When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Does anybody still use this method for repairing small rust holes in areas like A pillars and door jams? I tried my hand at it years ago with an old project and had good results, but I never was able to see how the repair held up for the long term. Any input, positives or negatives to using this repair method is appreciated.
The problem with lead is that the acid in it will promote rust over time. A better repair is to cut the rusty metal away and weld in new metal. It's a permanent repair without the chemical reaction later.
The problem with lead is that the acid in it will promote rust over time. A better repair is to cut the rusty metal away and weld in new metal. It's a permanent repair without the chemical reaction later.
I have to learn to weld first. Lol. The lead repair was pretty easy, figure there was a reason it wasn't widely used.
It's still used but not a lot,reason is it's a killer to work with to the human body, lungs for sure . Some claim rust gets under it , but it gets under bondo too. Best to replace as much of the metal as possible.
Does anybody still use this method for repairing small rust holes in areas like A pillars and door jams? I tried my hand at it years ago with an old project and had good results, but I never was able to see how the repair held up for the long term. Any input, positives or negatives to using this repair method is appreciated.
The more popular use for "lead" (metal filler) is to fill body seams because it is less susceptible to shrinking/swelling and eventually cracking. If ya wanna try again, Eastwood offers leading kits and supplies.
The more popular use for "lead" (metal filler) is to fill body seams because it is less susceptible to shrinking/swelling and eventually cracking. If ya wanna try again, Eastwood offers leading kits and supplies.
Eastwood also offers synthetic lead that is non toxic if I remember right.
A MIG will save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars over your lifetime.
Any suggestions on what to look for? I found a Hobart at Tractor Supply for $400 that has gas hook ups and can be used with either solid wire or flux wire. My buddy that I grew up with said it would be just fine for what I am wanting to use it for... his father has been a body man for over 50 years so I trust his judgement. Does this soind like something I should pursue?
Any suggestions on what to look for? I found a Hobart at Tractor Supply for $400 that has gas hook ups and can be used with either solid wire or flux wire. My buddy that I grew up with said it would be just fine for what I am wanting to use it for... his father has been a body man for over 50 years so I trust his judgement. Does this soind like something I should pursue?
I'm with Hio on the welder. I've been welding since I was 12. The number of times you use it, it'll easily pay for its self.
Hobart is a pretty good brand. Lincoln and Miller are very good.
Just a few pointers and such:
-GMAW (MIG) welding uses shielding gas (Argon/CO2 mix) and solid wire. Any GMAW (MIG) machine can use gassless (fluxcore) wire. GMAW is best for thinner material, like sheetmetal.
-FCAW (fluxcore) requires no shielding gas. The core of the wire contains flux to shield the weld. FCAW is generally better for dirty work material and thicker material. You can use it for body work, but it's very difficult.
-Look for a machine that can run on both 120V and 240V. 240V is better to use, but the 120V capability allows you to be portable.
-Find something 120 amps, at a minimum. 140 would be better.
-Definitely get a GMAW (MIG) welder. You can still use fluxcore wire, but also have the option of using shielding gas and solid wire.
-If the specifications I listed above are a bit above your price range, you might try finding a used model on Craigslist.
I'm with Hio on the welder. I've been welding since I was 12. The number of times you use it, it'll easily pay for its self.
Hobart is a pretty good brand. Lincoln and Miller are very good.
Just a few pointers and such:
-GMAW (MIG) welding uses shielding gas (Argon/CO2 mix) and solid wire. Any GMAW (MIG) machine can use gassless (fluxcore) wire. GMAW is best for thinner material, like sheetmetal.
U
-FCAW (fluxcore) requires no shielding gas. The core of the wire contains flux to shield the weld. FCAW is generally better for dirty work material and thicker material. You can use it for body work, but it's very difficult.
-Look for a machine that can run on both 120V and 240V. 240V is better to use, but the 120V capability allows you to be portable.
-Find something 120 amps, at a minimum. 140 would be better.
-Definitely get a GMAW (MIG) welder. You can still use fluxcore wire, but also have the option of using shielding gas and solid wire.
-If the specifications I listed above are a bit above your price range, you might try finding a used model on Craigslist.
Thank you so much! I called today about some welding classes at the votech, and it will be a no go. I am the general superintendent of a small construction company in Jacksonville Florida, so I cannot take a class Mon.- Fri., 8:15 am - 3:30 pm... guess I will have to learn on my own. Besides, I am not too sure about taking classes at 35 years old! LOL.
Thank you so much! I called today about some welding classes at the votech, and it will be a no go. I am the general superintendent of a small construction company in Jacksonville Florida, so I cannot take a class Mon.- Fri., 8:15 am - 3:30 pm... guess I will have to learn on my own. Besides, I am not too sure about taking classes at 35 years old! LOL.
No problem. Just buy yourself some 1/8" flatbar, 16, 18, and 20 gauge sheet metal to practice on. That should give you a good range to practice on.
MIG is easy. You'll pick it up quickly once you get the hang of wire speed and heat ranges. The cleaner you can make you surfaces, the nicer the welds will be. (FYI)
guess I will have to learn on my own. Besides, I am not too sure about taking classes at 35 years old! LOL.
I live in central FL, just south of Disney. That's how I learned to weld. Once you get the feel for it, it's quite easy.
Practice, practice, practice. Most sheetmetal on cars is 22-24 gauge so at first you're going to burn holes through just about everything. Just keep at it and you'll learn.
Definitely go with the MIG welder, a gasless, flux core welder doesn't have the flexibility that a MIG has.
For sheetmetal I use .025 solid wire and argon/CO2 mix (75%/25%).
As for classes and being 35, don't worry about it. I never touched a MIG welder until I was in my 50's. You're never too old to learn a new skill.
Good luck
I live in central FL, just south of Disney. That's how I learned to weld. Once you get the feel for it, it's quite easy.
Practice, practice, practice. Most sheetmetal on cars is 22-24 gauge so at first you're going to burn holes through just about everything. Just keep at it and you'll learn.
Definitely go with the MIG welder, a gasless, flux core welder doesn't have the flexibility that a MIG has.
For sheetmetal I use .025 solid wire and argon/CO2 mix (75%/25%).
As for classes and being 35, don't worry about it. I never touched a MIG welder until I was in my 50's. You're never too old to learn a new skill.
Good luck
I live in a small town called Raiford in between Jacksonville and Gainesville. I am looking at some welders today, hopefully I will find one this weekend.