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1978 f-250 4x4 supercab. I bought a a cab mount bushing kit from JBG. Apparently same kit for supercab and standard cab, no difference said the salesman. , fronts went in fine, no issues. I installed the rear, now the back of the cab sits 1/2 higher than the bed and the body lines don't align up! I didn't use a torque wrench I just cranked them down until they got really tight. Are supercab rear bushings different from standard cab bushings?
What did I do wrong? Thanks.
Last edited by hail destroyer; Sep 24, 2017 at 11:01 AM.
Reason: Add pic
PS, I couldn't really compare them to the ones I'd removed, as they were completely crushed, rotten and cracked and had to be cut out with a sawzall, so I had no reference part for comparison. Thanks again.
Are there any shims under the box? If there are try taking them out to lower the box. If not you will have to use shims to shim up the cab to the right height. Either way it could end up being a LONG process. Read A PITA. Good luck . Popa J
That was my first thought too poppajon. No shims under the box or the cab. I changed out the bed for one two years older, everything aligned fine until I replaced cab bushings. No shims under the original bed that I'd removed either and that aligned close.. I'm starting to suspect that I may need to torque them down more, as from every rear cab mount that I've seen installed, they were crushed down into a balloon shape. Can't find a torque specs for rear/supercab anywhere.
Ahh yes, good ole bed shims. I had always been bothered that my bed lines were slightly higher than my cab lines. I attributed it to the bushings on my cab being worn. When I had fuel tank sending unit issues I had to raise my bed up off of the frame to work on my tank since it's the aftermarket extra capacity tank. Apparently, to install it they had once removed the bed before. When I removed my bed I found two stacks of Ford factory shims on the front two bed bolts. They had forgotten to reinstall them and decided to just place them between the frame and bed "so we didn't lose them". Once I put the bed back on, I put anti-seize on all of that hardware in its right place. Now my bed and cab match up. It really wasn't that bad of a job but I wouldn't do it just for fun.
I could easily be wrong hail destroyer, but that frame mount looks like it's been "fixed" at some point in it's life. I thought they were all just the stamped pieces, but yours looks to have a plate welded to the top of it. Apparently to fix a rusted out mount.
It's very possible that when they did it with the crushed stock rubber cushions/insulators, the extra height was not an issue. But if they did add any height, this might be your explanation now that you have good full-height cushions.
I wonder if that's even applicable to the polyurethane mounts though? Completely different hardware design.
The steel retainers on the stock setup are designed to interact and literally compress/bind/mushroom together, which would act against the torque applied.
The poly bushings are (usually at least) just nuts, bolts and washers. If I'd tried to get 50 lbs out of the ones I did years ago they would have crushed way down.
Anyway, just use your own sense and do 50 if it'll reach that. But if not, and you see it start to squeeze the bushings down beyond where the stock ones would sit, stop and just let the locking nuts do their job.
So how tall were the stock ones when installed? I never measured mine first unfortunately.
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