Starting issues 1983 F100
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2009
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Starting issues 1983 F100
I turn the key and I get "Click". The first time it did it I messed with the positive battery cable and got it to work. This was about three weeks ago. It did it again so I cut the battery cable, got rid of some corroded cable, and reconnected it. It started right up. A couple days later it started acting up again. This time i replaced the battery. Again it starts right up. The next day it doesn't start again. I took some voltage and amperage-drain measurements and it appeared to be draining. The alternator was warm to touch so I figured bad diodes. After an ordeal I get the alternator changed, put the battery in, hook everything up, turn the key and "click". I jump the truck and it starts up. Drive around for a while, come back and it starts right up. Five minutes later it starts. Another five minutes and click. So now what? Is it the starter? What else is left? There doesn't seem to be a drain on the battery now. How do I check the starter with a multimeter? This is really getting old. Thanks
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
You have a bad connection, and it could be at the battery on either post, in the cables, at the solenoid on either side, in the ground connections, or at the starter.
The way to test is by placing your DVM across each connection as you start/try to start the truck. You should be in the 20 volt range and you should see essentially no voltage across any connection. My guess is that it is in the ground side as you just replaced (I think) the positive cable. But somewhere you have a bad connection.
But, instead of testing I would pull the cables and clean every connection. And check the cables while they are loose for internal problems as many cable die from the inside out.
The way to test is by placing your DVM across each connection as you start/try to start the truck. You should be in the 20 volt range and you should see essentially no voltage across any connection. My guess is that it is in the ground side as you just replaced (I think) the positive cable. But somewhere you have a bad connection.
But, instead of testing I would pull the cables and clean every connection. And check the cables while they are loose for internal problems as many cable die from the inside out.
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Cross-Country
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Thanks for the insight. That would be great if it is a bad connection. I did completely replace the positive battery cable. I also bypassed the solenoid to eliminate that as being the cause. Still got the click. So a bad negative battery cable can cause this issue? Why can I start the truck with a jump from another vehicle? Is it just the extra amps coming through? Thanks for the help.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
Good question about starting with a jumper. Assuming you are placing the jumper cables on the positive and negative battery cable connectors, you are eliminating two of the vehicle connections - the battery post/connector ones. Since you, hopefully, cleaned the positive terminal when you replaced that cable it suggests the negative connection is bad.
As for negative connections being able to do it, absolutely. The current has to get back to the battery once it gets to the starter, so if a ground is bad it can't.
As for negative connections being able to do it, absolutely. The current has to get back to the battery once it gets to the starter, so if a ground is bad it can't.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
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From: Lost
The negative cable runs from the battery to the engine, but also has a stop at the frame along the way. I would suggest getting a cable that is as close to the original length as possible, and then getting one of those braided "ground straps" to run from the engine to the frame. This can help avoid other issues popping up down the road.......
But, I agree, your issue does sound like a bad connection somewhere.
But, I agree, your issue does sound like a bad connection somewhere.
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I'm going to go out on a limb here and suggest that your bad alternator killed your battery.
It's fine just after the alternator has finished charging it.
It sits for a bit and doesn't have enough amperage to turn the truck over.
Have the battery tested with a load tester.
It may just have a surface charge that shows as good.
One way to do this yourself is to use the starter as a load.
Let the truck sit a half hour and put your voltmeter across the battery terminals.
Jumper the hot lead to the little trigger terminal on the solenoid while watching the meter.
When the solenoid clicks, what happens to the battery voltage?
Does it go from 12.5+ down to 10 or less?
If you don't fix this it will fuse the contacts in the solenoid.
It's fine just after the alternator has finished charging it.
It sits for a bit and doesn't have enough amperage to turn the truck over.
Have the battery tested with a load tester.
It may just have a surface charge that shows as good.
One way to do this yourself is to use the starter as a load.
Let the truck sit a half hour and put your voltmeter across the battery terminals.
Jumper the hot lead to the little trigger terminal on the solenoid while watching the meter.
When the solenoid clicks, what happens to the battery voltage?
Does it go from 12.5+ down to 10 or less?
If you don't fix this it will fuse the contacts in the solenoid.
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Cross-Country
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The battery was tested just prior to hooking up to the new alternator. It was good. I'm not sure the original alternator was bad. May have been, but not sure now. If cable cleaning and/or replacement doesn't clear up the issue I will check the battery again.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
If the alternator was warm and the battery kept dying, it WAS bad.
Do check the battery under load.
It will tell you a lot.
When starters go bad they start by acting up when hot.
This would not explain why it will start right up, but not is 15 minutes.
Unless it is heat soak.
If you let it sit overnight will it start right up in the morning?
Do check the battery under load.
It will tell you a lot.
When starters go bad they start by acting up when hot.
This would not explain why it will start right up, but not is 15 minutes.
Unless it is heat soak.
If you let it sit overnight will it start right up in the morning?
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Cross-Country
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Got home today ready to figure this out. Open the car door and the cab light was really dim. Disconnect the battery and check it out - 8.53 v. Great, it is still draining somewhere. I went ahead and cleaned off the negative/ground cables. Cables didn't look bad but cleaned them and their connections. I guess I now start pulling fuses? Not everything is listed on my fuse box cover, such as windshield wipers (noticed yesterday they didn't work - but the windshield washer did). I'm not confident in this at all at this point. When I have been checking for amperage draw with my multimeter nothing is registering. I really want to use my truck again.
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Cross-Country
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I think we got it tonight. My son was trying to help troubleshoot what we thought would be a starter issue, but it just didn't add up. The battery actually had 11.7v tonight so it was enough to check for voltage drops. Turns out the starter solenoid was leaking volts all over the place. I ran to the store, made the change, put on the jumper cables and she started right up. A couple hours later I went back out, turned the key, and again she started right up. Hopefully the problems are behind me now and I can start using the truck again. Thanks for everyone's help!