Battery cable replacement
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2017
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Battery cable replacement
193xxx 94 f150 4.9 e4od
So I'm getting a couple issues which through my uneducated guess am thinking are related to my battery cables.
I'll cut to the chase: my cable terminals don't tighten (I have no idea how old they are) they fit on snugly but with a bit of wiggling come off. They can't be tightened or loosened.
I recently replaced the battery ( less than a month), also recently replaced the starter solenoid (3 Mons maybe). Alternator starter and current battery supposedly good according to the gizmos all the local auto parts stores have.
the symptom I'm having is occasionally I will turn to KOEO and everything comes on then on KEOR I get one crank and everything shuts off. And I don't have electricity anymore. Electricity is restored by popping off the negative cable and replacing it.
also the engine always takes a bit longer to crank than I would really want it to, 3-5 seconds holding the key. Although every now and again it will fire right up like my 2016 Hyundai.
I'm getting a lot of different parts when looking for a direct replacement to my battery cables. Anybody able to give me a direct link to one? Should I replace anything else while I'm at it?
So I'm getting a couple issues which through my uneducated guess am thinking are related to my battery cables.
I'll cut to the chase: my cable terminals don't tighten (I have no idea how old they are) they fit on snugly but with a bit of wiggling come off. They can't be tightened or loosened.
I recently replaced the battery ( less than a month), also recently replaced the starter solenoid (3 Mons maybe). Alternator starter and current battery supposedly good according to the gizmos all the local auto parts stores have.
the symptom I'm having is occasionally I will turn to KOEO and everything comes on then on KEOR I get one crank and everything shuts off. And I don't have electricity anymore. Electricity is restored by popping off the negative cable and replacing it.
also the engine always takes a bit longer to crank than I would really want it to, 3-5 seconds holding the key. Although every now and again it will fire right up like my 2016 Hyundai.
I'm getting a lot of different parts when looking for a direct replacement to my battery cables. Anybody able to give me a direct link to one? Should I replace anything else while I'm at it?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,227
Likes: 4
From: Washington
I would replace the terminals for both cables, then clean corrosion off the battery lugs. Cut the cable as close to the old terminals as possible.
I prefer terminals like these; I don't need tools to disconnect them.
I prefer terminals like these; I don't need tools to disconnect them.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
From: Philly
Rockauto probably still sells the ford ground cable and that solved all my problems exactly as you described them. The cable bolts to a spot on the frame, the engine, and of course the battery. I think it was $35 and worth every penny.
The frame connection is supposedly to aid in grounding trailer lights. I couldn't get the bugger back in and left it off with no issues.
The frame connection is supposedly to aid in grounding trailer lights. I couldn't get the bugger back in and left it off with no issues.
Senior User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 121
Likes: 1
If the cables will come off the posts, they're too loose. mrollings called it; go to WalMart or AutoZone and get some new terminals for the cables, then you should be good to go.
BTW, I wouldn't keep trying it with loose terminals; eventually it'll start arcing between the terminals and posts, and will erode the posts. My dad has a John Deere 4010 that's really bad about that.
BTW, I wouldn't keep trying it with loose terminals; eventually it'll start arcing between the terminals and posts, and will erode the posts. My dad has a John Deere 4010 that's really bad about that.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 4
From: NC
Tinned copper terminals either crimped or soldered with heatshrink or a quality pre made cable are about the only viable options. Genuinedealz.com has quality lugs, heatshrink and terminals cheap, free shipping, carquest or Napa for cable. Hammer crimp or solder. Rock Auto sells
nice pre made battery cables for a good price​.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2017
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Are these the correct cables and is the price fair?
Positive:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CBL718036
Negative:
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS A654CLT Info
https://autoplicity.com/9938394-stan...-battery-cable
There is an image on the link above, but rockauto has it at 22.79 .
I would rather replace the entire cables than just the terminals. God only knows how long they have been in and if they aren't corroded.
Positive:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CBL718036
Negative:
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS A654CLT Info
https://autoplicity.com/9938394-stan...-battery-cable
There is an image on the link above, but rockauto has it at 22.79 .
I would rather replace the entire cables than just the terminals. God only knows how long they have been in and if they aren't corroded.
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