When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Greetings Ford Owners,I really need some advise. I have a 2004 2-valve Triton engine with the number seven spark plug that snapped off right below the hex. Bottom threaded part still in head with porcelain stuck in it. I believe the plug shell deteriorated due to water getting down in the plug well. How do I get the porcelain out so I can use an Ez-out to remove the remaining part without getting the porcelain inside the combustion chamber. I cut apart an old plug and it appears that there is a step-down that prevents the porcelain from going further down. The plugs were the 2004 factory originals, and the other seven came out with no issues. I really don't want to go to the Ford dealer for a repair. I apologize if this has already been covered. Thanks
You guys must not have read his post well enough. He has a 2V Triton engine, not the 3V with the sticking plugs. If any of the porcelain is above the top of the threads you could try and grab onto it with something. However thats not likely to work due to the position of the plug and how brittle porcelain is. Your better chance is to try and drive the porcelain down enough that you can get an extractor into the threaded section. Just be careful to not drive it too far down or it will drop into the cylinder. If that doesn't work you might be looking at pulling the head off....
The 2v and 3v use completely different spark plug designs, with the 2v using a more traditional spark plug design. Though we know the threads can be problematic.
Since the spark plug is deeply recessed in the head the only hope is a narrow six point socket, Or possibly drilling and using an easy-out. Good luck.
FORD released a SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL KIT to address this problem with the 3V where the insulator would break off in the same fashion as this 2V engine. It involves screwing a pin into the old plug with LOCTITE and then being able to then extract the insulator allowing an easy out to be used.
I would think ... ... (open to debate) that this method can also be used on the 2V.
If you try and drive the insulator down enough to use an easy-out, the insulator may drop into the cylinder creating one hating life, beer drinking and wife beating scenario.
Now the downside to this is the kit goes for five hundred bucks but an aftermarket tool is available for thirty (I would a$$-u-me) this would be a one-time use tool.
... If you try and drive the insulator down enough to use an easy-out, the insulator may drop into the cylinder creating one hating life ...
Why would this be a big problem?
Once the threaded part of the plug was removed with an easy out the opening would be large enough to easily extract the insulator.
Just use a shop vac with a thin wall hose taped to the nozzle.
Same technique used to removed aluminum shavings when installing a TimeSert.
The 2v and 3v use completely different spark plug designs, with the 2v using a more traditional spark plug design. Though we know the threads can be problematic. ....
While not as frequent there are reports of 3v and 2v 8 thread head spark plugs blowing out.
The threads aren't the problem, it's leaving the plugs in long enough for them to work loose.
While not as frequent there are reports of 3v and 2v 8 thread head spark plugs blowing out.
The threads aren't the problem, it's leaving the plugs in long enough for them to work loose.
OK, on the 2v 6.8...what would be a safe time frame/mileage to change the plugs to avoid the dreaded blow-out?
OK, on the 2v 6.8...what would be a safe time frame/mileage to change the plugs to avoid the dreaded blow-out?
There are tons of threads and opinions. Many believe that the threads are cut strange, and with that only use a Motorcraft spark plug.
I had 50,000 on a set of Bosch when one blew out of my 2000, though I also retorqued them a few times. On a second motor, I had Motorcraft spark plugs and one blew out at 7000 miles.
There are tons of threads and opinions. Many believe that the threads are cut strange, and with that only use a Motorcraft spark plug.
I had 50,000 on a set of Bosch when one blew out of my 2000, though I also retorqued them a few times. On a second motor, I had Motorcraft spark plugs and one blew out at 7000 miles.
OK, on the 2v 6.8...what would be a safe time frame/mileage to change the plugs to avoid the dreaded blow-out?
I change plugs/boots at 50k and check the torque one more time at 10k, but I haven't had any loosen.
Our early 2003 Exped 5.4L with 4 thread heads has gone 170k with no problems.
We bought our 2002 Excur 6.8L with 104k and had #3 blow out at 108k.
All the OEM plugs on bank 1 were a tad loose.
Repaired with a Timesert and have 160k with no more issues.
I use Motorcraft plugs and Denso boots.
From what I've read the OEM plugs were torqued to 17 ft-lbs, I use 25 ft-lbs.
I have a 2004 2-valve Triton engine with the number seven spark plug that snapped off right below the hex. Bottom threaded part still in head with porcelain stuck in it. I believe the plug shell deteriorated due to water getting down in the plug well.
How do I get the porcelain out so I can use an Ez-out to remove the remaining part without getting the porcelain inside the combustion chamber. I cut apart an old plug and it appears that there is a step-down that prevents the porcelain from going further down. The plugs were the 2004 factory originals, and the other seven came out with no issues
Originally Posted by Evan_P
If any of the porcelain is above the top of the threads you could try and grab onto it with something. However thats not likely to work due to the position of the plug and how brittle porcelain is. Your better chance is to try and drive the porcelain down enough that you can get an extractor into the threaded section. Just be careful to not drive it too far down or it will drop into the cylinder.
Originally Posted by KULTULZ
If you try and drive the insulator down enough to use an easy-out, the insulator may drop into the cylinder
Originally Posted by R&T Babich
Why would this be a big problem?
Once the threaded part of the plug was removed with an easy out the opening would be large enough to easily extract the insulator.
Just use a shop vac
Well, No.1 FORD specifically advises not to and whatever falls into the cylinder may not be able to be withdrawn through the spark plug hole.
While not as frequent there are reports of 3v and 2v 8 thread head spark plugs blowing out.
The threads aren't the problem, it's leaving the plugs in long enough for them to work loose.
The 2V cyl head spark plug ports threads are too short, that and an incorrect spark plug torque value rating.
That and dissimilar metals corrosion leading to plug extraction galling the cyl head threads. Carbon buildup on the 2V plug also causes removal problems as with the 3V plugs.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.