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How do I fix rust problems without using bondo or cutting corners?

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Old Nov 12, 2017 | 10:36 PM
  #16  
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From: Mondak
Originally Posted by bryanmartin
If there are no schools available, there is still a great method to learning. Buy a welder, find some scrap, watch some YouTube videos, and lay down some welds.
Now, here's the key... join the WeldingWeb forum. Lay some welds down, then take pictures of your welds and post them on the forum asking for feedback. The folks on that forum are amazing. They can tell you exactly what you need to do differently just by analyzing pictures of your welds. It's a great way to learn. I actually did this while in welding school. I found the online community more helpful than my instructor.
Looks like thats what im gonna have to do, but I have faith!
Thank you for your advice, I joined the forum (same user) and will post when I get my welder. In the meantime I'll read up on welding. Can't hurt right?
 
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Old Nov 12, 2017 | 10:38 PM
  #17  
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From: Mondak
Originally Posted by jimlj
Bondo if used PROPERLY is not a bad thing. There are few if any, including new vehicles on the road today without some type of body filler on them. You will need a skim coat to cover and smooth any weld seams you have. The trick is to use it properly over properly prepared surfaces. Another option vs welding is the use of panel bond adhesive. 3M has a lot of videos showing it's use.
Ill definitely keep this in mind! Though i'm still strongly trying to avoid the use of any body fillers.
Anyways If I can't figure something out with welding than it looks like fillers are my only option. Thank you!
 
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 06:09 AM
  #18  
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You have a preconceived notion that body fillers should not be used.That is fine ,BUT, body fillers used with proper preparation,application,and finishing are absolutely a proper way of metal repair. Alternatives? The old school way of applying lead or welding,grinding,hammering until you can use only a few coats of primer. Either method is very unrealistic for most repairs. The best and most reputable body repair/restoration shops use plastic fillers with excellent, long lasting results. good luck! gary
 
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 06:54 AM
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Most people are tempted to go cheap when buying a welder. There is nothing wrong with inexpensive 120 volt units but get a decent one with the gas attachment and run C75, not the straight carbon dioxide. Also, I have found any welder with just the 4 clicks on a **** to be frustrating to dial in. Get one with infinite smooth adjust *****. You won't be sorry.
You can start without gas, using flux core but still buy a welder you can add gas to later.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 07:29 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by vtpkrat2
You have a preconceived notion that body fillers should not be used.That is fine ,BUT, body fillers used with proper preparation,application,and finishing are absolutely a proper way of metal repair. Alternatives? The old school way of applying lead or welding,grinding,hammering until you can use only a few coats of primer. Either method is very unrealistic for most repairs. The best and most reputable body repair/restoration shops use plastic fillers with excellent, long lasting results. good luck! gary
I was also thinking lead but that takes more tools and skill than a skim coat of filler.

Originally Posted by willowbilly3
Most people are tempted to go cheap when buying a welder. There is nothing wrong with inexpensive 120 volt units but get a decent one with the gas attachment and run C75, not the straight carbon dioxide. Also, I have found any welder with just the 4 clicks on a **** to be frustrating to dial in. Get one with infinite smooth adjust *****. You won't be sorry.
You can start without gas, using flux core but still buy a welder you can add gas to later.
I have a Lincoln 120 volt think it is a 135, sorry no good picture of it.
I started with flux core and quickly switched to gas using Co2, it was free, and it did a lot better job (cleaner) than flux core.
When I started my latest project I went with a Argon mix gas and it is better (cleaner) than the Co2.


I bought mine to do sheet metal body work and I would say use gas if that is what you will be doing.
I have also used it to weld the axle tubes to the center section on my drag car to keep them from turning. You just have to do a little bit at a time to let the welder cool off and many passes to get it welded.



As others will say once you have a welder you will wonder how you got along with out one this long.
Dave ----
 
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 11:21 AM
  #21  
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I'll go a step further, using body filler IS the proper way to do body work. As stated above it must be done correctly. Do all your metal work such as panel replacement, then study up on hammer and dolly work to get the panel as smooth as possible. Your final coat of filler, if done properly, should be no more than 1/16 of an inch thick at its thickest, though many brands can be used up to 1/4" (but that just means you need more work with a hammer and dolly in my opinion). Yes, there are people who do all their body work with no filler, but that's more of a extreme skill show-off palour trick than anything else. The famous builders we all respect the most (e.g. Foose, Trepanier, Kindig, etc.) all use body filler.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 05:08 PM
  #22  
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From: Mondak
Originally Posted by vtpkrat2
You have a preconceived notion that body fillers should not be used.That is fine ,BUT, body fillers used with proper preparation,application,and finishing are absolutely a proper way of metal repair. Alternatives? The old school way of applying lead or welding,grinding,hammering until you can use only a few coats of primer. Either method is very unrealistic for most repairs. The best and most reputable body repair/restoration shops use plastic fillers with excellent, long lasting results. good luck! gary
I do, I guess i'm a little biased because I've seen what It looks like when not properly used. Brother's 78' Camaro was plastered in it. Once they started to strip paint and prep it turned into an ordeal of bodywork and thats something im trying to avoid down the road. Realistically I probably will end up using body filler of some kind, but welding/etc. is what I'm gonna try to stick to. Thanks again!
 
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 05:10 PM
  #23  
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From: Mondak
Originally Posted by willowbilly3
Most people are tempted to go cheap when buying a welder. There is nothing wrong with inexpensive 120 volt units but get a decent one with the gas attachment and run C75, not the straight carbon dioxide. Also, I have found any welder with just the 4 clicks on a **** to be frustrating to dial in. Get one with infinite smooth adjust *****. You won't be sorry.
You can start without gas, using flux core but still buy a welder you can add gas to later.
Ill keep that in mind, a gas welder was the ideal option from the start.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 05:18 PM
  #24  
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From: Mondak
Originally Posted by bryanmartin
I'll go a step further, using body filler IS the proper way to do body work. As stated above it must be done correctly. Do all your metal work such as panel replacement, then study up on hammer and dolly work to get the panel as smooth as possible. Your final coat of filler, if done properly, should be no more than 1/16 of an inch thick at its thickest, though many brands can be used up to 1/4" (but that just means you need more work with a hammer and dolly in my opinion). Yes, there are people who do all their body work with no filler, but that's more of a extreme skill show-off palour trick than anything else. The famous builders we all respect the most (e.g. Foose, Trepanier, Kindig, etc.) all use body filler.
I did watch something on Eastwoods channel once, they used several coats of filler between sanding/wet sanding and prepping a door for paint. Anyways, the final product looked amazing! I don't know why I'm so against fillers, but I certainly do agree with if used correctly it can be a good thing.
Thank you!
 
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Old Nov 13, 2017 | 06:40 PM
  #25  
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From: Mondak
Lightbulb Update!

What I thought was a tear in the metal was actually body filler!
Y'all were right, I shoulda known.
 
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