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I need to replace one or more of the PEX lines in my trailer. Direct access to the critical spot in the pipe is going to be very difficult so I'm considering cutting the line at either end where access is easier.
The line says 1/2" on it. Does that mean 1/2" outer diameter or inner diameter? I should have put the calipers on it to verify but the trailer is at the storage lot now.
What tools do I need to do the job? Cutters and crimpers? Any suggestions on brand/model would be helpful. I suspect that this won't be the last time I have to replace PEX so good quality tools are what I'm looking for.
Very simple. Get a cutter in the plumbing section of Lowes or Home Depot in plumbing tools. Use 1/2" Shark Bites or Sea Tech for the connection (Sea Tech are more expensive and do not use an inner sleeve in the PEX). Just slip them on. Simpler than stainless steel bands and works just as well.
Depending on the cutting tool, watch for shavings inside the line as they will likely flow downstream and prevent a valve (or more) from closing. Only way to recover is disassemble or replace the valve. Don't ask how I know
Right on, read the label to be sure, but I haven't seen any that don't list PEX. The cutting tool has an edge like a knife so there are no shavings. Just a clean straight cut.
Great info guys. Thanks a lot. I need to get this fixed ASAP as it is preventing me from winterizing my trailer (again). There's a story behind this but I need to determine the extent of the damage before I tell it.
Push a gob of silicone into each end of the abandoned line. This will keep bugs from nesting and be a great reminder 10 years from now as to why there is a water line under there that isn't hooked up to anything.
Never let it be said that I'm an underachiever. When I break something I don't do it in a small way. I drilled through the lines while running 1 gauge cable for my inverter.
I had to "remove" two wall panels (Luan) to get to the lines. I used about 30" of white and 30" of red PEX line along with the Sharkbite fittings. There were some OEM fittings behind the wall that I wasn't prepared for so I had to splice in the new line while keeping the existing fittings.
Well, there was something that really needed to be fixed. Much better than just some little drip.
Steve
I probably still have a drip but it's in a different component (fresh water tank). I may have to pick your brain on that.
I used a couple of valve joints when I did the repair to the lines. That way I can independently shut off water to a section of the trailer. I have a hot water line going in the complete opposite direction of where all the other lines were going. That one has me scratching my head. I'm going to have to trace it down today to satisfy my curiosity.
I used the annealed copper crimp fittings and a crimp tool from Menards on a house I’m replumbing.
I recently bought some stainless steel crimp fittings and the corresponding crimp tool for the trailer.
Harbor Freight has a cheap cutting tool, but it broke almost immediately, so I picked up a cutter from Menards. It cost more, but i’ve made dozens of cuts with no problems.
Crimp fittings are an order of magnitude cheaper than the shark bites, and the cost of the crimper only hurts once.
I used the annealed copper crimp fittings and a crimp tool from Menards on a house I’m replumbing.
I recently bought some stainless steel crimp fittings and the corresponding crimp tool for the trailer.
Harbor Freight has a cheap cutting tool, but it broke almost immediately, so I picked up a cutter from Menards. It cost more, but i’ve made dozens of cuts with no problems.
Crimp fittings are an order of magnitude cheaper than the shark bites, and the cost of the crimper only hurts once.
Agree, I use both, but crimp rings can be awkward to use in tight spaces and Shark Bites are easier and faster. Hopefully most folks will never need to make PEX repairs. The industry uses crimp rings because they are making connections before things are in place and they are indeed a lot cheaper.
I used a couple of valve joints when I did the repair to the lines. That way I can independently shut off water to a section of the trailer.
Kudos on making the system more fault tolerant Wish that this was done from the factory as it is*way* to easy to do during construction. No real economic reason not to do it as the additional parts and labor, at best, would come to maybe 1/100'th of a percent of the purchase price on a new rig, less as the sales price goes up.
Did once stumble across a motor coach with a water 'distribution center' in the belly where it was possible to isolate the water circuits from an easy access location. But happen to know that the rig cost ~$250K in early 2000's dollars.
Oh, and better to drill into a water line than a power line with live current
Originally Posted by HRTKD
I probably still have a drip but it's in a different component (fresh water tank).
Maybe the fresh water tank's drain plug? For reference, my tank has two drain plugs, one with a valve external to the tank that I can manually open. The second one is on the belly of the tank that I have to access by removing a belly panel and pulling away the insulation. (The tank hangs above a thin metal belly enclosure with insulation.) Had the OE belly plug rot and leak where a run to the local hardware store for a simple plastic thread-in sewer / clean-out plug (IIRC 1-1/2") was the cure.
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