Attaboy, good feedback, way to hang in there & persevere on your trouble shoot, to apparently see it through to a successful finding & ending.
Feels good to win one once in a while doesn't it!!!

 

Feels awesome to win one. I was thinking it was hopeless lol. But I knew it wasn't a total basket case because it'd run fine at times. I knew something was intermittent causing it to run crappy! Thanks for all the help. I'd done research on that code and most results were leading to the sensor obviosly but as my luck always goes my truck was the exception instead of the rule! But fingers crossed that was the issue!!

 

Any idea, or signs of how that wire came to be disconnected?

 

The only thing I can see is that the driver side O2 sensor connection has a push in style clip that goes around the loom that wasn't attached and it had tension LB/O wire and I'm assuming over time it pulled it loose. The cam sensor code is still off but I have two that came back up. P0171 and P0174. Both are system to lean codes from the O2 senosros. I've never replaced them since owning the truck and it's ran bad for a while. I wonder if its ruint the sensors. How do I test them or can I?

 

Lots of possibilities on a lean both cyl banks trouble code.
If your scan tool can read live PID feeds, have it look at all of the sensor PID's that affect fuel trim, like the MAF, IAT, both before cat converter/upstream O2 sensors switching range & speed & the short & ling term fuel trim numbers.

Since both cylinder banks are affected, you might have a vacuum leak that's affecting Both cylinder banks. Things like a leaking upper intake manifold gasket, leaking plumbing to, or a stuck open, or worn out/not sealing well PCV valve, or a dry-rotted connecting hose. The PCV hose with a 90deg bend likes to dry-rot & crack on the outside bend & that's a uncontrolled vacuum leak , or a loose fitting worn out dry-rotted grommet PCV valve fitting, that's loose fitting, leaking vacuum & corrupting fuel trim.
The PCV valve is a programmed for vacuum leak thats downstream of & thus it's flow is not monitored by the MAF sensor, if it acts out, or it's rubber plumbing develops a leak, it's a uncontrolled/unmonitored vacuum leak right into the intake manifold, thus can corrupt Both cyl banks fuel trim lean.
Dirty fuel injectors can cause a lean fuel shot & cause a lean condition.
A dirty MAF sensor can output a corrupt air flow reading that can mess with fuel trim.

You could rig a propane sniffer with a length of hose & attached sports needle, like used to blow up basket or foot *****, as a probe around the intake manifold & PCV plumbing.
With the engine running, listen for a change in idle speed as it gets a whiff of propane at the leak point. Propane is plastic & O2 sensor safe.

Some lean code trouble shooting thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

Another thought cane to mind, did you disconnect the battery to wipe the old corrupt KAM stored fuel trim tables, that have been built when it was driven while acting out?

 

A silver lining is that the broken wire was up at the fuse box area (accessible) and not buried in a wire harness somewhere...

Keeping in mind how critical the feedback is from the 02 sensors and CMP, I can imagine that the engine must have been running like total crap during the periods(s) that the circuit was open. It could even be that the PCM elected to operate in "limp mode."

Follow pawpaw's suggestions on the lean codes.

 

Sorry I haven't replied, my wife was in from school for the weekend. I traced all the vacuum lines down even the ones under the passenger side inner fender as well as the ones inside the dash and can't seem to find a leak. Truck runs a hundred times better but idles high at random intervals. Mostly when it's cold, not a lil bit, I mean around 2000rpm. And it's still only showing po171 and po174. I do have a cracked air box on pre filter side. But I don't see that being the cause due to the fact the idle is random. Or am I wrong? I've tested the MAF and the values are right on it and the TPS values are right as well. I've previously also replaced the IAC. Could the IAT cause the idle issue. I've also wiped around the butterfly as well thinking that may be it but that didn't help any. Thanks so much for all the help gentlemen, it's truly appreciated!

 

With Both cylinder banks reading lean & the problem seeming to be intermittent, when last was the PCV valve replaced & it's rubber hoses & fittings inspected for loose fit, dry rot cracks/leaks?

 

I replaced the PCV valve n looked at the hose around a week ago. Everything seemed to be fine there. Would a smoke test be helpful here?

 

IMO a smoke test is a Good idea if we suspect a intake side vacuum leak but can't find a obvious culprit, so I like your trouble shooting thinking.
If you don't have a smoke machine, or access to one, you can improvise by using a Swisher Sweets cigar as a smoke source & slowly blow a concentration of smoke into a disconnected intake side vacuum line, like the brake booster, or PCV system connection point, to look, or sniff for leaks.
Be sure to puff & blow into the firewall vacuum source for the dash AC/Heater/Defroster control circuit too, as that vacuum control circuit is a known obscure vacuum leak source.
Enjoy the puffing & sniffing, let us know how it goes!!! EDIT: Don't inhale!!!! lol

If your scan tool will read PID's, have a look at the MAF sensor, O2 sensors & fuel injectors squirt time readings, to see if they're within range. Also perform a fuel pressure & flow rate over time test at the fuel rail Schrader valve test port. If fuel flow, or pressure is down, it'll cause the injectors to give a wimpy fuel shot & corrupt the air/fuel ratio lean & a long injector squirt time can tattle on this, so a scan tool that can read live PID feeds can help, if you don't have a fuel pressure gauge
Corrupt fuel pressure could be a clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel pump pick up sock kinked fuel line, or a wimpy pump.
More thoughts for pondering, let us know what you find.