When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
WOW! I just spent a considerable time searching for the TECA relay with no luck at all. After failing to locate it I did a Google search ad eventually came across this post on a different forum;
I don't have a 8th gen truck but sounds like you found the right location under those burnt plastic covers.The location matches the description of the pic I posted."EEC" stands for "electronic engine control" but what ya gunna do? It's a mass produced vehicle.I don't see FORD stamping out separate covers for diesel trucks just because there is no EEC.Much cheaper to just use the gasser covers.
Now to see if you can get the melted thing apart and see if you can find a relay buried in there to test.
I don't have a 8th gen truck but sounds like you found the right location under those burnt plastic covers.The location matches the description of the pic I posted."EEC" stands for "electronic engine control" but what ya gunna do? It's a mass produced vehicle.I don't see FORD stamping out separate covers for diesel trucks just because there is no EEC.Much cheaper to just use the gasser covers.
Now to see if you can get the melted thing apart and see if you can find a relay buried in there to test.
I finally realized what was going on thatt the relays are shoved up into that cover from Below the reason it took so long to figure out is because there's only one in there. There's another relay laying next to it (fuel) and a third connector coming out of the wiring harness the same place as the other two relay connectors but that one is round and whatever was in it or connected to it is nothing more than a mass of melted plastic. Getting a new cover shouldn't be too difficult at the junkyard so I'm not worried about that. Right now I'm Googling trying to identify these relays.
If you or anyone else has any idea what this was before the
Meltdown please let me know
The one with no relay attached is where I removed the EEC
There's no electric fuel pump on the IDI diesels,so that relay wont be used.Looks like you just found a capped off plug.A bit melted wont hurt that any.Perhaps those wires are ones that gas trucks would use for the fuel pump relay circuit or something.They're nothing you need at any rate since they're capped.
There's no electric fuel pump on the IDI diesels,so that relay wont be used.Looks like you just found a capped off plug.A bit melted wont hurt that any.Perhaps those wires are ones that gas trucks would use for the fuel pump relay circuit or something.They're nothing you need at any rate since they're capped.
I figured that out while you were posting after I pulled the cap. There was a spare cap to fit down by the fender too. The other relay which was laying below is # E3TB13A025 A2A which on a search from Napa using my vehicle as a filter comes back as both AC temp control relay and/or a shift light relay. I can't locate the trailer tow relay so maybe they used that as a substitute in the past????
Yeah,either they robbed it or the truck didn't come with the tow package so the relay socket for that was left empty.At any rate,first step is to test for power at the relay socket.You'll learn right quick if the fusible link is suspect if you have no power there.
Yeah,either they robbed it or the truck didn't come with the tow package so the relay socket for that was left empty.At any rate,first step is to test for power at the relay socket.You'll learn right quick if the fusible link is suspect if you have no power there.
13.26v at the battery terminals and 13.26v @ the relay socket. Bad relay or PCM (TCM)???
Odds are very high like 99% bad relay and low odds of bad TECA like 1%.
Insert your relay and back probe the wire/pin going to the TECA.PIN D.
You might be able to insert the relay just enough so you can get your meter's/test light probe to share the relay socket with your relay and your pin,if not,you'll need to get behind the socket with your probe.
Alternatively,you could pull the TECA harness and test for power there with your relay inserted and the key ON.
(PIN 57/RED wire for 92-94 IDI trucks at least.)
If your getting no power to the TECA with the relay inserted,this means the relay is bad most likely (or broken wire between relay and TECA,very unlikely)
Alternatively,you could simply toss in another relay and see what happens.If you don't have one,you can jump pins C (which should be powered at all times) OR pin A (which should be powered with the key on) WITH pin D with a short jumper wire and look to see if the OD cancel light is no longer glowing dim.If it isn't,you should be able to drive the truck issue free again (remove jumper wire after testing). Insert a new relay to fix the problem before driving truck again.
If you jump power to the TECA and the issue still isn't resolved,then next step would be to inspect the ground at the TECA.
I probably would snip all those socket wires to the oddball relay,run to the auto store and grab a normal universal relay socket and relay.Rewire the new socket in and insert the common relay.I wouldn't live with an oddball relay socket that wouldn't just take a common relay.
Or.....;; I could just pull into the NAPA parking lot and replace the relay. if it works great! if not $16 wasted, I have a spare, and I can buy the TECA (TCM.) the sun has set here and I am disabled so I'm spent.
6.There is no 3rd gear when manually shifted from 2nd then to D to limp the truck home.Though it feels this way,it's actually only converter lock and OD.
That's not quite right. With no power to the TECA, there is only second and fourth gears possible. The torque converter cannot lock without the TECA commanding it to lock and energizing the solenoid.
Odds are very high like 99% bad relay and low odds of bad TECA like 1%.
Insert your relay and back probe the wire/pin going to the TECA.PIN D.
You might be able to insert the relay just enough so you can get your meter's/test light probe to share the relay socket with your relay and your pin,if not,you'll need to get behind the socket with your probe.
Alternatively,you could pull the TECA harness and test for power there with your relay inserted and the key ON.
(PIN 57/RED wire for 92-94 IDI trucks at least.)
If your getting no power to the TECA with the relay inserted,this means the relay is bad most likely (or broken wire between relay and TECA,very unlikely)
Alternatively,you could simply toss in another relay and see what happens.If you don't have one,you can jump pins C (which should be powered at all times) OR pin A (which should be powered with the key on) WITH pin D with a short jumper wire and look to see if the OD cancel light is no longer glowing dim.If it isn't,you should be able to drive the truck issue free again (remove jumper wire after testing). Insert a new relay to fix the problem before driving truck again.
If you jump power to the TECA and the issue still isn't resolved,then next step would be to inspect the ground at the TECA.
I probably would snip all those socket wires to the oddball relay,run to the auto store and grab a normal universal relay socket and relay.Rewire the new socket in and insert the common relay.I wouldn't live with an oddball relay socket that wouldn't just take a common relay.
The new relay had no effect whatsoever. I went back and confirmed again but there is power to the relay. I'm going to start searching beyond that for any problems but I've ordered the new controller already it will arrive tomorrow.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
