Hey Guys,
Recently bought a 2005 F250 4x4 super duty with a 5.4, auto and dump body. When I bought it I saw that it had that leaves that cracked and broke on each side of the rear spring packs. Wanting to get this thing road worthy I bought two Procomp 22415 rear leaf springs. I believe these are supposed to give you a 4 inch lift or so, but I mainly needed cheap springs in good shape.
My current issue is I believe the springs may be on the truck backwards. I tried them mounted with the shorter side from the middle spring bolt toward the front but it seemed the drive shaft was getting pinched and there was little to no slack to get the springs into the right position to put the ubolts on the axle. It also seemed like the axle pumpkin was sitting too low to the ground, though this may have been because I hadn't discovered the best way to raise it up with the jack at this point.
After swapping the springs around so the longer side from the center spring bolt is facing the front of the truck I was able to get the ubolts in and the axle mounted and wheels on. However the problem with this is that the drive shaft slipped out of the downward joint near the transmission when pulled the axle back in position to get the ubolts on the springs. After the tires were back in I went to try to connect the driveshaft at that joint (slip yolk?) and discovered instead of it being pinched it was about 4-6 inches too short of making the connection. After measuring the difference between flipping the springs the other way it seems that measurement would make up the difference.. so this all leads me to believe I had the springs in right the first time and I should have disconnected the drive shaft at that joint then installed the axle then used a jack underneath the installed axle to push up on the springs and get the drive shaft back connected.

I also noticed that the factory bump stops are much more aligned when the springs are positioned the way I had them the first time. Now the are about the distance that the drive shaft is short from reaching the spring center bolt.

current spring setup:
ubolts
top clamp
old overload spring
old one inch block (?)
procomp spring pack
factory bump stop block
axle

what do you guys think? Sorry for all the rambling it's been driving me a bit crazy lol

springs mounted short side first the way I had them originally

 

yes the short end of the spring is the front end. You may also have drive line angle problems with the new springs if they are a 4" lift and the rear of your truck will sit extremely high compared to the front You will also need different rear shocks and possibly a new rubber brake line from the frame to the axle. The truck will quite possibly drive strangely as well.

 

shoot I was afraid of that, it should be an easy job to swap them but I made the mistake of parking on the grass.. lol
What do you think the cheapest easiest way out of this is? I mainly got the procomps because they were ~$138 and thought I had read most everything would be okay just throwing them on. Sounds like I should really try to find a cheap pair of stock springs at a junk yard, is there any sort of specific spring out of a truck that would be an upgrade and go in there alright? Just would hate to break leafs after all this like the ones I took off had. It doesn't sound like there is an easy way to solve the driveline angle problem unless there is a set of shocks just for this problem? I believe the brake line was okay but mostly that drive shaft angle problem you were describing, hoping there is a good way out of this mess

 

are you using leaf spring hangers on the rear mount....that would give you horizontal adjustment control...the hangers come with multiple holes....using a lower hole moves that axle forward.....using a higher hole moves the axle to the rear.

 

Shocks have no effect on drive line angle. Talk to a local spring shop, you may be surprised at the actual cost of a set of springs, they can make them to work better than OEM in your application at a cost that is much better. Using springs that are for a 4" lift on a non lifted truck is just opening a can of worms and will most likely cost more in the long run.

 

A 4 inch spring will change pinion angle for sure. It may also effect length of driveshaft.
Only way to fix pinion angle is use a wedge between axle If they do that other wise you need to cut spring perches off axle rotate axle to correct position and weld them back in place. Not sure how 4x4 shops do this because my truck isnt lifted. I do know if pi9nion angle isnt correct you will have driveline issues.

 

thank you guys I ended up going to the local spring shop yesterday and getting a set of 43-1261HD (3600lbs, dayton usa made) springs total cost was $480 I think. Was out till midnight getting the procomps off putting the new ones on and new shocks and brakes and all took about 11 hours straight on unlevel grass but finally done and the truck moves! lol Thank you all very much, learned a lot about springs and lifts and drive lines etc.. learned my lesson about lift springs on a non lifted truck that's for sure!

 

You could have used the pro comps like you had originally. I see you removed the factory kift block so all you needed was a ten dollar degree shim to get the driveshaft back in proper angle