Titan is not a silicate based sealer. It is polymer based. Big difference. I would suggest reading their website and the reviews before jumping to conclusions. That is what I did before I used their product.

I also used their engine oil stop leak. I have had good results with it also.

Ed

 

Thanks for the feedback guys. Ed thanks for being brave enough to share your experience with the Titan product. Like most of you guys I don't really like these magic fixes but technology does change the game from time to time. My biggest fear would be plugging up the oil cooler (TooManyToys thanks for sharing the pics).

At this point I'd like to diagnose whether I'm dealing with leaky head gaskets or a bad oil cooler and EGR cooler. Today I took the EGR valve out and had a look. It really wasn't very dirty. The bottom of the cavity was pretty full of finely powdered carbon but it didn't look to me like there was any antifreeze present. In one video I saw, it was said that if the EGR cooler was leaking that the carbon would be gooey or maybe even clean looking if the leak was bad enough. Today I installed a pressure gauge in the coolant system by teeing into the line that runs from the rad to the degas tank and took the truck for a run. The pressure didn't really increase much driving it normally, but when I stood on the pedal the pressure would rise fairly quickly. To me the turbo had to be working pretty hard to introduce pressure into the coolant system. After a pretty short drive I had 10 psi in the system.

Other items of note: I have replaced both the degas reservoir (was cracked) and the coolant cap. The last time I towed a 7000 lb trailer I was using cruise control and noticed twice when cresting fairly steep hills that when the turbo boost reached about 30 psi I noticed fairly thick white smoke coming out of the exhaust for maybe 2 or 3 seconds and a temperature warning came up once but cleared itself fairly shortly thereafter with the temp gauge returning to the normal area quickly. I suspect that the temp sensor probably encountered some steam. I have a Hypertech tuner with the mildest tune installed. I changed the oil recently and saw no evidence of coolant in the oil. Nor can I find any evidence of oil in the coolant. I can't smell or taste anything sweet coming from the exhaust. I have no way I know of to measure EOT etc. What do you guys use/recommend for that?

 

If you use that stuff, plan on BIG BUCKs fixing it correctly later.

 

Scan gauge II. You'll need to load the X gauges pids in , great little OBD device, dash boss , I phone app although you'll need all the OBD plug in and wires to a bigger screen , I have a I phone but yet to use it to monitor , Auto zone for the scan gauge and there is a list floating around for the pids and values . Sean are you up?

 

Get forscan,add a gauge inbetween radiator and degass tank, forscan can do about anything youll ever need on a 6.0,can go wifi bluetooth or laptop, free download,buy a elm327 no pids to deal with,plug and play.

 

If you add your general location to your profile, there may be a local that might be willing to help.

Richard

 

I suppose one could reason with this assumption, since we know Ed has success with it......use as directed and replace the oil cooler shortly thereafter since we know most likely it's going to cause some restriction.

I'm in the same boat of doing it by the book, but then I have had those moments of "screw it", like the time I used JB weld to hold the lining on a brake shoe of a 69 Buick.

No, it's not the same thing I realize, but it seems that some folks get by "cheating" the system on repairs every once in awhile.
That said I highly doubt I would have the courage to gamble on this even if it's a stellar product, at least not until there was some real world testing on 6.0's beyond this forum.

 

30lbs of boost? Isn't that treading on thin ice with a 6.0 and stock head bolts?

 

Neh 31 pd and you get a nice head print on the hood for free , it's the oil/ coolant mess that's sux to clean ,lol
All kidding aside for a moment I think I had mine around that a time or two , it's what work horses do for a living .

 

A stock 6.0 should never see anything above 28 psi. JMHO

 

Not quite the same in risk management terms, but JB has held linings onto my Ford Tractor shoes for years whereas factory linings would debond after a decade. I’ve even posted how to do it......

So Mike you get a pass from a friction material industry person.

 

LOL, thanks for the laugh and the approval Jack!

It was a Saturday afternoon, we were on vacation and I was desperate. I never did replace the shoe BTW.

 

The company bonding of friction to a shoe is a multi-step process. Steel shoes get cleaned, grit blasted, cleaned again, then dipped in a thinned bath of thermoset phenolic resin that gets B staged, its similar to the resin used in the friction material compound. ID of linings get ground and air blasted. High viscosity phenolic resin is layed on the friction, parts mated, then a sheet metal ring goes over two shoes that are set so it looks like a brake drum and two shoes. Then an expanding drum in placed in the middle to compress the shoes against the bands, and sent into an oven for some time. Same as it was done in the 30’s.

Speaking of ancient tech, Chinese company’s come in and buy all the equipment from US plant closures and send it home. But even here, this is how a lot of aftermarket pads are made, in a picture frame die set. Even Raybestos still makes their racing pads this way due to cost. But it leads to a lot of variability in density due to how much material is actually placed in the dies, and how well it’s distributed despite the pressures. OE pads haven’t been made this way in almost two decades, now done in singular cavity rotating presses. Much better for consistent density as it effects noise, performance and wear life.



D438 pads are for a Toyota pickup. It is a dirty, hot, smelly environment where it smells like overheated brakes all day long.

And let’s make sure there’s no overlap of the steelbacks so a burr doesn’t form and cause the pads to bind in the bracket.

And they are not using what we called a rake to better distribute the material in the cavity, so the ends of the pads will be punky, aka, low density.

 

Kinda like a big truck come in one of my shops,he tried to weldup a cracked brake drum on his trailer and wanted me to grind it down and reweld because his weld looked bad,he left with dot,fmcsa details and a new drum.Just when you think you seen it all.

 

Yeah, drums are not something to screw with. Every once in a great while when we ran class 8 tests through the grades at Jennerstown we had a cracked drum. That starts a whole lot of fun for both the friction and drum guys.

Most do not understand the force and stress within a drum. Heat, thermal disparity, and a whole lot of distortion causing the drum to go out of round, especially at the open end despite the added ring. The light weight drums still worry me.