Setting up a 4bbl intake... advice?
I'm curious if there is any advantage to putting back on all of the vacuum lines and hoses and check valves and vacuum tees when installing the 4bbl intake on a 400?
I've seen some debates on here before, and I'm not trying to start a food fight by any means. I'm just looking for some general advice and experiences, hopefully some facts about how a 4bbl intake will benefit or detriment the motor when all of those pesky vacuum lines are either:
A) removed.
B) re-installed.
Opinions, advice, criticisms, etc, is welcomed.
I'm happier and so is the engine without all the extra goo-gaa vacuum stuff.
Side note: A Long time ago the factory installed vacuum gauge on my brothers 1964 Bonneville rag top (leather bucket seats, real wood inlay, dripping with chrome, what a car) was known by his girl friend as the horny meter.
Is there any downfalls to going the short/simple route with all of the vacuum stuff?
Hard starts? Hard cold starts? Poor throttle reponse? stuff like that.
No hard starts....I have a manual choke that I never use, even in winter. Throttle response? ***** to the wall when I punch it, in any gear....of course, without all the extraneous vacuum booogers, the timing and carb can be set to be more efficient...thus producing better poop overall.
Think about it fer a minute - without all those extra vacuum dealie-thingamabobs sucking (pun intended) yer intake dry of inches Hg, there's more left for the fuel charge. Less work for the air pump, which is of course, what our/any engines are.
In fact, at one time the only air going into the intake runners was air/fuel - I had connected the PVC setup to run off header (exhaust) pressure/flow - such as in circle track. Man, that was the hot setup! But I had to change it back 'cause the mufflers I was using got oil contaminated to some extent.
Overheating due to no EGR? Nope.
Any more questions, Grasshopper?
No hard starts....I have a manual choke that I never use, even in winter. Throttle response? ***** to the wall when I punch it, in any gear....of course, without all the extraneous vacuum booogers, the timing and carb can be set to be more efficient...thus producing better poop overall.
Think about it fer a minute - without all those extra vacuum dealie-thingamabobs sucking (pun intended) yer intake dry of inches Hg, there's more left for the fuel charge. Less work for the air pump, which is of course, what our/any engines are.
In fact, at one time the only air going into the intake runners was air/fuel - I had connected the PVC setup to run off header (exhaust) pressure/flow - such as in circle track. Man, that was the hot setup! But I had to change it back 'cause the mufflers I was using got oil contaminated to some extent.
Overheating due to no EGR? Nope.
Any more questions, Grasshopper?
Always more questions. Being well-informed is important lol.
Any idea if there are differences between the bolts used in the 351C & 351M/400 motors?
I want to buy a full ARP bolt kit for the motor for when it returns. ARP-554-9804 Is the summit kit for the 351C... Wondering if anyone has any experience with it for the 351M/400.
ARP might be overkill but it's better than reusing the old rusted bolts.
I'm asking because I thought I remembered there was something different between the C and M intakes.
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I'll be buying that bolt kit with my summit order.
Will also be ridding myself of those awful vacuum hoses everywhere. Thank god I get to do that...
I'll be running a heater box in the cab to replace all the A/C junk. All I want is defrost for those cold morning starts to defog the windshield.... and maybe a little heat for the girlfriend (she's always cold lol).
No hard starts....I have a manual choke that I never use, even in winter. Throttle response? ***** to the wall when I punch it, in any gear....of course, without all the extraneous vacuum booogers, the timing and carb can be set to be more efficient...thus producing better poop overall.







