Has anyone modded there oil pressure gauge? I have a 2014 3.5 l and would like a working oil pressure gauge.
On my 1994 T-bird with a 4.6l I replaced the pressure switch with an oil pressure sending unit and removed a resistor and installed a different value which allowed it to function like an old fashion gauge but I don't remember the resistor no. and don't know where the oil pressure sending unit is on the 3.5 l.
This mod will not give you the actual oil pressure reading but with the correct resistor in series you can make it so that approx 7 psi is at the low and 100 psi is High. I don't like idiot lights and a gauge that goes to the middle on anything over 7 psi does me no good.

 

I don't think there is such a mod for these trucks.

The gauge cluster has it's own computer which takes information from the sender and decides where the needle goes.

Wait until you discover how the transmission temp gauge works

 

Ok I'll bite how does the transmission temp gauge work?

 

I put an Auto-Meter electric gauge on my '14. Used a tee and kept the stock "gauge" working. I used the vent pod to mount the gauge to the left of the steering wheel. Works good and looks good.

 

That is what I will probably end up doing. I was looking at the spot where the change holder is (4x4 switch if 4x4) but It is obscured by the column shift and I think it is too small so either in the vent pod or autometers new pillar pod.
I still want to know how the transmission temp gauge works???? lol

 

If the temp is between 50-220, the needle is straight up.
If it exceeds 220 then it goes to yellow
If it exceeds 240(?) Then it goes to red.

The gauge cluster sees the actual temp of the transmission from the sender in the trans, then interprets that temp and decides where the needle should go.

The gauge is still useful, just a little misleading as to what is actually going on with the temps.

 

I did the same thing but with the 5.0 it seemed easier to use a sandwich at the filter.

 

you know the problem with the step gauges is in places like climbing mountains or coming out of death valley on I15. You can't monitor the gauge slowly rising to take care of the problem before it happens by slowing down turning off the Ac then turning on the heater. instead you get a sudden loss of boost as the ECU shuts you down. That happened on my escape towing with it. The temp gauge suddenly sprang from dead center to 3/4 and I lost boost at the same time.I went from a powerful V^ to a low powered 4 cylinder in a second while climbing a fly over in AUstin towing my 19 ft tt. better than an idiot light but not a whole lot. At least I can bring up the trans temp on the display.

 

My 13 operates a little differently. Will move up towards center until it hits 150. Starts moving off center at 230F. I hit 240F once and it was around 3/4 at which point I pulled over. Didn't wait to see where it would hit red. I was getting these numbers from my scanguage which basically matches what the center screen gives you.

The normal position of the needle is just left of center.

 

That actually jives pretty well.

The gauge is programmed for a slow sweep, rather than a sharp jump. So I'd your needle is higher than the normal position, you've exceeded 220 and the needle is on the way to yellow.

It probably takes until the trans is 150 until the gauge reads vertical. If you sat there in park with the trans at 60 long enough the gauge is going to read vertical.

According to mark K, you can operate at 250 for 30 min without any real concern for long term damage, so at 240 you were on the way to yellow or red (Notice the '?' behind my previous post. Red could be 250, off the top of my head I can't remember which), but if it took a few minutes to get there, that's ok.

So your gauge could hang out on the right side of the normal range if you hit, say 230, then drop back to 210, then 230 and back because it is a slow sweep. Or if you haven't been above 220 for very long, but that's OK. Maybe take note and realize that it is getting pretty warm and see if you can change something to reduce the severity of the drive, but also know that it is actually OK

Mark does advise against shutting the engine off if the trans is above 220. Let it idle until it is below 220 at least. Shutting it off can heat soak the trans in very bad ways and things can warp internally. So if it does get that hot, let it idle until the gauge is at least in the normal bracket, then you know it is less than 220 and the gauge is returning to the vertical position. But you needn't wait until the gauge is all the way back to vertical.

 

FYI, you can put a Gauge in place of the stupid Coin Holder... I did g
One of my 1st Mod's (click Link below):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16437150

 

That looks sharp. I may go ahead and install my oil pressure gauge there.. Now I just have to decide between electrical and mechanical. I prefer mechanical, but they make a big mess if they leak. Electrical I have had issues with inaccuracy but I have the fix for that you need to put a voltage regulator on the 12v supply like the factory use too, but they made it 5v.

 

Oh yes, I never shut off a hot engine or tranny. Was taught that at an early age.

The Ecoboost will cool itself off pretty quickly sitting. About 10 minutes and everything is back in the normal ranges.

What's nice towing the trailer is when I arrive at my destination I usually end up starting around scratching my head for a while to figure out how I'm gonna park it so that provide plenty of time for things to cool off.

 

Blondie70 do you happen to have the truck still? If so, could you post a pic of the gauge? Thanks.

 

No Alyaz. I have sold it. The guage fit into the dash just rite. I bet youi could find one like it pretty easy. It was a nice setup.....good luck