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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Automatic Shifting Problems After Neutral Switch Replacement

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Old Oct 14, 2017 | 04:27 PM
  #16  
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Failure mode for the modulator is usually the symptoms you are having, and if there is a rip in the diaphragm it will smoke like a freight train from tranny fluid being sucked up the vacuum line. Do you have vacuum on that line down there with the engine idling? Unplug it and put your finger over the line, it should suck on your finger with the engine running.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2017 | 04:29 PM
  #17  
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Here's the type with the rod like I had.

 
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Old Oct 14, 2017 | 04:31 PM
  #18  
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Did you disconnect the kickdown completely when you did your last road test? I think that is what I would do, take the white plastic piece completely off, and let the lever move to where it wants to go and then test drive it again. It should be at the end of it's travel, not in the middle somewhere.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2017 | 05:32 PM
  #19  
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Anyone check the ATF level?
Dave ----
 
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Old Oct 14, 2017 | 07:07 PM
  #20  
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Man, i checked the transmission fluid with a little prayer that would be it! Ha.

I had totally disconnected the kickdown when I test drove it last. But not at the white plastic fitting, at the metal lever that hoes over the bolt. Shouldnt matter though.

I purchased a vacuum modulator and see what that does to
tomorrow.

Thanks for all ya'll's help! We'll get it eventually!
 
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Old Oct 15, 2017 | 10:21 AM
  #21  
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So it didnt take long for me to get in over my head....

i removed the vacuum modulator and got dowsed with ATF... surprised me.

There's also a rod sticking out od the hole that the modulator was removed from, and I have no idea what to do with that. Cause it's coming out at an angle that doesnt allow the modulator to go in all the way. I ran the pin inside the modulator but couldnt fet the mod back in because of that angle.

Any pointers fellas? This was a bit discouraging.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2017 | 12:56 PM
  #22  
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Here's a picture someone made up. See if you can get the pin back in the right place.

 
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Old Oct 15, 2017 | 01:45 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by whoamonga
The problems remains that the transmission waits too long before shifting into 2nd and 3rd gear. The rpms are too high when it shifts, and if I'm accelerating, it shifts w a jerk.
I can only offer general observations, as my experience with automatics is limited to writing large checks to AAMCO.

How long have you owned the truck? Did the delayed shifting only begin after you replaced the NSS? Looking at the gory history in this thread, you said the NSS was replaced due to starting problems. I'm assuming (Danger! Danger!) this means the starter didn't do anything when you turned the key. A new NSS seems to have fixed that, but then you suddenly had new problems, both internal (shift points) and external (binding shift lever).

Now I'm not a rocket scientist, and don't even play one on TV, but I'd have to say you inadvertently introduced those new problems. Not meaning to pick on you, but changing other parts (like the vacuum modulator can of worms) or making other new adjustments isn't going to help at the moment.

If I can get moderator permission, I may have to break out the forum tranquilizer gun to keep you from digging a deeper hole. Sure, firing a tranquilizer gun at another forum member sounds kinda dangerous, but if I follow established safety protocol, I should be fine.

I do not care to discuss how I learned this, but when troubleshooting, only make one change at a time whenever possible. If the symptoms get worse, reverse the last step. Could be a defective part (rare but it happens), an adjustment wasn't correct, or something nearby was disturbed in the process. But however it happened, when things get worse, take a deep breath, mutter some choice curse words, and back up. Don't compound a small problem by introducing new ones. Figure out why things got worse and undo it before proceeding.

Sorry I can't offer any specifics of things to look at, but hope this general advice can still be of some help. On a related note, are you allergic to any common tranquilizers?

Down the road, after you get this current problem sorted out, there's one more thing you may want to do. Drop the pan, replace the filter, and scrape off all that red RTV used on the pan gasket. See those little red worms extruded on the outside? You've got just as many on the inside, too. When they break off, and they will, they will collect on the filter. In theory no damage should have been done, but I hate the stuff with a passion. RTV has its place for certain things, but it's the worst for an application where those little worms can plug fine passages. Please send me the name of the previous owner so I can hunt him down and slap him around for doing that.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2017 | 03:32 PM
  #24  
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Response of the year!!!!

i plan on reinstalling the new vacuum hose as soon as it cools down, refilling the tranny, checking for vacuum at the hose, then calling it good.

I also might etch your troubleshooting wisdom on some wood planks and hang it on the wall.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2017 | 04:23 PM
  #25  
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Update:
new vacuum modulator installed and ATF refilled, no change in the late-shifting. I backed off the small adjustment screw on the modulator for earlier shifts but it didnt make any discernable difference.

I'll try and live with it, but if it seems too dangerous for the engine I'll take it to the shop.

Thanka for all the help! Still game for any other suggestions, I'll just move more slowly and with better research next time.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2017 | 05:13 PM
  #26  
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Honestly though, i've learned a crap ton from these mistakes. Ha!
 
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Old Oct 15, 2017 | 08:39 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by whoamonga
I also might etch your troubleshooting wisdom on some wood planks and hang it on the wall.
You do realize it's considered poor form to compliment me, right? It only encourages me...

At work, some higher-ups have developed the annoying habit of creating a personal Latin motto, attached as their email signature. It's as bad as a mission statement, only to the Nth degree. In my work as a mechanic, I've created my own motto, which tells me nobody bothers translating any of them back into English:

"Ut parum ut possible est quod quamdiu capit"


In English:

"As little as possible, for as long as it takes"

All seriousness aside, it's a great motto when it comes to troubleshooting, which we do a lot.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 01:52 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by kr98664
At work, some higher-ups have developed the annoying habit of creating a personal Latin motto, attached as their email signature. It's as bad as a mission statement, only to the Nth degree.
Perhaps one of those pinhea... er... esteemed colleagues of yours could come up with a Latin translation of this for me:

"May I be as dead as Latin, before I ever have to learn it."
 
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Old Oct 16, 2017 | 07:34 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by kr98664
You do realize it's considered poor form to compliment me, right? It only encourages me...
There's a shortage of well-intended, good humored confrontation these days. Of course I'll encourage more of it when I see it!

In the meantime, I'm driving with the kickdown disconnected, I've backed out the Vacuum Modulator screw flush with the lip it rests in, and I've verified substantial vacuum at the modulator's hose. I don't have a pressure gauge, but the vacuum pulled my finger in and altered idle speed, so that sounds good.

Maybe after some research I'll look at the governor. It's just from all I've read over tons of forums, this symptom is modulator-based. Oh well. Maybe some new mistakes, er, learning opportunities, are to follow.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2017 | 03:48 PM
  #30  
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it sounds to me like your downshift linkage is hanging up and not letting the trans shift into next gear.
if i remember correctly, back is full throttle/downshift, forward is idle/shift.
disconnect the center rod/cable, and move the arm all the way back. go for a test drive and see if it shifts.
if it does not, move the arm all the way forward and test drive again.
with the downshift disconnected, it should stay in the position you manually set it too.
i have seen quite a few trucks and cars with this issue that had the downshift cable or linkage that was crusty to the point it was always in downshift position.
 
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