Ok so I finally got all the pets needed to to rebuild my hubs and on the inner spindle nut it’s “rotating the rotor back and forth to seat the bearings @ 50ft lbs then back off 90 degrees” when I did this the nut was finger tight . Is that normal ??? Or should it be tighter ???

 

As tight as you can with your fingers. Or,just a hair tighter with a wrench. But its definitely not snugged down. I'm sure there's a spec out there.

 

Wheel Bearing Adjustment, F-150-250-350, F-Super Duty, E-150-250-350
To check the wheel bearing adjustment, raise the front of the vehicle. Then, grasp the tire at the sides, and alternately push inward and pull outward on the tire. If any looseness is felt, adjust the front wheel bearings.

Raise the vehicle until the tire clears the floor and install safety stands.
Remove the wheel cover or hub cap, if so equipped. Using a suitable tool such as a lady foot pry bar, remove the grease cap from the hub.
Wipe the excess grease from the end of the spindle. Remove the cotter pin and locknut.
Loosen the adjusting nut three turns. Attempt to obtain running clearance between the rotor brake surface and the linings by rocking the wheel, hub and rotor assembly in and out several times to push the linings away from the rotor, or by light tapping on the caliper housing or some other means that does not damage the rotor lining surfaces. DO NOT PRY ON THE CALIPER PHENOLIC PISTON. If running clearance cannot be maintained throughout bearing adjustment in Steps 5 and 6, the caliper must be removed. Refer to Section 06-03, Brake, Front Disc.
Tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut to 23-34 Nm (17-25 ft-lb) while rotating the disc brake rotor in the opposite direction.
Back the nut off approximately one half turn.
Tighten the nut to 2.03-2.26 Nm (18-20 in-lb) while rotating the disc brake rotor.
End play should be .006-.127mm (.00025-.005 inch).
Torque required to rotate the hub should be 1.13-2.82 Nm (10-25 in-lb).
Install the retainer and new cotter pin bending both ends of cotter pin around retainer. Install grease cap.
Install the caliper (if removed).
Install the wheel and tire assembly.
Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to 190 Nm (140 ft-lb).
Install the wheel cover or hub cap, if so equipped.
Before driving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal several times to restore normal braking action

 

Those look like 2WD instructions. OP has a 4X4.

 

I can’t find anything at all about the final torque and I just want to be absolutely sure that I do it the correct way . The spicer booklet I got doesn’t state anything about it really other than what I put up . I don’t want the bearings failing cause it’s to loose or to tight . So I just need to hand tighten the inner nut with the special socket , then washer , and then the outer to 150-200 ish ft lbs ???

 

You want it on the edge of loose; as little end play as possible is what I was taught. On my TTB D44 there's a pin on the inner nut that a lock washer engages, so there are discreet adjustments. I find the pin position that leaves no play, back it off two spots, it then feels a bit sloppy. Put the washer on, outer nut, tighten to around 200lb ft, and the bearing end play feels just right after that. I've found once the outer nut is tightened down the preload increases slightly, so I set the inner nut one spot looser than it seems I should.

I don't know what truck you're working on. Assuming it's a D44hd or D50.

 

He is posting on his phone, so you aren't seeing his signature.

 

So am I, along with many others, who couldn't see it anyway.

OP, in future posts, it's helpful to say what truck and axle you're working on.

 

From his signature:

I'll admit "1995 pws" tells us little about what axle is under the front end. But, his "About Me" page shows he owns an F250.

 

I apologize. EArlier in the thread i posted the 2WD procedure.

Here are the 4WD procedures, dependent on auto or manual hubs.

Front Wheel Bearing, Automatic Locking Hubs
Raise the vehicle and install safety stands.
Remove the hublock assembly. Refer to automatic locking hub removal and installation in this section.
Remove retaining lockring or C-ring and three washers. Remove cam assembly and wheel nut retaining key.
Loosen wheel bearing retainer (nut). While rotating rotor and hub, snug wheel retainer (nut) to seat wheel bearings.
Back off nut 90 degrees (1/4 turn). Tighten wheel retainer nut to 1.8 Nm (16 lb-in). If necessary, tighten nut to next hole to allow installation of retainer key.
Install retaining key into the spindle keyway by inserting the short leg into the aligned slot in nut. Press all the way into position until curved portion of retaining key is seated into counter bore of wheel retainer (nut).
Install cam assembly.
Install three washers in order:
metal washer first, plastic washer second, and splined washer last.
Install C-ring or lockring. Align legs of cam assembly for installation of hub body.
Check that the final end play of the front disc brake hub and rotor on the front wheel spindle is 0.00-0.11mm (0.000-0.004 inch).
Torque required to rotate the front disc brake hub and rotor is not to exceed 2.3 Nm (20 lb-in).
Install hublock. Tighten screws to 4-6 Nm (35-53 lb-in).
Remove safety stands. Lower vehicle.



Front Wheel Bearing, with Manual Locking Hubs
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED
T83T-1197-B Hub Locknut Wrench


Raise the vehicle and install safety stands. Remove caliper and brake pads. Refer to Section 06-03 in the Body, Chassis manual.
Remove the hublock assembly. Refer to the manual locking hub removal and installation procedures in this section.
For Bronco and all F-Series 4x4, except F-250 and F-350 built before April 1995, remove C-ring and three washers.
Remove the outer locknut with Bronco or Spanner Locknut Wrench D85T-1197-A or equivalent for F-250 and F-350. Remove the lockwasher.
Using spanner locknut wrench while rotating the front disc brake hub and rotor (1102) back and forth, tighten the inner locknut to 68 Nm (50 lb-ft) to seat the bearing.
Back off the locknut 90 degrees.
NOTE: Hole pattern of lockwasher is offset with keyway to provide half-position settings by flipping washer over to obtain closest hole.

Install the lockwasher so the key is positioned in the groove of the front wheel spindle (3105). Tighten the inner locknut, aligning the pin into the nearest lockwasher hole.






Item Part Number Description
1 — Pin (Part of Inner Locknut)
2 1195 Inner Locknut
3 1198 Lockwasher
4 1197 Outer Locknut
5 T83T-1197-B Hub Locknut Wrench
6 D85T-1197-A Spanner Locknut Wrench
A — Tighten to 68 Nm (50 Lb-Ft). Back Off 90 Degrees.
B — Tighten to 217-278 Nm (160-205 Lb-Ft)
Install the outer locknut and tighten to 217-278 Nm (160-205 lb-ft) using Hub Locknut Wrench T83T-1197-B for F-150 and Bronco or Spanner Locknut Wrench D85T-1197-A or equivalent for F-250 and F-350.
Check the final end play of the front wheel spindle. It should be 0.00-0.11mm (0.000-0.004 inch).
Torque required to rotate the front disc brake hub and rotor is not to exceed 2.3 Nm (20 lb-in).
For Bronco and all F-Series 4x4, except F-250 and F-350 built before April 1995, install three washers in order: metal washer first, plastic washer second, and splined washer third. Install C-ring.
Install the hublocks as described in this section.
Remove the safety stands. Lower the vehicle.

 

im sorry it is a 1994.5 f250 Dana 50 ttb(4600lb axle)

 

I’m converting the auto hub spindle nut over to the manual lock hubs spindle nut

 

If you haven't figured this out from reading between the lines on all of the other responses, yes, that's normal.

And just saying more clearly what others are saying more completely, there is no final torque spec for the inner nut. There's a specific procedure to follow. The final torque will be whatever it ends up being. You don't worry about that, just follow the directions.

And NO!!! you do NOT just need to hand tighten the inner nut! You need to follow the directions. Yes it ends up being about hand tight, but the whole process must be followed.

 

Ok well imma get back to it sometime this week my torque wrench broke also , thanks for the help everyone

 

I don't use a torque wrench for this. My Matco only goes to 150lb ft, so I just use a breaker bar and go "tight" on the lock nut. 180k miles of doing it that way and never wrecked a bearing. Far as I know, the D50 is just a bigger version of my D44 in terms of hub design.