Winterproofing (ish) the 2100?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2017
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Winterproofing (ish) the 2100?
So.... I am still hammering away at my "new" highboy. The factory carb is in place with the factory intake. I'd like to stay with the factory style setup. All the emissions equipment has been removed (save for the crankcase vent system). The carb was originally warm air choke, but that has been removed and converted to a manual choke which doesn't work very well. The coolant passage through the carb plate has been bypassed. The warm air intake has been removed, although the factory air cleaner is there.
Here are my questions. So I am shooting to have this thing running well when winter hits. I'd like to drive it a good bit in the winter, but I want it to run right and start when I need it to. So.... I am planning on going to a rebuilt carb with a full electric choke (just seems the easiest to deal with?) and I am thinking that the carb plate water passage was there for a reason. So should I reroute the coolant hoses so they operate as intended? Also, is it worth it get the carb preheater hose hooked back up and operating? I have the factory manifolds, not headers, and the factory air cleaner. Just would need the shroud and the tube and vacuum line.
Anything I am missing?
Any thoughts/input/experience is appreciated.
Here are my questions. So I am shooting to have this thing running well when winter hits. I'd like to drive it a good bit in the winter, but I want it to run right and start when I need it to. So.... I am planning on going to a rebuilt carb with a full electric choke (just seems the easiest to deal with?) and I am thinking that the carb plate water passage was there for a reason. So should I reroute the coolant hoses so they operate as intended? Also, is it worth it get the carb preheater hose hooked back up and operating? I have the factory manifolds, not headers, and the factory air cleaner. Just would need the shroud and the tube and vacuum line.
Anything I am missing?
Any thoughts/input/experience is appreciated.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2017
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Winter here can be considerably colder than that.. ha! But I agree... I don't know why people undo all that stuff in the first place. It's not like the factory 360 2V is a hot rod machine in any way shape or form. Especially when hooked to a c6 in a 3/4 ton fulltime 4wd truck!
I have heard that the 2100 is a cold natured carb at heart and that ford struggled to keep them warm way back then.
I have heard that the 2100 is a cold natured carb at heart and that ford struggled to keep them warm way back then.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2017
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Also, if anyone has had particularly good/bad luck with a reman carb... I would appreciate knowing that. I know.... rebuild.... blah blah. And I most likely will rebuild the old one for fun, but the way the truck sits in the driveway, it's a terrible idea to have it not running for a long period of time if I get sidetracked on the rebuild.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
I rebuilt my 2100 for $24 plus a $5 can of carb cleaner....
Lights off immediately, choke steps down nicely, and runs AWESOME.
.
Lights off immediately, choke steps down nicely, and runs AWESOME.
.
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Pasadena, Ca
Long period of time?
I would say your first time rebuilding would take 90 minutes to tear it down, a night to soak, and maybe 2-2 1/2 to reassemble. But if buying one makes sense, go for it
I would say your first time rebuilding would take 90 minutes to tear it down, a night to soak, and maybe 2-2 1/2 to reassemble. But if buying one makes sense, go for it
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Postmaster
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In general, these are good cold starters as original with good tuneup.
Ignition first... plugs, wires, cap, rotor and timing in good shape.
And the carb... I had good luck with an "Autoline" 2v reman from Autozone. All factory setup including choke, coolant hoses and manifold heat stove. I had good starts after sitting outside at -5 degrees F... and that running heavier oil than I should at that temp (15w40).
And the oil... how cold? For really cold, 10w30 or 5w___ would be better. Just need to pick something that has enough zinc for the flat tappet cam or use one of the zinc additives.
Your "emissions stuff" disconnected may be a problem. I think it is a good idea to re-connect the coolant hoses as original if nothing else to keep the carb from freezing.
For the choke, a cable operated manual choke kit may be a good option if the OE system is missing or messed up. Electric choke can work but not ideal. Full manual choke to get her started, half choke for a few minutes to get her warmed up and choke off after that.
Also worth mentioning, battery, cables and charging system need to be in good shape. "OE equivalent" is fine.
Ignition first... plugs, wires, cap, rotor and timing in good shape.
And the carb... I had good luck with an "Autoline" 2v reman from Autozone. All factory setup including choke, coolant hoses and manifold heat stove. I had good starts after sitting outside at -5 degrees F... and that running heavier oil than I should at that temp (15w40).
And the oil... how cold? For really cold, 10w30 or 5w___ would be better. Just need to pick something that has enough zinc for the flat tappet cam or use one of the zinc additives.
Your "emissions stuff" disconnected may be a problem. I think it is a good idea to re-connect the coolant hoses as original if nothing else to keep the carb from freezing.
For the choke, a cable operated manual choke kit may be a good option if the OE system is missing or messed up. Electric choke can work but not ideal. Full manual choke to get her started, half choke for a few minutes to get her warmed up and choke off after that.
Also worth mentioning, battery, cables and charging system need to be in good shape. "OE equivalent" is fine.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2017
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Thanks... between the rebuild (and the fact that I am busy as can be) and fixing the mess the PO made of the choke... it's much simpler to just start fresh at this point. Especially if converting to full electric choke.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2017
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In general, these are good cold starters as original with good tuneup.
Ignition first... plugs, wires, cap, rotor and timing in good shape.
And the carb... I had good luck with an "Autoline" 2v reman from Autozone. All factory setup including choke, coolant hoses and manifold heat stove. I had good starts after sitting outside at -5 degrees F... and that running heavier oil than I should at that temp (15w40).
And the oil... how cold? For really cold, 10w30 or 5w___ would be better. Just need to pick something that has enough zinc for the flat tappet cam or use one of the zinc additives.
Your "emissions stuff" disconnected may be a problem. I think it is a good idea to re-connect the coolant hoses as original if nothing else to keep the carb from freezing.
For the choke, a cable operated manual choke kit may be a good option if the OE system is missing or messed up. Electric choke can work but not ideal. Full manual choke to get her started, half choke for a few minutes to get her warmed up and choke off after that.
Also worth mentioning, battery, cables and charging system need to be in good shape. "OE equivalent" is fine.
Ignition first... plugs, wires, cap, rotor and timing in good shape.
And the carb... I had good luck with an "Autoline" 2v reman from Autozone. All factory setup including choke, coolant hoses and manifold heat stove. I had good starts after sitting outside at -5 degrees F... and that running heavier oil than I should at that temp (15w40).
And the oil... how cold? For really cold, 10w30 or 5w___ would be better. Just need to pick something that has enough zinc for the flat tappet cam or use one of the zinc additives.
Your "emissions stuff" disconnected may be a problem. I think it is a good idea to re-connect the coolant hoses as original if nothing else to keep the carb from freezing.
For the choke, a cable operated manual choke kit may be a good option if the OE system is missing or messed up. Electric choke can work but not ideal. Full manual choke to get her started, half choke for a few minutes to get her warmed up and choke off after that.
Also worth mentioning, battery, cables and charging system need to be in good shape. "OE equivalent" is fine.
Any idea where I can find the heat shield for the stove? It's missing as well as the tube. Tube is easy.
Postmaster
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From: Pasadena, Ca
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Mountain Pass
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Senior User
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I bought this for my '74 and it fits perfect.
Choke Tube Kit 1965-1973 260/289/302-2V & 4V Mustang | Choke Assemblies & Tubes | Choke | Air & Fuel | Mustang | MustangsUnlimited.com
Choke Tube Kit 1965-1973 260/289/302-2V & 4V Mustang | Choke Assemblies & Tubes | Choke | Air & Fuel | Mustang | MustangsUnlimited.com
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
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On electric chokes... they are pre-tuned for average conditions. In warm weather they may choke too much. In cold weather not enough choke or maybe no start. If you try several times to get it started the electric choke may heat up enough to come off and it won't start.
The OE setup is pretty effective... but sounds like you are missing a lot of parts and its hard to piece it back together and get it working.
For plan "B" I just think a manual choke will work better for you vs electric.
The OE setup is pretty effective... but sounds like you are missing a lot of parts and its hard to piece it back together and get it working.
For plan "B" I just think a manual choke will work better for you vs electric.
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