Crank no start issue
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New User
Joined: Aug 2017
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
Crank no start issue
Folks,
I've read a ton of posts and can't seem to come up with one that mirrors my situation.
My truck had been idling in my driveway for 5 minutes or so. It seemed to gradually slow down in RPMs for 20-30 seconds. I got in and pushed the accelerator. It changed very little and eventually died. Would not restart after several attempts. Seems to want to catch hear and there.
Details: WTS comes on. Tach registers with starter running. Oil pressure comes up with starter running. Plenty of smoke out of tail pipe. No check engine light.
What I've done:
Checked fuel filter. Pretty new but changed it. Bowl did not have much fuel in it.
Ran KoEo test with AE scantool. Passed.
Ran Buzz test. Passed.
During cranking, I have over 12V, over 3000 PSI ICP, 3-4mS Fuel Pulse width and its cranking at a little over 200 RPM.
I have not checked fuel pressure.
I had convinced myself that the CPS was easy and cheap to change but seems most agree I'd have no functioning tach if it was bad.
There are no codes set on the PCM.
Any thought on next couple steps?
Thanks,
Chris
I've read a ton of posts and can't seem to come up with one that mirrors my situation.
My truck had been idling in my driveway for 5 minutes or so. It seemed to gradually slow down in RPMs for 20-30 seconds. I got in and pushed the accelerator. It changed very little and eventually died. Would not restart after several attempts. Seems to want to catch hear and there.
Details: WTS comes on. Tach registers with starter running. Oil pressure comes up with starter running. Plenty of smoke out of tail pipe. No check engine light.
What I've done:
Checked fuel filter. Pretty new but changed it. Bowl did not have much fuel in it.
Ran KoEo test with AE scantool. Passed.
Ran Buzz test. Passed.
During cranking, I have over 12V, over 3000 PSI ICP, 3-4mS Fuel Pulse width and its cranking at a little over 200 RPM.
I have not checked fuel pressure.
I had convinced myself that the CPS was easy and cheap to change but seems most agree I'd have no functioning tach if it was bad.
There are no codes set on the PCM.
Any thought on next couple steps?
Thanks,
Chris
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 12
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
Thanks Folks. I did not check the oil reservoir but do have plenty of pressure so that didn't seem likely issue. There is currently a little less than a quarter tank of fuel. My tank selector is not working so can't change tanks.
This whole time I've been thinking it really acted like it ran out of fuel. Maybe it's the darn gauge that failed but seems like plenty of un-burnt fuel coming out of the tail pipe. When I replaced the filter I filled the bowl. I'd have thought it would have started at least momentarily.
Will check fuel pressure and HPOP reservoir tonight. I was surprised there no puel pressure meter in the Scantool.
Thanks again for the input.
Chris
This whole time I've been thinking it really acted like it ran out of fuel. Maybe it's the darn gauge that failed but seems like plenty of un-burnt fuel coming out of the tail pipe. When I replaced the filter I filled the bowl. I'd have thought it would have started at least momentarily.
Will check fuel pressure and HPOP reservoir tonight. I was surprised there no puel pressure meter in the Scantool.
Thanks again for the input.
Chris
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 12
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
So I get zero fuel pressure at the test point. So fuel pump is bad? There's no electrical component in the mix correct?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: western SD
You might try dumping 5 gallons of fuel in the tank. The shower head strainer in the tank can rot off leaving you "out of fuel" with the gauge still showing fuel, usually around the 1/8 to 1/4 level.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2016
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From: Bahstun
if stock, there is only a mechanical pump
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Aug 2017
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
Regarding the HPOP reservoir... Someone apparently used a breaker bar to install the damn thing. Can't get the plug loose and in danger of stripping it... However, I had well over 3000 psi when measured with scantool.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
So if you're well over 1/4 tank, and no fuel pressure while cranking, then fuel pump is a prime suspect. But double-check that you're feeding from the correct tank. You mentioned the tank selector is inop. Is it the switch or the valve? One test worth trying - disconnect the supply somewhere between the selector valve and the fuel pump first stage inlet. Connect a hose that you can drop into a jerry can of fuel. See if you get fuel pressure while cranking then.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 12
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
Thanks again folks for the input. A fuel jug to the pump was my next thought.
The fuel selector was one of next couple things on my list along with the ABS light (code 12...). I tested the switch on the dash. It works. Next step was going to be testing for voltage at the valve. I had someone change the switch position and no noise from the valve and the fuel gauge didn't change. I haven't touched the switch since the no start issue happened but reading the service manual I see that circuitry is not as simple as I would have thought.
I'll try a fuel jug straight to the pump and see what happens.
Chris
The fuel selector was one of next couple things on my list along with the ABS light (code 12...). I tested the switch on the dash. It works. Next step was going to be testing for voltage at the valve. I had someone change the switch position and no noise from the valve and the fuel gauge didn't change. I haven't touched the switch since the no start issue happened but reading the service manual I see that circuitry is not as simple as I would have thought.
I'll try a fuel jug straight to the pump and see what happens.
Chris