Anybody have the sizes? I'm leaking like a son of a gun...or could it be that I didn't baffle the valley pan?? Of course I read about baffling the valley pan after everything is buttoned up only to find a leak.....

 

Also I am getting very low boost. I'd have to be going 40 and then get on it to get some boost .. 3psi max. Now I haven't timed the ip and fixed the oil leak but I am assuming those two things alone could factor into that. Also I am using banks downpipe not the factory

 

Are talking the drain line where it goes in to the intake? If it is like my banks a mid 70 dodge pvc groument and the oil resistant rtv.
Timing could help. Remeber boost is created as needed. You need to drag some weight up a hill to see how effective. I know in your part of Tx a hill maybe a problem. I rented a car trailer from uhaul and loaded our Jeep Liberty for testing. I think I hit 8 lbs. This are not high output turbos that tyye PS have.

When I brought my tractor home from Al with the truck over heating and brakes on the trailer acting up I think it was 9. But my mpg was 12.

Here a weight ticket for a piece of pipe I was moving still got 12mpg




Disregard axle weights look at total

 

it is the pedestal/line that goes to the back of the valley pan. It isn't where it meets the valley pan though it is where the turbo meets it with the 2 bolts that hold it on.

also I'm not getting a lot of whistle but I think I need to solve the oil and timing problem first and possibly turn the fuel up.

one last thing.. while I have it all apart again should i baffle the valley pan?

 

Would not hurt you can do it with a scredriver thru the the hole

 

in the hole where the grommet goes correct?

 

Yes just punc a couple holes

 

do you recommend that I put the pedestal on the turbo off of the truck and then install the pedestal and turbo on the truck as one unit? Last time I put the pedestal on first but think that is why my oring got misaligned...

 

Yes that how I did mine i may have disconnected the oil return from the turo , cant remember

 

Either one is a SOB lol I'm hoping I can have it done today leak free...

 

So it seems there is 2 layers of sheet metal. I punched four holes through what seems to be the first layer..do I go through the second?? Or am I ok

 

Uh... You punched holes through the valley pan baffle /through the cdr hole/, right? Not next to the hole...

Boost wise, make sure you don't have any pressure leaks on either the drive or boost side.
Found that the PO had forgotten to install the CDR blockoff plate at the back of the motor(banks system), so there was a 1" hole to the outside world from the intake manifold.
Boost went from 7psi at peak to over 15.

 

yes through the grommet. I am going to time the truck and install my egt probe. Mind you I'm not driving this due to the fact that it was leaking oil and I need to route my cdr valve somewhere in the intake. My air intake sucks right now. So a combination of bad fuel, bad air and it not being timed I'm considering that has a MAJOR impact on my boost readings right now. I hope to have this all done by Monday. Minus the air intake... I want the cowl induction but can't really justify the price to be honest. Not very much room under the hood and I don't have the factory box.. any ideas?

 

Just route the CDR to just before the turbo, and add an air filter to it. Usually just a 4" cone/cylinder filter is the easiest.

Ignore any "cold air" intake for now; it'll run just fine without it. The turbo will give you plenty of air, even if it's a little hotter than it could be.

I haven't bothered with any sort of intake on my '88 or '92; my '93 came with the factory turbo setup which I left alone. Haven't seen any real difference, to be honest.

 

I need to find a 4" hose adapter or something to route my hose from the CD-R to the intake. That's gonna be my toughest thing. I'll probably have someone weld me some aluminum piping for it