04 F150 SuperCrew 5.4 XLT 4X4
The problems start... Transmission Error Displayed. CEL, MIL Mode" all come on going through the drive thru. I drive the truck home less than 1 mile. I unhook the battery, to reset computer. Next day. I jump in and hit the highway, travel about 3 miles and the truck goes in limp mode again.
I go pull the codes with a scanner I get p0743, and shift solenoid B, and one other code. Not sure what codes they were. (Guy wasn't very helpful.)
I purchase the *tcc solenoid and the *shift solenoid, fluid and filter. I change the fluid and filter, with sileniods.
Reset the computer, and immediately MIL CEL trans error.
I Go scan again, and get codes p0743, p0755 p0962
I have checked all electrical connections, wires, fuses and the hard harness in the transmission. Checked wires around the exhaust, and o2 sensors as well.

NOTICE ... When I changed my transfuild and filter, I put 5 qts of new fluid in. It is reading high, completely over the top of the dipstick. I took 5qts out or close to it. So what could be causing it to read high level? Obviously it could have to much fluid, but could there be another reason for it.... Because it read high right before I changed it out. As soon as I had the issue the first thing I did was check for burnt or low fluid level. Which was good color and smell, just over filled.

What should be my next step?
A, should I go to the dealership and pay for diagnosis? The closest dealer is 30+ miles away from me. What should it cost and is it likely than can see what is causing the codes.
B. Transmission service shop / or garage.? Local specialist shop. Should they have proper equipment.
C. Change the transmission pressure control solenoid? Take my chances changing the pressure control solenoid myself.

I also have a concern about the pump in the transmission, I don't know if there is a way to check it or not.
Also Could it be posiible, torque converter problems ?

Another thing I have noticed more now in limp mode , is the truck seems to come "On Cam" about 2500rpm. It was there before but much more noticeable now, when the truck is stuck in second gear. When accelerating the truck nothing, nothing, then it gains a lot of power at about 2500rpm. Like it comes on to the cams.. the only way I know how to put it.
No transmission slipping, truck would run out and shift great before, no noticeable issues. No tuner, truck is all stock. 2004 F150 5.4 XLT super crew 4x4, w/ 140k miles.
Transmission fuild was clean prior to changing.
Truck has new plugs and (cop) coils. No noticeable phaser knock, cam issues present.
Truck idles and runs pretty good. Has decent power.

Thank you everyone for your time!

 

You provided a nice detailed problem description. I'm no transmission expert but may be able to offer something helpful for someone willing to dive in as you seem to be. First, I have two sections from the Ford Factory Service Manual covering transmissions in PDF format. I have placed them on my personal web server from which you can download. They are pretty large (and my server is slow) so the will take some time to download but you can save them to your computer. Hope this helps.
http://www.devoll.com/public/AUTO%20TRANSMISSION.pdf
http://www.devoll.com/public/AUTOMAT...ISSION%202.pdf

(NOTE: You may have to set explorer security options to allow opening PDF files online - but promise they are safe).

Also, It sounds from your post you are having someone else scan for codes? FORD provides a wealth of data via the OBDII system on the transmission's operation. I've done lots of research in this area and found, identified, and worked out formulas for about thirty transmission parameters that are very useful if you have a scanner that will allow you to specify custom parameter IDs. (Torque Pro is the only one I am familiar with that does). Let me know if that is a possibility and I will provide them.

 

IMHO...look for Mark Kovalski on this forum...he is a retired Ford tranny engineer and very well respected SME!!!!!

 

All the codes indicate electrical circuit failure to those functions.
It could be the ribbon cable inside the trans or the connector outside.
They are all the same type failure so don't change parts first to solve a common problem.
Fluid level is checked when the trans is up to full operating temperature, not before.
Good luck.

 

When you say you checked the wires, what does that mean? Some people glance at the wiring and say they checked it. I say if you didn't measure resistance in the wire, resistance to ground and resistance to power all you did is sight see.

Having electrical circuit codes like you do does NOT mean you should change the solenoids. It means you should diagnose what's wrong. Most electrical fault codes are not fixed by replacing the solenoids.

When you are reading the trans fluid level is the truck on a level surface, fully warmed up, and the engine idling in park? If not, your reading is meaningless. Having a transmission overfilled by five quarts will cause a lot of problems, but probably not the problems you're having.

If you decide to take it somewhere you don't have to go to the dealer. I've run into many independent shops that can run circles around the dealer in their ability to acually diagnose the problem.

 

I agree with @Mark Kovalsky about checking wires and the 'sight see' concept. Helps to have a road map though, even if only to do a 'drive by' appraisal.


Page 6 of 6 of the attached wiring diagram might be of assistance for ringing out wiring from the PCM to Solenoid "A" and "B" and "T/C". I would also suggest unplugging and spraying a good contact cleaner on wiring harness plugs/connections including the ones on the PCM (with battery disconnected of course).

 

Thank you guys. Sometimes you just need to hear it from someone else.. lol. I did check the fluid with it warm in park. I think it's my driveway. It is sloped a little down, and to the right. It doesn't seem like much at all but after really checking it, it is more than I thought which I do believe is probably the over fill problem.
So first I checked visually all wires surrounding the transmission and 02 sensors. I read alot of issues arise because of 02 sensors and the wire harness melting to the exhaust, manifolds and getting pinched between the block and firewall.
I also checked the hard wire (harness) continuity tested.
just to check for disconnected prongs or broken wires.
I am decent at troubleshooting electrical, but i couldn't find anything to help guide me in the right direction in what or how to check the input connection into the transmission. The absolute last thing I want to do is hurt something pcm/tcm...

 

So i found a transmission shop that is willing to do a diagnosis / troubleshoot the transmission, and put it on the computer, for 50 dollars. I just wonder if they would have any luck finding the problem?
Thanks again for all the help.

 

So if i have this correct.
Fuse 33, to violet / white 1-5-4 then splits to shift solenoid A + B / TC / EPCS
If fuse 33 is good, then there is a high possibility and chance it is somewhere between the fuse and the solenoids along that wire,
So i can read the resistance, between fuse 33 and the pin on the plug for one of the solenoids
if it is not that wire. which i truly believe it is. I can work my way down the list.

 

That's the power side. Each solenoid also has a wire that runs to the PCM for the ground side.

 

You got the relevant end points and wire color right. Electrical Service Manual indicates the Violet/Wht breaks out of the harness (S140) near "Back-up lamp switch to rear lamp feed harness, near breakout to H02S12". It traverses the next 5 schematic pages from left to right (1-5) ~ (5-1) ~ (1-2) ~ (2-5) ~ (5- Pin 4) where it appears to be common to Sol "A", "B", "T/C", & "EPCS" as you said.


Looks like the PCM (Pins 36, 37, 38, 39) supplies ground path for all four solenoids. I would probably be for testing for 12v on the Violet/White wire at/near the transmission with KOEO (or maybe KOER in park). Should be hot.


Then testing pins 36 ->thru 39 at the PCM, KOEO. Should be HOT unless one is calling for energize. (Ie: The Transmission Manual 2 {pg 2} Solenoid States charts indicates Solenoid "A" is going to be energized in PARK-REVERSE-NEUTRAL-& 1st GEAR.) Placing the selector in 2nd gear should de-energize it - BUT NOT Energize anything. Looks like it would be hard to get the others do actuate without driving.

 

pin/4 violet/white wire at trans harness has +12volts
pin 36 37,38, 39 on the left drivers side plug or center plug. check pins at pcm for voltage correct

 

pin/4 violet/white wire at trans harness has +12volts <br />pin 36 37,38, 39 on the left drivers side plug or center plug. check pins at pcm for voltage correct

 

Also looking through the manual, PIN TEST D. But it requires a diagnostics scanner for troubleshooting

 

Left side ? Center Plug? The damn documentation seems to tell me everything BUT that. I'm attaching 3 PDF files that should help you troubleshoot without complete guesswork.


I provided the 'Diagnostic Reference Chart' file to another Forum member who reported the PCM PLUGS were '_Backwards_' (as though the drawing was from passengers seat instead of looking it from front end). Be aware of this and compare/verify some wire colors or routes to sort it out.


From the schematic, looks (to me) like the coils in the tranny are sourced with +12v and the PCM pulls the solenoid coils to ground to energize them. Thus - KOEO you would read 12 volts at the PCM - if the wire is not 'open' between tranny and PCM. EXCEPT in the CASE where a solenoid is energized, then the PCM would 'internally' have the wire pulled to ground. As I mentioned previously, I _THINK_ basically, if you have the shifter in PARK, Reverse, neutral, or drive - Solenoid "A" is going to be energized. So, I _think_ pin #38 (Sol A) at the PCM Trans plug will be Grounded. (Trans Plug, according to the Diagnostic Reference Chart, should be the one nearest the passenger fender - if the other forum member reported that correctly.


You might find it more judicial to check 'continuity' on the wires instead of voltage, as I have no idea how to get the PCM to activate Solenoid "B" or the Torque Converter Clutch, etc without driving it.


Let us know how it goes.