Automatic Shifting Problems After Neutral Switch Replacement
I had totally disconnected the kickdown when I test drove it last. But not at the white plastic fitting, at the metal lever that hoes over the bolt. Shouldnt matter though.
I purchased a vacuum modulator and see what that does to
tomorrow.
Thanks for all ya'll's help! We'll get it eventually!
i removed the vacuum modulator and got dowsed with ATF... surprised me.
There's also a rod sticking out od the hole that the modulator was removed from, and I have no idea what to do with that. Cause it's coming out at an angle that doesnt allow the modulator to go in all the way. I ran the pin inside the modulator but couldnt fet the mod back in because of that angle.
Any pointers fellas? This was a bit discouraging.
How long have you owned the truck? Did the delayed shifting only begin after you replaced the NSS? Looking at the gory history in this thread, you said the NSS was replaced due to starting problems. I'm assuming (Danger! Danger!) this means the starter didn't do anything when you turned the key. A new NSS seems to have fixed that, but then you suddenly had new problems, both internal (shift points) and external (binding shift lever).
Now I'm not a rocket scientist, and don't even play one on TV, but I'd have to say you inadvertently introduced those new problems. Not meaning to pick on you, but changing other parts (like the vacuum modulator can of worms) or making other new adjustments isn't going to help at the moment.
If I can get moderator permission, I may have to break out the forum tranquilizer gun to keep you from digging a deeper hole. Sure, firing a tranquilizer gun at another forum member sounds kinda dangerous, but if I follow established safety protocol, I should be fine.
I do not care to discuss how I learned this, but when troubleshooting, only make one change at a time whenever possible. If the symptoms get worse, reverse the last step. Could be a defective part (rare but it happens), an adjustment wasn't correct, or something nearby was disturbed in the process. But however it happened, when things get worse, take a deep breath, mutter some choice curse words, and back up. Don't compound a small problem by introducing new ones. Figure out why things got worse and undo it before proceeding.
Sorry I can't offer any specifics of things to look at, but hope this general advice can still be of some help. On a related note, are you allergic to any common tranquilizers?

Down the road, after you get this current problem sorted out, there's one more thing you may want to do. Drop the pan, replace the filter, and scrape off all that red RTV used on the pan gasket. See those little red worms extruded on the outside? You've got just as many on the inside, too. When they break off, and they will, they will collect on the filter. In theory no damage should have been done, but I hate the stuff with a passion. RTV has its place for certain things, but it's the worst for an application where those little worms can plug fine passages. Please send me the name of the previous owner so I can hunt him down and slap him around for doing that.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
i plan on reinstalling the new vacuum hose as soon as it cools down, refilling the tranny, checking for vacuum at the hose, then calling it good.
I also might etch your troubleshooting wisdom on some wood planks and hang it on the wall.
new vacuum modulator installed and ATF refilled, no change in the late-shifting. I backed off the small adjustment screw on the modulator for earlier shifts but it didnt make any discernable difference.
I'll try and live with it, but if it seems too dangerous for the engine I'll take it to the shop.
Thanka for all the help! Still game for any other suggestions, I'll just move more slowly and with better research next time.
At work, some higher-ups have developed the annoying habit of creating a personal Latin motto, attached as their email signature. It's as bad as a mission statement, only to the Nth degree. In my work as a mechanic, I've created my own motto, which tells me nobody bothers translating any of them back into English:
"Ut parum ut possible est quod quamdiu capit"
In English:
"As little as possible, for as long as it takes"
All seriousness aside, it's a great motto when it comes to troubleshooting, which we do a lot.
"May I be as dead as Latin, before I ever have to learn it."
In the meantime, I'm driving with the kickdown disconnected, I've backed out the Vacuum Modulator screw flush with the lip it rests in, and I've verified substantial vacuum at the modulator's hose. I don't have a pressure gauge, but the vacuum pulled my finger in and altered idle speed, so that sounds good.
Maybe after some research I'll look at the governor. It's just from all I've read over tons of forums, this symptom is modulator-based. Oh well. Maybe some new mistakes, er, learning opportunities, are to follow.
if i remember correctly, back is full throttle/downshift, forward is idle/shift.
disconnect the center rod/cable, and move the arm all the way back. go for a test drive and see if it shifts.
if it does not, move the arm all the way forward and test drive again.
with the downshift disconnected, it should stay in the position you manually set it too.
i have seen quite a few trucks and cars with this issue that had the downshift cable or linkage that was crusty to the point it was always in downshift position.












