I am on my first diesel truck a 2004 F350 Super Duty. It is a 6.0l Diesel with 120K miles. My issue started last week with the WIF and Glow Plug coming on for about 2-5 seconds. When that happened the truck dropped to an Idle. Once the lights went out, the power was restored. This happened 1 time every day or 2. Seemed to maybe happen when the engine was cooler. We went camping over the weekend, and I pulled out pop up camper (4000 - 5000 lbs) up north. By the time we got to the camp ground the camper was running rough. It was dark and I could not tell if it was smoking or not. We drove it once or twice over the weekend, and did not notice anything other than it was running a little rough. After driving out to dinner, it seemed fine on the way back. When I started the truck on Sunday morning I noticed white exhaust (smoke?) coming out. It was cool out, so I thought it may not be an issue. The truck was still running rough. We made a stop for lunch, and I noticed that it was smoking (white). When we came out after lunch The truck was running rough, and smoking some. I tried to enter the highway and there was no power. I pushed the gas peddle to the floor and it just idled roughly. No sense of added diesel fuel to increase the RPM's. I got onto the side of the road and looked under the hood. I could not see anything out of the ordinary. Checked fluids and they looked good. I let it sit for about 15 minutes or so, and then started it. It seemed to run smoother, although the white smoke was maybe getting worse. I pulled out on the highway, and noticed when getting on the gas to pick up speed, the smoke turned jet black. It would be white when driving and then turn to black when accelerating. I have read about draining the water from the WIF, and possibly changing the fuel filters. Any other ideas or thoughts on what may be going on?

The only change recently is I changed the oil. The previous owner used AMS Oil, and I changed to Shell Rotella T6

 

You need to scan for codes, and get something for reading live data.

 

What tool(s) do you recommend for obtaining the codes?

 

What do you recommend for scanning?

 

Any shop should be able to pull codes for you, if you're in a hurry.
But you also should look at FORScan or Torque. Both are mobile phone apps that pair with a device plugged into your OBD port. They can read codes and monitor live data. Start searching, you'll find lots of info.

 

Don't forget the Scanguage 2 AKA:SGII. You can pick it up at Autozone
for around $160ish. Then you program in the Ford PIDs that
way want to watch. It's not very good for codes but does well
if you need it NOW and at startup if you can't wait for the ELM
devices to connect to your smartphone or tablet.

 

I finally picked up a code scanner/reader (Performax), and came up empty. I didnt do any live scanning, but just the ignition on scan with our starting the truck. After scanning I drained the HFCM thinking there may be water in there. I have not driven the truck since I first posted on her about a month ago. I did run it for a while today to test it. The truck blows some white smoke when idling, and turns to black when I get on the gas.
I am using a K&N filter, and removed this afternoon to clean it. It is taking longer to dry with the cooler temps here in MN. Once it is ready, I will install it again and test it. I was thinking about changing both fuel filters next to see how that helps.

I was thinking/fearing that I may have a (or more than one) bad injector, but thought I would see that on the scan.

Any further advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

This is not a “maybe it will go away” motor. When things go bad this motor can destroy itself real quick, being a diesel. Water in fuel and glow plugs can be very expensive warnings. So when there are warning signs they need to be addressed competently in short order, unless you’ve got $15k burning a hole in your wallet.

I’ve never seen a Performax scanner recommended here, lanneinbc gave two good recommendations. But I think you need more, someone who has access to a Ford IDS who can check the injectors uncompensated, and now at least check the motor for relative compression. This motor is way complicated in its engine control so there may be other issues causing your problems and an IDS would be the best way to sort that out. A code reader is not going to do this. You may have to visit a Ford dealer.

I’d skip the fuel filters.

 

You need a better code reader/data scanner. Where did you get this one? The ones that come from auto parts stores will just read basic info.
Won’t get your 6.0 data needed to figure this out.

 

Ok, I picked up an reader for the OBD port and the Torque App. It takes some setting up, and I am curious what gauges you recommend to get what I need from the scan. I want to see what data I can get before deciding to take it to a dealer for a scan.

 

First thing is to simply look for the stored codes. I assume it starts and runs, so you are getting adequate injector pressures, etc.
Perhaps FICM voltages, battery voltages.

 

I ran a pre-start check, post start, and then after 30 seconds. It was about 16 degrees F when I was testing the truck. Seems that both the Oil Temp and the Coolant temps were not reading correctly, as the truck has not even been started for over a month.

The first picture is the pre-start with the key on.


The next picture is just after starting the truck:


The last picture is after running for about 30 seconds:

 

Was the truck plugged in before starting or was that a cold soak? Looks like it was plugged in to me.

 

With the 16 degree temps I did have it plugged in. I guess that would account for the oil temp, but the I was not expecting that on the coolant temp.

So, back to the original issue. Do you see anything out of wack? I am picking up things from this site, and am looking for input from others.

 

Actually your ECT will be higher than the EOT because the block heater heats the coolant which in turn heats the oil. Coolant is easier to heat than oil. Think of it like an electric heated hot tub. Everything else on the gauges you have look normal. I would also add the IPR%. Your ICP is high because your still in the warm up stage. See if you can get it to Operating temp then let’s look again.