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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

DISK BRAKE CONVERSION

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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 09:38 AM
  #16  
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Thank you I already got then bc no one said they used then. I have no transportation so all of these Pick-A-Part posts are of no value to me. If I were going that way it would be the Crown-Vic hands down.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 11:18 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Rust Smith
Steve,

what brands do you use, I think my flaring tool is good because it has that thing that aloes you to keep turning and not feed any more. It basically evens out the hump. My bending tool is junk and the spring things are all rusted and I never cared much for them. What is the Milwaukee of benders?
My benders are dedicated --only bend one diameter of tubing per bender, since I do not like all-in-one benders.

My 3/16" bender is the black one in the following photo. It's made by Rigid. The three silver benders are 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8". They are made by Imperial. The manual hand flaring bar is an Imperial-Gould, which I've had since 1984.



In 2009, I bought a Mastercool hydraulic flaring set.







 
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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 02:16 PM
  #18  
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Steve,
that is absolutely beautiful. So, what is your thinking when you start one? Okay I know you have to have long straight peace where they connect so the threads don’t get cross threaded and have room to slide the fittings well away. I know you want to have room for your tube fitting wrench. You probably put the protective coil on after one end is flared but I know it isn’t that simple, I am sure. What else do you consider. Do you start at the bottom?
Hay thank you for taking the time to show me what you have and it has been a real treat seeing your work. My father was good, but not quite that good.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2017 | 06:28 PM
  #19  
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As far as double flaring and tube bending goes, I'm self-taught --never had any instruction on how to do this and there wasn't any such thing as 'the internet' when I figured out how to do it.

I've always used straight lengths of 3/16" brake tubing from the parts stores although, I'm limited to 60" lengths, since that's the longest length they carry. Most of the time, that's more than long enough to do what I need to do. Sometimes though, it isn't and in those cases inverted flare unions have to be used to continue the length of the run. --however, I am working on building a tubing straightener that will straighten coiled brake/fuel/transmission tubing. If this works out, I'll be able to make continuous runs of longer than 60".

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...l#post17536291

You are correct that one end of the tube is double flared when I fit the spiral wrap/armor guard over the line. Once I know the fabricated line will reach from connection point to connection point, I cut the spiral wrap to length, slide it over the tube and then install the fitting and then double flare the end of the tube. At that point, the line is ready to connect up.

If I'm converting the front end to disc brakes and adding a brake booster/MC, I generally start the new brake line plumbing from the MC and run it down to the brake valve and from the brake valve out to the calipers and to the rear brake circuit.

You can use a piece of solid copper Romex electrical wire as a bend template to form your lines by. Bend the wire to the shape you want the tubing to run and then follow along the bend template when bending the tubing.

Romex bend template on the right. Tubing bent to the same pattern on the left.





That piece was for this run between the disc/drum brake valve out to the left front caliper hose.



It's not all that difficult to make brake lines. A little practice with the tubing and you'll soon get a feel for what to do or what not to do.



....of course, now, there is an Internet and there's lots of information on bending/flaring.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-boosters.html
 
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Old Oct 26, 2017 | 10:26 AM
  #20  
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Question. Are those lines coming from your master cyclinder 3/16 or 1/4?and does it matter because its pressure not volume?can i use 3/16 all the way through the system?its a 66 f100 with 75 front brakes
 

Last edited by Coffeeman; Oct 26, 2017 at 10:27 AM. Reason: Thanks
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Old Oct 26, 2017 | 12:43 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Coffeeman
Question. Are those lines coming from your master cyclinder 3/16 or 1/4?and does it matter because its pressure not volume?can i use 3/16 all the way through the system?its a 66 f100 with 75 front brakes
All the hardline plumbing from the factory was done in 3/16" diameter tubing. The new tubing I ran was in 3/16" as well.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2017 | 08:59 AM
  #22  
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Steve,
my father taught me when I was twelve, I am 59 now. What he taught me on was copper tubing, much deferent in the same way. I will have to look at my stuff and see what I have. Oh thank you for taking the time to show me everything. That conduit is the sh***, and that is what I forgot at Home Depo last night, I told the cashier I was forgetting something. Hay thanks a gene, great presentation.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2017 | 06:19 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Rust Smith
Steve,
my father taught me when I was twelve, I am 59 now. What he taught me on was copper tubing, much deferent in the same way. I will have to look at my stuff and see what I have. Oh thank you for taking the time to show me everything. That conduit is the sh***, and that is what I forgot at Home Depo last night, I told the cashier I was forgetting something. Hay thanks a gene, great presentation.
You're not much further ahead of me in age. I'm 51. If your reference to "conduit" was in reference to brake line tubing, Home Depot doesn't sell brake line tubing. You'll have to get that from the parts stores in either straight sticks of approximately 60" max or, in coils of 25' lengths.

Brake tubing is pressure rated. Rigid conduit and EMT (thin wall Electric Metallic Tubing) is not pressure rated plus, conduit doesn't come in 3/16" diameters --would be too small of a diameter to be of any use for electrical applications.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2017 | 06:07 AM
  #24  
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No No, Not at all, I used the wrong word. I like your Idea, to make a pattern out of romex solid copper wire. That will make things so much easier.
Hay thanks again.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2017 | 10:30 AM
  #25  
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Tube straightener

I've always used straight lengths of 3/16" brake tubing from the parts stores although, I'm limited to 60" lengths, since that's the longest length they carry. Most of the time, that's more than long enough to do what I need to do. Sometimes though, it isn't and in those cases inverted flare unions have to be used to continue the length of the run. --however, I am working on building a tubing straightener that will straighten coiled brake/fuel/transmission tubing. If this works out, I'll be able to make continuous runs of longer than 60".
Very nice brake line work there Ultra Ranger.
This is a home made straightener I made with some old aircraft control cable pulleys. If you get the pulleys adjusted right and pull the tube thru it will come out 99% straight. The top 2 pulleys are in slotted holes.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2017 | 11:06 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Crop Duster
I've always used straight lengths of 3/16" brake tubing from the parts stores although, I'm limited to 60" lengths, since that's the longest length they carry. Most of the time, that's more than long enough to do what I need to do. Sometimes though, it isn't and in those cases inverted flare unions have to be used to continue the length of the run. --however, I am working on building a tubing straightener that will straighten coiled brake/fuel/transmission tubing. If this works out, I'll be able to make continuous runs of longer than 60".
Very nice brake line work there Ultra Ranger.
This is a home made straightener I made with some old aircraft control cable pulleys. If you get the pulleys adjusted right and pull the tube thru it will come out 99% straight. The top 2 pulleys are in slotted holes.
Pretty slick tubing straightener there. I'm still waiting on my U-groove guide rollers to arrive so I can move forward with building my adjustable tube straightener.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 08:33 PM
  #27  
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looks like I'm going to the local airport !
mike
 
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Old Jan 7, 2018 | 07:35 PM
  #28  
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I can't do a pick and pull and I am just looking for a reliable front disk brake kit. I was just gifted a 66 f100. Any great recommendations?
 
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Old Jan 8, 2018 | 07:57 AM
  #29  
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well adam I used a crown vic front end on my 64 so it already had the front disk on it
and I used a master cyl kit off of ebay the seller said it would fit but the one I got I had to modify it a little to fit have brakes now but the truck will not move itself yet but it will
mike
 
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Old Jan 8, 2018 | 09:05 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Crop Duster
I've always used straight lengths of 3/16" brake tubing from the parts stores although, I'm limited to 60" lengths, since that's the longest length they carry. Most of the time, that's more than long enough to do what I need to do. Sometimes though, it isn't and in those cases inverted flare unions have to be used to continue the length of the run. --however, I am working on building a tubing straightener that will straighten coiled brake/fuel/transmission tubing. If this works out, I'll be able to make continuous runs of longer than 60".
Very nice brake line work there Ultra Ranger.
This is a home made straightener I made with some old aircraft control cable pulleys. If you get the pulleys adjusted right and pull the tube thru it will come out 99% straight. The top 2 pulleys are in slotted holes.
The rollers finally came in a while back and I finished building my coiled tubing straightener. This will handle up to 3/8" diameter tubing.



Coiled 3/16" diameter tubing straightened out with the tubing straightener.


Build of the tubing straightener.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17574503
 
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