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The 2V cyl head spark plug ports threads are too short, ...
That and dissimilar metals corrosion leading to plug extraction galling the cyl head threads. Carbon buildup on the 2V plug also causes removal problems as with the 3V plugs.
The heads have been redesigned since.
The 4 threads in the early design heads is "adequate".
I think the issue is more of the difference in expansion from heat between the dissimilar metals.
The plugs will work loose after many heat cycles and once loose the compression from one side pounds the threads.
The redesign in Nov. 2003 was adding more threads - 8 thread heads, which will still blow plugs, it just takes longer.
I didn't think the 2v spark plugs stick out like the 3v plugs, so there shouldn't be any carbon buildup.
Well, No.1 FORD specifically advises not to and whatever falls into the cylinder may not be able to be withdrawn through the spark plug hole.
I am aware that Ford advises against doing such. However, he is limited on options. If he could come up with something like the Ford kit for 3V porcelain removal that MIGHT work. However I don't see that happening. The Ford kit is expensive to buy just to see if it MIGHT work. From my experience it works about 50% of the time and thats if you do it right and let the loctite cure long enough at just the right temperature. Otherwise your wasting time. Our Ford kit at work hasn't been used in years for this very reason. The Lisle kit works almost every time and does exactly what Ford says not to do. Also the Ford kit does not work if the center electrode is still in the broken piece.
The recommendation I made comes with a risk, hence why I said to be VERY careful when pushing the porcelain down. When you find yourself in poor situations like this sometimes you have to take a risk. And I agree, if that porcelain goes down into the cylinder as a big chunk, your not going to fish it out the spark plug hole. The head will have to come off.
To the OP: Did the center electrode come out with the portion of the plug that broke off or is it still down in the head with the other piece?
The Lisle kit works almost every time and does exactly what Ford says not to do. Also the Ford kit does not work if the center electrode is still in the broken piece.
Exactly which LISLE KIT are you referring to (PN)?
Originally Posted by KULTULZ
FORD released a SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL KIT to address this problem with the 3V where the insulator would break off in the same fashion as this 2V engine. It involves screwing a pin into the old plug with LOCTITE and then being able to then extract the insulator allowing an easy out to be used.
I would think ... ... (open to debate) that this method can also be used on the 2V.
If you try and drive the insulator down enough to use an easy-out, the insulator may drop into the cylinder creating one hating life, beer drinking and wife beating scenario.
Now the downside to this is the kit goes for five hundred bucks but an aftermarket tool is available for thirty (I would a$$-u-me) this would be a one-time use tool.
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