first focus is to ensure my choke isn't staying partially closed...that would cause a rich condition...

 

Not sure if you're being snarky or what here... nobody said it was the tech's job.....they don't care where the idle is....it just passes or fails. Emissions guys are nothing more than monkeys in shirts....idiot didn't even know how to drive my truck, as evidenced by him revving the hell out of it in granny low on the load test.


You're not reading my other posts on my experience from last year, evidently. I'm aware the idle is too high, but other adjustments are needed to get it to idle smoothly at a lower RPM.

 

...snarky???...

Never heard that one before...

Tell you what, just forget I posted anything.

...snarky ...

 

[QUOTE=KULTULZ;17520162]

...snarky???...

Never heard that one before...

Tell you what, just forget I posted anything.

...snarky ... [/QUOTE




snark·y
ˈsnärkē/
adjectiveNorth Americaninformal

adjective: snarky; comparative adjective: snarkier; superlative adjective: snarkiest

1. (of a person, words, or a mood) sharply critical; cutting; snide.
   "the kid who makes snarky remarks in class"
   
   • cranky; irritable.
     "Bobby's always a bit snarky before his nap"
     
     
   
   
   

That last post made it sound like I'm blaming the emissions tech. If I misunderstood you I apologize. I'm just hear looking for some tips like everyone else. Nobody insinuated that it's the job of the emissions tech to check timing, etc. as you'd indicated.

 

Hey, he knew he'd be ruining peoples' day when he signed up for that job...

Can you post up some pics of your carb?

If you could post a pic of it before a cold start, and then one taken after it warms up, that might show us if anything is awry.

 

Pre OBD2, yes, a smog tech is supposed to verify timing and rpm at idle. He also is supposed to do an EGR functional test if he is performing a 2 speed idle test.

Many smog shops will refuse to test a pre obd2 vehicle because they need to work harder for their $40, $50, or $60 fee.

But to say that they aren't supposed to is misinformed.
This info was gotten from my smog book, and from asking my brother-in-law who owns a smog shop and is California Star Certified.



Let us know how the check of your thermostat turns out.

 

Varies by state I think. In AZ, you go to a state run inspection station, not a shop. They shuffle cars through at a pretty good pace after you sit in line.


They do check EGR and PCV, but they're not checking anything else aside from the sniffer.

 

Yes, will work on it tomorrow night or Sat morning. Once warm, that butterfly needs to be all the way open, correct?

 

Correct. And if it isn't, then you adjust it via turning the brown plastic choke bimetal-spring housing.
And 1.5 turns out from bottom should put those idle mixture screws in the ball park with good seats.

 

Mr Smog guy above was right. Truck IS running lean at idle. Really lean. That suggests a big vacuum leak. I am getting a bump in idle spraying carb cleaner around the throttle shafts (is that even serviceable?). Had the same exact issue on other 2 carbs I have....one was a reman'd that I bought.


So when you get a reman'd carb I guess you just get junk.


Not sure what to do about this. That's the only vac leak I can find, but at idle, using a portable o2 sensor, my AF mixture is about 20:1. Should be 14:1. Guessing the rich smell is indeed because I'm getting a lean misfire, which would explain the jumpy idle.


I give up. Gonna take it to a shop. Frustration levels exceeded.

 

Keep your britches on for a minute. Leaks around throttle shafts happen. The proper fix is to have the holes reamed out and bushings installed. Most places don't do that unless you specify. Most of their rebuild monkeys are just replacing gaskets, and that's the limit of their intellect.


Smear a big glob of 5th wheel grease around both ends of the shafts, and take it back to Mr. Smoggypants. The thicker and firmer the grease the better.


Oh! And chug a tall glass of bleach on your way.


CG.

 

High HCs is more likely running lean if the CO is within range. Unburned hydrocarbons due to improper flame propagation of a lean mixture. The burning eyes smell. Almost always mistaken for rich by those who have never ran a 4 gas analyzer. On a big V8, the leaks around the throttle shaft are not going to be enough to drive the HC much. Almost any older engine will have enough leakage there to respond to spraying. Not saying rebushing isn't needed, just that it's probably not the only culprit. You have an engine that management system that was old and kept alive on an iron lung to meet new, stricter federal standards. Re-engineering is often in order if the local smog laws permit. If they don't and you have to keep it stock with the myriad of vacuum tomfoolery, it can be a real pita. I would also check the egr to make sure it isn't carboned up and leaking.

 

And make sure your timing isn't too advanced. I'm pretty sure I remember reading that advanced timing causes higher HCs, back when I had to deal with emission testing.

 

when I was messing it, I installed a brand new EGR (because I had one). It had no effect.


Your summary is what I was thinking....there's a leak at the throttle shafts, but not sufficient to cause the type of vacuum leak I'm experiencing. As stated, I have 3 different carbs, and they all leak there. On one, it passed last year and that one has a terrible leak that made the truck fall on its face past half throttle. The other two I have run great on the road, but neither of them idle smoothly.


Regarding ignition timing.....I'm not sure how accurate my timing marks are because it's showing 16-17 degrees of advance I keep reading that advance on this motor should be in the single digits, but when I retard it, it runs like crap and I lose the bulk of my engine vacuum as measured by my vac guage. In short, it runs good at that much advance - just not sure how accurate the reading is. I wonder if the timing marks are off or if the distributor isn't clocked properly (?)

 

Terrible idea. Gives me the scoots.