I see some soot right at the joint that connects the exhaust to the y pipe that connects the the exhaust of the turbo, I’ve been having loss of power and low boost code p1247. Could that exhaust leak cause this? Also I found that the red hose attaching to the wastegate fitting, the rubber boot that attached the red hose is busted, so I ordered all the green and red tubing and fittings with the solenoid. I also ordered a new map sensor, I did notice the hose to the map sensor isn’t very tight on the fittings, maybe a leak through there? Any thoughts much appreciated. Oh and also when I wake up for work and start the truck, it’s extremely sluggish until I get about a mile down the road then it opens up just fine.

 

I presume that you are referring to the piece known as the collector or baby's butt to the rear of the turbo? Is it leaking at the turbo connection or down on the other side of the collector (the 'Y')? There are up pipes from your exhaust manifolds that are brought together and they are a notorious leak, there is much info on them and doing the job. It will reduce boost but not usually enough to make it noticeable until you fix them and can feel the difference. How cold is it at your location? There is an exhaust back pressure valve (EBPV) that closes at colder start up temps (I don't know exactly what temp) to aide in warming the engine up. It's accompanied with a hissing sound and if you mash the fuel peddle it will open up.

 

Oh! That makes perfect sense, I don’t know what I was thinking! Yes it’s the up pipes that everyone talks about, I thought that was where the exhaust connects to but that’s before the turbo, now it makes sense, so that’s a big reason why I’m having loss of boost. And I live in Southern California so it doesn’t get less than 45 degrees here, when I mash the peddle it will go nowhere at all, could that ebpv valve be going bad?

 

its leaking on the drivers side right at the flange, there is soot sprayed directly down the pipe, and on the firewall

 

Do you think that that would cause the p1247 code?

 

The P1247 code is for low turbo pressure and leaking up-pipes can definitely cause a pressure loss so I would say yes.

You have a choice between aftermarket (Dorman) made up-pipes and Internationl (OEM) pipes. The OEM pipes are obviously more expensive, but they are higher quality. The Dormans work well for most people but having to go back in and replace them can't be ruled out. When I talked to Clay about it, he said they only warranty the work at their shop if you buy Internationals so that was enough to get me to open up the wallet for them. I didn't want to be doing that job twice.

Pocket has an excellent write-up on installing them.

I didn't think it was that bad of a job, but I was also doing a bunch of other work to the motor so I already had the turbo and valve covers off. It was pretty easy at that point.

 

EBPV could be going bad, (actually I think it would be more like the solenoid or the linkage) do you get the hiss associated with it? My up pipes proved to be a horrific job but that was primarily because the bolts at the manifolds were badly rusted and fought me every inch of the way.

 

yah I don’t see how to get back there without removing the turbo and possibly the valve covers, I may just take it to a shop and see how much they would charge

 

yes I do hear the his, I always thought that was the fan, which didn’t make sense because it would be cold, which solenoid controls the valve? Yah I’m not looking forward to fixing those up pipes, i can barely get my arm back there, maybe a job for a shop to get into this time. But I’d rather save the money.

 

I appreciate all the help, this is my first ford, I’m used to working on the Cummins, my grandfather past away so my grandmother wanted me to keep the ford in the family, so I sold the Cummins, hoping to get his truck back to new again

 

No need to remove the valve covers. Remove the turbo, intake spider and the intercooler tubes if you feel the need and get to it. Removing the old up-pipes is easy, installing the new up-pipes is easy. The only hard part is getting the clamp from the up-pipe to the turbo lined up, but that just takes time and effort to accomplish.

You will probably end up spending more on the labor than you will on the part, but do what you need to do in order to get the truck running again.

 

The solenoid for that resides in the bottom of the turbo pedestal in the front and has an electrical connector right on the front of it. When working around there be careful not to break that plastic part out front. Like if you remove the turbo pull the solenoid out first before you break it. I do not know what sensor(s) cause the PCM to activate it but you might want to check on them first, a faulty sensor would cause it to activate when it shouldn't. I'd look at the linkage too, it comes out the left side of the pedestal and connects to the valve a couple of inches over.

Hold onto your shorts when you get an estimate for paying someone else to do your up pipes for you, I'd like to hear that estimate. Valve covers do not have to come off but all of your intake piping does.

 

These trucks are amazing and very reliable when they are maintained properly. I am very happy I selected the 7.3 three and a half years ago when I was looking for my first diesel.

 

im going to have to get it done, I just hope I don’t break any of those bolts! That would put a halt real quick.

 

Pre-soak all of the bolts you are concerned about with ATF/alcohol or your favorite penetrating oil well ahead of time and based on your location and the history of the truck you should be fine. My truck was a southern raised truck and I have had zero problems removing any bolt on the truck after nearly 20 years of being in service.