Best gear ratio for E-150 1989 ?
#16
11-12-2017, 01:13 PM
#17
11-12-2017, 01:39 PM
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Here's the list:
1. DANA 2020737
2. If you are going for a single kit you need:
TIMKEN DRK311MKS . It has the shims. But if you get this you will also want: TIMKEN 3604 , USA STANDARD GEAR USA33154 , USA STANDARD GEAR USA33085
But if it was me I would save the cash and go with:
TIMKEN DRK311 &
USA STANDARD GEAR USA12035 .
That gives you the parts you need and saves you money. Plus that gives you the spare pinion seal and nut and crush sleeve. But you need both TIMKEN DRK311 & the USA STANDARD GEAR USA12035, if you go that way. Not either, or.
3. TIMKEN M802048
That should cover the parts ( except the gear lube ) . Unless you want to throw in new axle bearing and seals while you have the axles out. Then you would want either 2 of the CENTRIC 41468000 or 2 of the USA STANDARD GEAR USA10001 . The Centric are the repair bearings. I go with those most of the time since most of my 8.8" axle shafts have wear/damage on them due to high mileage.
I would say no, on the mini spool. Unless you are drag racing or doing a lot of off road driving. It will cause more hassle then benefits. For street driving if you are upgrading you want a limited slip not a locker. And that adds a lot of $$ to the gear swap because that requires changing out the whole carrier.
1. DANA 2020737
2. If you are going for a single kit you need:
TIMKEN DRK311MKS . It has the shims. But if you get this you will also want: TIMKEN 3604 , USA STANDARD GEAR USA33154 , USA STANDARD GEAR USA33085
But if it was me I would save the cash and go with:
TIMKEN DRK311 &
USA STANDARD GEAR USA12035 .
That gives you the parts you need and saves you money. Plus that gives you the spare pinion seal and nut and crush sleeve. But you need both TIMKEN DRK311 & the USA STANDARD GEAR USA12035, if you go that way. Not either, or.
3. TIMKEN M802048
That should cover the parts ( except the gear lube ) . Unless you want to throw in new axle bearing and seals while you have the axles out. Then you would want either 2 of the CENTRIC 41468000 or 2 of the USA STANDARD GEAR USA10001 . The Centric are the repair bearings. I go with those most of the time since most of my 8.8" axle shafts have wear/damage on them due to high mileage.
I would say no, on the mini spool. Unless you are drag racing or doing a lot of off road driving. It will cause more hassle then benefits. For street driving if you are upgrading you want a limited slip not a locker. And that adds a lot of $$ to the gear swap because that requires changing out the whole carrier.
Added all this to rockauto and it is about 250 $, with promo code about 237 $. Not us much i expcted it to be. But when i add up shipping it is abother storry. Almost 200 $ for shipping
i guess i need to find someone in the us who can order all this and send to me for a cheaper shipping.
#18
11-12-2017, 01:47 PM
Thanks for such in depth answer.
Added all this to rockauto and it is about 250 $, with promo code about 237 $. Not us much i expcted it to be. But when i add up shipping it is abother storry. Almost 200 $ for shipping i guess i need to find someone in the us who can order all this and send to me for a cheaper shipping.
Added all this to rockauto and it is about 250 $, with promo code about 237 $. Not us much i expcted it to be. But when i add up shipping it is abother storry. Almost 200 $ for shipping
i guess i need to find someone in the us who can order all this and send to me for a cheaper shipping.I don't know how cheap shipping would be either way though. The gear set and bearings are fairly heavy and shipping isn't cheap, even in the US. So I can just imagine the shipping cost for going international.
#19
11-12-2017, 01:47 PM
Logistics Pro
Before you order the parts you really should figure out what it takes to set up axle gears. It's not rocket science, but it does take special tools, some special knowledge (which can be gained over the internet) and a ton of patience (a friend of mine had his rear end apart and back together 12 times before he had the pattern correct). Setting up gears isn't for everyone, and if it's not for you, then you really don't want to do it badly and end up wrecking your new gears. In that case you'd be better off finding a shop that can do it for you.
On the mini spool, no, you definitely don't want that. If you want low-buck improved traction you could go with a "lunch box" locker (like Spartan, Lock Right, Aussie, etc). They are pretty cheap, easy to install, give very positive traction, but have better manners than a spool. They still can be annoying in street driving though, so a much better (but also more expensive) choice for a mostly street-driven vehicle is a TrueTrac from Eaton. If I was changing gears I'd definitely go with a TrueTrac.
On the mini spool, no, you definitely don't want that. If you want low-buck improved traction you could go with a "lunch box" locker (like Spartan, Lock Right, Aussie, etc). They are pretty cheap, easy to install, give very positive traction, but have better manners than a spool. They still can be annoying in street driving though, so a much better (but also more expensive) choice for a mostly street-driven vehicle is a TrueTrac from Eaton. If I was changing gears I'd definitely go with a TrueTrac.
#20
11-13-2017, 08:45 AM
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Now i am contacting a few friends to get those parts to me. Maybe you know some other store that do not charge extra for shippig and is shipping to EU ?
To not start a new thread, maybe someone can suggest best solution for true dual exaust for econoline ? My is all rusted and it needs to be changed anyway, so an upgrade to true dual exaust would be nice. Is it possible to avoid putting catalust converter and go with one rezonator on each pipe in the rear end ? Maybe it is better to let pipes in the side just in front of rear tires in each side ? Every tip would be great,especially from.those who has done it.
To not start a new thread, maybe someone can suggest best solution for true dual exaust for econoline ? My is all rusted and it needs to be changed anyway, so an upgrade to true dual exaust would be nice. Is it possible to avoid putting catalust converter and go with one rezonator on each pipe in the rear end ? Maybe it is better to let pipes in the side just in front of rear tires in each side ? Every tip would be great,especially from.those who has done it.
#21
11-18-2017, 07:25 AM
Is true duals what your heart is set on? When I replaced/upgraded the exhaust in my '88 I discussed the option with my exhaust shop. He said he could do either, but a single larger pipe was less money and as the same in the performance category.
True duals required more piping, more labor, 2 mufflers, 2 tips etc etc.
If you just like the look of dual exhaust outlets, you can always split the pipe at the back.
True duals required more piping, more labor, 2 mufflers, 2 tips etc etc.
If you just like the look of dual exhaust outlets, you can always split the pipe at the back.
#22
11-18-2017, 12:49 PM
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Is true duals what your heart is set on? When I replaced/upgraded the exhaust in my '88 I discussed the option with my exhaust shop. He said he could do either, but a single larger pipe was less money and as the same in the performance category.
True duals required more piping, more labor, 2 mufflers, 2 tips etc etc.
If you just like the look of dual exhaust outlets, you can always split the pipe at the back.
True duals required more piping, more labor, 2 mufflers, 2 tips etc etc.
If you just like the look of dual exhaust outlets, you can always split the pipe at the back.
#23
11-18-2017, 12:56 PM
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I will not start another thread.
Few days back i decided to change my temperature sender unit as the old one was broken and i could not see the temperature in the gauge. I was too lazy and did not drain the coolant. So when i changed the sender unit, coolant got everywhere until i managed to put new one. So i tryed to clean all as far as i could and starte the engine. It started longer then usual and first time even shortened out somewhere. After a wile i tryed again and there was a random misfire, after some time i started again and it was better, almost no misfire, only when idling and then pushing gas pedal. After a wile idle was good, even if i push more gas pedal but whenewer i tryed to put in gear and accelerating harder it is misfiring again and pretty bad. Any ideas ? My guess is that some coolant managed to get in distributor cap or in distributor, any more ideas ?
Few days back i decided to change my temperature sender unit as the old one was broken and i could not see the temperature in the gauge. I was too lazy and did not drain the coolant. So when i changed the sender unit, coolant got everywhere until i managed to put new one. So i tryed to clean all as far as i could and starte the engine. It started longer then usual and first time even shortened out somewhere. After a wile i tryed again and there was a random misfire, after some time i started again and it was better, almost no misfire, only when idling and then pushing gas pedal. After a wile idle was good, even if i push more gas pedal but whenewer i tryed to put in gear and accelerating harder it is misfiring again and pretty bad. Any ideas ? My guess is that some coolant managed to get in distributor cap or in distributor, any more ideas ?
#24
11-18-2017, 10:29 PM
Logistics Pro
#26
11-19-2017, 12:28 AM
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#27
11-21-2017, 09:28 PM
#29
01-18-2021, 07:46 AM
Senior User
#30
01-19-2021, 04:48 AM
First tow on my 6k# boat 150 miles yesterday over relatively flat ground and got 10.5mpg with my 2010 e350 Super Duty 5.4, 3.73 at 60-65 mph. Tried CC but preferred w/o that felt more power when increasing speed. That's about the same mpg with my previous owned Yukon XL 4x4 5.3.
Good advice here:
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