Cranking Issues
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Cranking Issues
Hi all, I know there's a few threads on here similar to my problem, but I couldn't find the exact same issue I'm having.
I went to crank my truck one morning, and it tried to turn over for a few seconds before it just started rapidly clicking. I had been having issues with cold starts and thought it could be related to that. I was in a hurry to get to work, so I took my wife's car and later that night I plugged the block heater in and after an hour it cranked up fine.
The next morning I had the same issue, with the starter relay rapidly clicking when I tried to crank the truck. So I tested each of the batteries and got readings of around 12.5V.
I was planning on removing both batteries and bringing them to an auto shop tomorrow to test the CCA and to also check the ground connections. Any other recommendations on what I should check next if both of those test good?
I went to crank my truck one morning, and it tried to turn over for a few seconds before it just started rapidly clicking. I had been having issues with cold starts and thought it could be related to that. I was in a hurry to get to work, so I took my wife's car and later that night I plugged the block heater in and after an hour it cranked up fine.
The next morning I had the same issue, with the starter relay rapidly clicking when I tried to crank the truck. So I tested each of the batteries and got readings of around 12.5V.
I was planning on removing both batteries and bringing them to an auto shop tomorrow to test the CCA and to also check the ground connections. Any other recommendations on what I should check next if both of those test good?
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I also forgot to mention that all of my lights work fine when the key is not in the ignition, but once I turn it and activate the glow plugs, the lights become very dim and my radio won't even turn on.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Colorado Springs
When you checked your batteries were they disconnected from each other? How old are they? Have you checked the voltage with the truck running AFTER GPR shuts off? Getting them load tested is a good idea.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
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From: Douglassville, PA
12.5v is weak for a battery but mine are down there and I am still milking them along...until winter hits. I'd also recommend cleaning up your terminals and contacts and see if it helps.
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From: Oakdale, CA
Another vote for a battery issue here. I am sure the load test will prove if they are good or bad. The dimming of the lights is a good sign they are the problem.
It could also be charging related. A good battery tester will be able to find this too.
Your local auto parts store should be able to test them. And as stated, make sure they are tested individually and not while connected to each other.
It could also be charging related. A good battery tester will be able to find this too.
Your local auto parts store should be able to test them. And as stated, make sure they are tested individually and not while connected to each other.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Medford Oregon
When I went to Arizona to pick up my 99 it had the same issue. The battery's were only two years old and voltage measured fine. Damn thing just wouldn't turn over after a few days sitting. Everyone blamed the ignition switch to the alarm system. Short story, had the load test and one was at 80% and the other at 20%. Dealer was trying to sell me just one battery and I said NO, I spent the money on two good battery's and glad I did.
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I did disconnect the batteries when testing them. They're only about a year and a half old. I haven't checked the voltage on them while the truck is running, as I haven't gotten it started since I started testing. Thanks to you all for the replies though, I'm going to pull them both out and have them load tested tomorrow at an auto parts store. Hopefully that will provide more insight! I've already cleaned the terminals and contacts, so I don't think that is the issue.
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If the batteries are indeed the issue, I'll be sure to get better ones this go around. If the batteries are good, then I'll start checking the connections and cables for corrosion. There's none that I can see, but I suppose it could be under the insulation
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Just an update, it did end up being the batteries. One was around 100 CCA and the other was around 350 CCA and they're supposed to be 660 CCA. So I spent a little more money and got some better batteries with a 3 year warranty this go around. Thank you all for your responses and help!
