its smooth and holds my 350 / 750 rwh no problem.
I pulled my enclosed trailer today with my car and all my track plunder and I took off in second just as good as the old ZF5 did in first, I love it.
It seemed several people have asked about this swap, and I always read where people said it wasn't worth it and it was a lot of trouble, but i noticed most that were saying that hadn't actually done one.
I say it's definitely worth it.
#2
#3
#4
#5
#7
Trending Topics
#8
#9
#10
Thanks, I am going to get one.......
#11
Just got through installing a ZF 6 speed in my 97 OBS.
I shortened my rear shaft by 13 inches and lengthen the front 13.
I decided to change the rear shaft to a one piece since it was shortened so much, that also let me do away with the carrier bearing. (nice added feature)
I used the original ZF 6 cooling lines also. I had to replace my radiator this spring and the replacement had cooler fittings for an automatic transmission so I just hooked the ZF lines to them.
Some on here had said the transmission wouldn't fit and would hit the floor pan. I didn't have this problem. The shifter tower is at the original place and the engine inclination is still the same place.
I did fab a new cross member from 2 x 2 x 1/4 square tubing and used the factory trans mount.
I am going to have to add some 4 degree spring wedges the rear end to turn the pinion down some, It goes from smooth to a vibration under slight acceleration and smooth again under heavy acceleration. I guess its going from slight down pinion to 0 (vibration from being totally straight) and then going slightly up under hard power.
I did this swap because my ZF 5 speed had a ton of gear roll over noise (400,000 miles) and with 3.55 gears and a 4.14 first gear ratio (came out of an IDI truck, I didn't know they were different when I bought the truck with a bad trans and put that one in. It was impossible to start off in high side with my backhoe on my goose neck on any slight grade.
I used my clutch master cylinder and the ZF 6 slave all worked perfect together.
Now I have basically a 5 speed with a granny low, but it also seems to be a lot closer ratio, in 2nd through 6th, it stays in the torque curve better now.
I also used my South Bend fly wheel but had a a clutch and pressure plate built by Tn. Brake and Clutch in Nashville Tn. They put organic lining on one side and a metallic lining on the other, this works great, its smooth and holds my 350 / 750 rwh no problem.
I pulled my enclosed trailer today with my car and all my track plunder and I took off in second just as good as the old ZF5 did in first, I love it.
It seemed several people have asked about this swap, and I always read where people said it wasn't worth it and it was a lot of trouble, but i noticed most that were saying that hadn't actually done one.
I say it's definitely worth it.
I shortened my rear shaft by 13 inches and lengthen the front 13.
I decided to change the rear shaft to a one piece since it was shortened so much, that also let me do away with the carrier bearing. (nice added feature)
I used the original ZF 6 cooling lines also. I had to replace my radiator this spring and the replacement had cooler fittings for an automatic transmission so I just hooked the ZF lines to them.
Some on here had said the transmission wouldn't fit and would hit the floor pan. I didn't have this problem. The shifter tower is at the original place and the engine inclination is still the same place.
I did fab a new cross member from 2 x 2 x 1/4 square tubing and used the factory trans mount.
I am going to have to add some 4 degree spring wedges the rear end to turn the pinion down some, It goes from smooth to a vibration under slight acceleration and smooth again under heavy acceleration. I guess its going from slight down pinion to 0 (vibration from being totally straight) and then going slightly up under hard power.
I did this swap because my ZF 5 speed had a ton of gear roll over noise (400,000 miles) and with 3.55 gears and a 4.14 first gear ratio (came out of an IDI truck, I didn't know they were different when I bought the truck with a bad trans and put that one in. It was impossible to start off in high side with my backhoe on my goose neck on any slight grade.
I used my clutch master cylinder and the ZF 6 slave all worked perfect together.
Now I have basically a 5 speed with a granny low, but it also seems to be a lot closer ratio, in 2nd through 6th, it stays in the torque curve better now.
I also used my South Bend fly wheel but had a a clutch and pressure plate built by Tn. Brake and Clutch in Nashville Tn. They put organic lining on one side and a metallic lining on the other, this works great, its smooth and holds my 350 / 750 rwh no problem.
I pulled my enclosed trailer today with my car and all my track plunder and I took off in second just as good as the old ZF5 did in first, I love it.
It seemed several people have asked about this swap, and I always read where people said it wasn't worth it and it was a lot of trouble, but i noticed most that were saying that hadn't actually done one.
I say it's definitely worth it.
#13
#14
I got rid of my E4OD and replaced it with a ZF6. As I recall, the E4OD came with a thicker cast aluminum spacer between the engine and bellhousing, the ZF6 uses a thinner spacer. Swapping from a ZF5 to a ZF6 I don't know but I assume (famous last words) that the distance will be the same and no spacer change is needed.
Bob
Bob
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
flipboard7431
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
8
04-30-2014 07:30 PM
Torchin' an Truckin'
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
07-19-2010 09:42 AM
lift_it_higher
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
06-23-2008 11:26 PM
fairlaniac
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
7
01-18-2007 11:25 AM
bigbluetruck
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
18
09-01-2003 09:22 AM