Best gear ratio for E-150 1989 ? - Page 2 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

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Best gear ratio for E-150 1989 ?

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  #16  
Old 11-12-2017, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by monstrs View Post
I have no access on good used rear ends. I live in europe. In US it would be a good choice.
The 4.10 geared E150 8.8" rear diffs are not that easy to find in the US either! That was not a very common gear ratio from the factory on E150's.
 
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  #17  
Old 11-12-2017, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by fordman75 View Post
Here's the list:

1. DANA 2020737
2. If you are going for a single kit you need:

TIMKEN DRK311MKS . It has the shims. But if you get this you will also want: TIMKEN 3604 , USA STANDARD GEAR USA33154 , USA STANDARD GEAR USA33085

But if it was me I would save the cash and go with:

TIMKEN DRK311 &
USA STANDARD GEAR USA12035 .

That gives you the parts you need and saves you money. Plus that gives you the spare pinion seal and nut and crush sleeve. But you need both TIMKEN DRK311 & the USA STANDARD GEAR USA12035, if you go that way. Not either, or.

3. TIMKEN M802048


That should cover the parts ( except the gear lube ) . Unless you want to throw in new axle bearing and seals while you have the axles out. Then you would want either 2 of the CENTRIC 41468000 or 2 of the USA STANDARD GEAR USA10001 . The Centric are the repair bearings. I go with those most of the time since most of my 8.8" axle shafts have wear/damage on them due to high mileage.


I would say no, on the mini spool. Unless you are drag racing or doing a lot of off road driving. It will cause more hassle then benefits. For street driving if you are upgrading you want a limited slip not a locker. And that adds a lot of $$ to the gear swap because that requires changing out the whole carrier.
Thanks for such in depth answer.
Added all this to rockauto and it is about 250 $, with promo code about 237 $. Not us much i expcted it to be. But when i add up shipping it is abother storry. Almost 200 $ for shipping i guess i need to find someone in the us who can order all this and send to me for a cheaper shipping.
 
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Old 11-12-2017, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by monstrs View Post
Thanks for such in depth answer.
Added all this to rockauto and it is about 250 $, with promo code about 237 $. Not us much i expcted it to be. But when i add up shipping it is abother storry. Almost 200 $ for shipping i guess i need to find someone in the us who can order all this and send to me for a cheaper shipping.
The shipping is the one thing I hate about Rock Auto. They like to charge shipping from each warehouse the parts are at. They are the only company I've bought from that does that. Everyone else charges a single shipping fee. Even if you have stuff coming from more then one warehouse.

I don't know how cheap shipping would be either way though. The gear set and bearings are fairly heavy and shipping isn't cheap, even in the US. So I can just imagine the shipping cost for going international.
 
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Old 11-12-2017, 01:47 PM
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Before you order the parts you really should figure out what it takes to set up axle gears. It's not rocket science, but it does take special tools, some special knowledge (which can be gained over the internet) and a ton of patience (a friend of mine had his rear end apart and back together 12 times before he had the pattern correct). Setting up gears isn't for everyone, and if it's not for you, then you really don't want to do it badly and end up wrecking your new gears. In that case you'd be better off finding a shop that can do it for you.

On the mini spool, no, you definitely don't want that. If you want low-buck improved traction you could go with a "lunch box" locker (like Spartan, Lock Right, Aussie, etc). They are pretty cheap, easy to install, give very positive traction, but have better manners than a spool. They still can be annoying in street driving though, so a much better (but also more expensive) choice for a mostly street-driven vehicle is a TrueTrac from Eaton. If I was changing gears I'd definitely go with a TrueTrac.
 
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Old 11-13-2017, 08:45 AM
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Now i am contacting a few friends to get those parts to me. Maybe you know some other store that do not charge extra for shippig and is shipping to EU ?

To not start a new thread, maybe someone can suggest best solution for true dual exaust for econoline ? My is all rusted and it needs to be changed anyway, so an upgrade to true dual exaust would be nice. Is it possible to avoid putting catalust converter and go with one rezonator on each pipe in the rear end ? Maybe it is better to let pipes in the side just in front of rear tires in each side ? Every tip would be great,especially from.those who has done it.
 
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Old 11-18-2017, 07:25 AM
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Is true duals what your heart is set on? When I replaced/upgraded the exhaust in my '88 I discussed the option with my exhaust shop. He said he could do either, but a single larger pipe was less money and as the same in the performance category.

True duals required more piping, more labor, 2 mufflers, 2 tips etc etc.
If you just like the look of dual exhaust outlets, you can always split the pipe at the back.
 
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Old 11-18-2017, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by jayro88 View Post
Is true duals what your heart is set on? When I replaced/upgraded the exhaust in my '88 I discussed the option with my exhaust shop. He said he could do either, but a single larger pipe was less money and as the same in the performance category.

True duals required more piping, more labor, 2 mufflers, 2 tips etc etc.
If you just like the look of dual exhaust outlets, you can always split the pipe at the back.
It is not just the looks, actually i would not mind about single outgoing exaust. main concern is that the right side of the engine seems weeker because of the design how exaust from the manifolds come out. It feels to me that right sidee of the engine can not efficiently push out all the exaust gases, it is loauder and causing sometimes lifter problems and so on. That is the main concern. My idea is to get separate pipe from each side of the engine and somwhere further put them in one resonator. But looks of the true dualies and sound is better, money is not a such a big issue here.
 
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Old 11-18-2017, 12:56 PM
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I will not start another thread.

Few days back i decided to change my temperature sender unit as the old one was broken and i could not see the temperature in the gauge. I was too lazy and did not drain the coolant. So when i changed the sender unit, coolant got everywhere until i managed to put new one. So i tryed to clean all as far as i could and starte the engine. It started longer then usual and first time even shortened out somewhere. After a wile i tryed again and there was a random misfire, after some time i started again and it was better, almost no misfire, only when idling and then pushing gas pedal. After a wile idle was good, even if i push more gas pedal but whenewer i tryed to put in gear and accelerating harder it is misfiring again and pretty bad. Any ideas ? My guess is that some coolant managed to get in distributor cap or in distributor, any more ideas ?
 
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Old 11-18-2017, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by monstrs View Post
I will not start another thread....
Why not? It's a lot more helpful than having a thread named "Best gear ratio..." that wanders into dual exhaust and coolant sensors.
 
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Old 11-18-2017, 10:49 PM
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When it comes to gear ratios, tire sizes, ect, there are several good calculators here.
Differential Gear Ratio Chart - Tire Size to Gear Ratio
 
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Old 11-19-2017, 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Nothing Special View Post
Why not? It's a lot more helpful than having a thread named "Best gear ratio..." that wanders into dual exhaust and coolant sensors.
ok, will do that
 
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  #27  
Old 11-21-2017, 09:28 PM
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Is it possible to put an AOD is an 82' e150?
 
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  #28  
Old 11-21-2017, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by TorqueyE150 View Post
Is it possible to put an AOD is an 82' e150?
Yes, but start a new thread don't hijack someone else's.
 
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