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I searched around here for a while but could find no info on converting a 6v system to electronic ignition. I am thinking better more consistent spark will help my truck start easier. Too often i am cranking and cranking till the battery is almost dead. New carb, electronic fuel pump so I am beginning to suspect the ingnition. I also want to keep the truck 6 volt. We won the war on 6 volt! Still has to be good.
Cables are sized 00? Grounds are clean & tight? It should light off fine using points. Maybe a little slower cranking than 12 volts of course, but it should start without drama. I'd be inclined to figure out why, and fix it. One thing I've read on some of the forums by users is that the 6 volt Pertronix modules (12 volt modules work great) are problematic, for some reason.
I agree, 6 volt should and does work fine if everything is correct. Putting electronic ignition on it will juse mask the problem. Double check.the grounds, even the ground the starter switch has.
Does this look right? The positive is going to the solenoid. The negative to the front of the block. The replacements at Macs Ford has a 17” black tarred + cable (need about 10” here) and a 12” metal strap for the ground and we need a good 20”.
Also, could not find a solenoid to starter cable anywhere that would be ‘original’. Most of the wiring is restored original type and I want to keep it that way. Clearly what is here is not original
Somewhere along the line, it has been switched to negative ground. Does it charge the battery? But to the question at hand. At first blush I would say you need to throw those cables away and have some made at napa that don't use those cheap clamp ends. They need to be soldered connections. What you have.there is asking for trouble. Furthermore, the surface that the starter mates to and on the starter itself needs to be buffed clean. Why, that is the ground path for the starter circuit. These types of things add up on a 6 volt system and end up making a profound differance. Remember, after all this current drain from spinning it over, you still.have to have eno ugh juice for spark. So, if you use it all to spin starter because of cruddy connections, that much less available for spark.
I’m pretty sure it charges, but then with nothing electric running and not using lights those batteries could last a while on a good charge. I think I checked the generator before and found it putting out more than the battery at rest so indicating charge. Amp meter seems to work on dash too.
I was was afraid this might be positive ground. Maybe they did that to run an electric fuel pump.
Ive rebuilt carb and put in a new mechanical pump so maybe I could go back to positive ground.
Meanwhile thanks for for the tip on NAPA, been there for hydraulic lines but never battery cables
Grounds and electrical connections are definitely a maintenance item. Those "clamp on cable" battery terminals are OK in an emergency but won't work for very long. Generator equipped trucks need physically big batteries, cold cranking amps isn't the whole story. Unlike alternators generators don't do very much charging at idle or stop and go driving, night driving, at times the entire electrical system is supported solely by the battery, if it is weak it will get smoked in short order.
One question - aren't the Pertronix 6 volt modules designed for positive ground? Something to keep in mind. I don't know how true it is, but supposedly ignition coils that have been run with one polarity don't take kindly to swapping over, they will work but the spark output isn't what it once was. Something about the inner iron core getting magnetized or somesuch. I read that from Jim Lindner, who runs Bubba's Ignition.
My thought for "crank and crank". Time for a physical exam... because it does turn
over maybe slow but does turn. My daily driver example; it is 10 degrees (car outside)
6vt pos ground - two pumps choke out 1/2 way, yes being that cold it turns slower than
being summer time but 1/2 a turn its running yes it has the terminals like yours too.
Example #2 same cold temp my 1923 Ford turns over like mud. Pull choke turn over
once (Key off) turn key on step on starter -- its running ! Old Model T stories back in
the day lighting fires under crankcase jacking rear wheels draining coolant then pouring
hot water in the thing. must have been real late for work??? Ok no starter, lets hand
crank 1/2 stroke on the crank its running. I write all of this because all has to be up
to snuff. Rules of the engine world= compression, air, fuel and fire & any one of those
four there will be a problem. No electronic ignition will not correct leaky valves or poor
compression...........just sayin sam
Pertronix makes a 6v POS ground system. Like Big Job says. Electronic ignition aint.going to fix it. That truck needs a finger up the tailpipe , i.e. a good check up. Fix the things we mentioned. Big 0t or double Ot size cables, soldered ends, clean starter mounting area. While you are at it , clean and set plugs. I use autolite 437 in mine , gapped .30 because I don't drive it that long at once. I wouldnt worry about POS or negative ground. It seems to be working and leave it alone. Someone mentioned about big 6 volt batteries, and they are right. Everything they said about it. Check your systems, starting and ignition and even fuel and I am sure you will get it licked . Adjust your carb to max vacume at idle will really help too.
