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Red Head or OEM?

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Old Nov 8, 2017 | 01:05 AM
  #16  
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Someone wrote this and I had it bookmarked for when I do mine...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ll-theory.html
 
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Old Nov 8, 2017 | 09:01 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Stebs
Someone wrote this and I had it bookmarked for when I do mine...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ll-theory.html
That guy seriously over complicates the process.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2017 | 09:50 AM
  #18  
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From: Wyoming
http://leepowersteering.com/gear-rebuilds-and-upgrades/

Be prepared to send pump in with gear so they can match pump to gear.

when I have to do a steering gear R&R these guys will be my prefered rebuilder.

they will add upgrades to the gear FOR A PRICE.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2017 | 10:34 AM
  #19  
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Back to the question of OEM vs Redhead.

A new OEM box would likely be great. If there was such a thing. There are none and have not been for a LONG time. The motorcraft rebuilts are no better than those of the rest of the autoparts chains. IE they only replace what is broken and the slop is not fixed.

This is what got Redhead in the business in the first place. Its a MUCH better 'refurb' with all of the tolerances back where they belong for proper performance.

All that said, I have been very happy with my Redhead box for the couple months I have been driving it. I did go with a NEW pump and hoses at the same time.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2017 | 06:55 PM
  #20  
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From: Northern California
I have used Lee steering a long time ago before Tom Lee retired, since then all of our race car needs have been handle by Jeff Howe at Howe | Performance Power Steering

However my trucks dont need race car quality and cost so I choose redhead for my steering gears. ( I e used them on 4 different vehicles ) here is what I considered before choosing them

Redhead.
OEM box remanufactured in Auburn Washington USA by skilled workers in small quantities by a family owned company, I can call and ask the owner questions.

*If the bore is worn uses a sleeeve and hone to resize.
*Has 16 sizes of bearings available to get the tightest tolerances possible
*uses remanufactured sector shaft

Motorcraft
OEM box remanufactured in Mexico on a large scale in assembly line fashion.
Parts counter guy at Ford doesn't know ***** about steering gears.

*Uses a new case if bore is worn out.
* has 5 sizes of ***** to adjust fit.
*has access to new sector shaft if needed.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2017 | 12:37 PM
  #21  
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I've had a Redhead for 10 years or so on my X to solve wander, which it did,and just put one on my '65 and couldn't be happier, both made huge improvements. Their customer service is waaay above par. (which actually isn't saying much, sadly)
 
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 03:31 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo
Sounds like an incremental improvement, if it doesn't stop completely in a day or so bleed it again. The "whine" on the stops is the bypass valve , that is normal.
thanks for the help. I would say there is an improvement now. It's definitely quieter but I might bleed again

I called the tire shop and they had my specs on file. Said it's 4.52 passenger 4.71 driver for caster. The wander/correcting I was experiencing seems to be improving a little, maybe as my new ball joints and tie rod ends loosen up.

Think it's worth it to go back and try to get more caster? Still having some steering memory, not sure if that's related. Kind of wondering if that also is the new parts not being worn in. I heard these moog parts can be a bit too tight and first, and after 1000miles they get worn in
 
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 04:56 PM
  #23  
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pirate4x4_camo
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From: Northern California
With those caster settings any wander you are experiencing is being caused by something else and not a lack of caster.

If the shop is worth their salt they would not have aligned it if it had bad ball joints, wheel bearings or Tie rods so you are going to have to look elsewhere.
However I would confirming those parts are in fact in good order. ( your steering memory points to either an improper installed or bad ball joint. )

Without driving it I am just guessing but I'd look at leafspring bushings, shackle bushing. ( the ones that mount to the frame in the front ) as well as track bar bushing.

Before you dig deeper make sure your tire pressures are set to the door placard if you have stock size tires. 50 front 55 rear
 
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Old Nov 10, 2017 | 06:33 PM
  #24  
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Yeah, I agree the alignment doesn't seem to be the blame at this point. A lot of people have mentioned the new moog ball joints are really stiff at first. Some reviews on amazon said their f250 finally broke in around 5000miles after the new ball joints.

I'm pretty sure I installed them correctly... it's a 2wd and there's only one nut on the lower ball joint which I torqued to spec. I pressed them in with a press kit too and used the proper adapters. Not sure if I should just continue to put miles on them and see if they loosen? Maybe continue to grease them here and there too?

edit: I've also read the adjustment sleeve needs to be cleaned and taken out. When I replaced mine I just left it there to keep good enough alignment to drive it to the shop. Obviously the shop did adjust the sleeve so that shouldn't be the issue right?
 
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