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Some of you told me last year that I really should run a fan. I haven't been. Over the course of the summer temps have been rising on my gauge from the reasonable temps I was initially running while moving. I installed a pair of ten inch fans and it barely made any difference. Today I installed a milodon high output water pump, the high capacity 180 degree thermostat that Tim sells, and another 10" fan. (I have room for 4). Also ran some sulfamic acid through the whole system beforehand.
I found that my correct Stant thermostat was working great as evidenced by the pan on the stove test. The OEM water pump looked fine. While up to temp, I brought the revs up to around 2,000 and witnessed the lower radiator hose collapsing. WTF? I'm thinking that was the biggest culprit the whole time.
The hose is made in Mexico and is labeled 60995, also 078. It is shaped and fits perfectly, but has no reinforcement or internal spring to resist collapsing. Do most of these rigs sport non collapsible hoses? Where could I find a coil to insert into the hose? Where could I find a shaped non collapsible hose. Any one else seen this?
Yep, sounds like you need a spring in there. Incidentally, I just had my rad hoses off of the rad, and some ignoramus had put the spring in the upper hose!! (either that, or they put the hoses in the wrong locations) I pulled it out and stuck it in the lower hose.
One time when I was young, I unraveled a wire coathanger, coiled it up like a hose-spring, and stuck it in the lower hose of whatever I was driving at the time. I wouldn't recommend using a coathanger, but if you can find some heavy enough wire which will stand up to the elements in the cooling system, then just make your own spring. If your hoses need replacing, then shop for a lower with a spring in it.
Some of you told me last year that I really should run a fan. I haven't been. Over the course of the summer temps have been rising on my gauge from the reasonable temps I was initially running while moving. I installed a pair of ten inch fans and it barely made any difference. Today I installed a milodon high output water pump, the high capacity 180 degree thermostat that Tim sells, and another 10" fan. (I have room for 4). Also ran some sulfamic acid through the whole system beforehand.
I found that my correct Stant thermostat was working great as evidenced by the pan on the stove test. The OEM water pump looked fine. While up to temp, I brought the revs up to around 2,000 and witnessed the lower radiator hose collapsing. WTF? I'm thinking that was the biggest culprit the whole time.
The hose is made in Mexico and is labeled 60995, also 078. It is shaped and fits perfectly, but has no reinforcement or internal spring to resist collapsing. Do most of these rigs sport non collapsible hoses? Where could I find a coil to insert into the hose? Where could I find a shaped non collapsible hose. Any one else seen this?
When moving, the fan mostly gets in the way. When slow or stopped it is crucial. "A pair of 10" fans" sounds like electrics? Do you have a pic of the setup?
Why I ask... two 10" electrics will not normally move enough air to help at slow speeds. You need a mechanical fan or a really big electric fan like the OE Mark III Lincoln fan to do the job. A shroud on 10" electrics would make a lot of restriction... and cause overheat moving.
The collapsing hose may be caused by HV water pump... by all means put a spring in it. Can't hurt.
More important I think is to get a big open fan setup that lets the air flow freely at speed and creates enough airflow at a stop to keep her cool.
I once ran into a McParts store and grabbed a cheapo top hose that was so flimsy I didnt even bother installing it..... was one of the few times in my life I actually listened to that little voice in my head..... It was collapsing in my hand when I was testing for fitment... Said 'self' we aint doing this today and ordered the beefy one from rock auto.... I can also tell you that the supper duper thick triple wall ribbed hoses are VERY difficult to clamp and will leak... I ended up double clamping my bottom super duper ribbed hose.... So a happy medium is best IMO.....
When moving, the fan mostly gets in the way. When slow or stopped it is crucial. "A pair of 10" fans" sounds like electrics? Do you have a pic of the setup?
Why I ask... two 10" electrics will not normally move enough air to help at slow speeds. You need a mechanical fan or a really big electric fan like the OE Mark III Lincoln fan to do the job. A shroud on 10" electrics would make a lot of restriction... and cause overheat moving.
The collapsing hose may be caused by HV water pump... by all means put a spring in it. Can't hurt.
More important I think is to get a big open fan setup that lets the air flow freely at speed and creates enough airflow at a stop to keep her cool.
The 10 inch fans move 1,000 cfm each. I have a basically new 26.5x 24 radiator. 2.5" thick with 4' wide/deep top tank. The largest radiator ever put in these trucks. I have experience running vehicles sans fans and this one didn't really overheat until recently, so I figured something changed. I figure that the hose started to collapse even before the high flow units I installed. The fans are stuck directly to the radiator with the normal zip tie locks that many small fans use and are run through an adjustable temp control. I wanted to run as little fan as necessary so I chose a model that had adjustable airflow through addition or subtraction.
Looks like a good setup to me. I've had good luck running a single 14 to 16 inch electric fan on most of my older vehicles and would highly recommend one... its like removing a flywheel from the engine and increases the throttle response nicely.
There shouldn't be anything wrong with running multiple smaller units like that.
It was a few years back that some manufacturer (GATES?) deleted the springs in the lower hoses as they claimed the actual hose material was stronger and wouldn't collapse. Of course that was proven wrong.
A HV pump will cause cavitation.
You need to only buy QUALITY hoses from MOTORCRAFT aka GATES, DAYCO or AC DELCO. Stay out of the dollar stores.
My .02.....I see no fan shroud and if you want to run electric fans put them on the front side of the radiator. The factory fan shroud and fan helps pull the air thru the radiator at slow speeds more then you think and at freeway speeds the factory fan really doesn't do anything.
Running a factory fan shroud and a factory fan is usually way more then enough. I've got a 460 in my truck with no issues and no electric fans etc....Same as my '68 Firebird and the motor in that car is making 550hp and I run the factory radiator fan shroud and factory flex fan. Even in stop and go traffic it doesn't run hot.
I'd get a fan shroud, factory fan and put one or two of the electric fans on the front side of the radiator if you need them or want them for safety etc...and I'd agree with the amount of fans you have you could be blocking air flow. Also check to make sure the fans are pulling air in your set up and not pushing air if you haven't already.
My .02.....I see no fan shroud and if you want to run electric fans put them on the front side of the radiator. The factory fan shroud and fan helps pull the air thru the radiator at slow speeds more then you think and at freeway speeds the factory fan really doesn't do anything.
A front mount electric fan asm will totally block airflow (even at speed). There is less instance of airflow over the tubes.
MARK VIII/TAURUS multi-speed is the only way to go (IMO)
I searched the number and came up with "Continental Elite, formerly Goodyear. It is the correct hose.
The coils used to be STD in quality hoses. You want a molded hose, not flex.
GOODYEAR is a quality source. When you find a PN you need to see SPECS and see if it includes the coil (SS).. The coil shown on the MUST site is 1 1/2" I.D.
There is no universal standard for rating electric fan flow.
That said, as a general comment primary cooling fans need to be at least 5,000 CFM. Two times 1,000 will not get the job done. Plus the shroud I see will block airflow rolling.
Suggest you get a 5,000 CFM + electric and big shroud or use a stock mechanical fan + shroud.
...as a general comment primary cooling fans need to be at least 5,000 CFM. Two times 1,000 will not get the job done. Plus the shroud I see will block airflow rolling.
Suggest you get a 5,000 CFM + electric and big shroud or use a stock mechanical fan + shroud.
This has got to have come from out of left field - most estimates peg 2000cfm as more than adequate for the vast majority of engines. I myself have run 1500cfm (150W 16" single) on a few notoriously hot engines and really not had an issue, even sans shroud. Yes, traffic tested in 38'C/100'F heat down here in Australia.
I don't see a shroud on the OP's picture, if you are referring to the foam type material around the base of the fan then this would only be an 'outline' to help pad the base of the fan shroud and prevent damage to the radiator, as well as sealing it more effectively.
Mechanical fans have two things going for them: foolproof and easily available. They also have marginally worse fuel economy, poorer throttle response, suck a lot of peak power (up to 30hp at 5000rpm!) and on a performance engine can have issues with blades shedding.
The benefits of mechanical fans are often matched nowdays by even bargain electric systems - the rig for my 351C is a single electric fan, no external shroud, and a thermostatic governor... all for about $50.
I've got a single 12" electric set up just like this on the 2.5l Jeep I built a dozen yrs ago. has worked fine. Summit Racing argues a thousand cfm per 100 horsepower. I bet they have a clue.
This is for boink, as I bet he's seen this kind of stuff, considering his locale.
I may do something a little more snazzy later, but for now, I have a functioning radiator over flow bottle.
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(either that, or they put the hoses in the wrong locations) I pulled it out and stuck it in the lower hose.
was one of the few times in my life I actually listened to that little voice in my head..... It was collapsing in my hand when I was testing for fitment... Said 'self' we aint doing this today and ordered the beefy one from rock auto.... 
I can also tell you that the supper duper thick triple wall ribbed hoses are VERY difficult to clamp and will leak... I ended up double clamping my bottom super duper ribbed hose.... So a happy medium is best IMO..... 
