Now I did it...
My Explorer had been idling pretty rough, put plugs in hoping that would help, but same.
Looking at it today I thought it seemed like idle was just slow.
Saw what looked like a stop screw on the front side of throttle body.
Thought I might be able to adjust and speed up the idle 50-60 rpms and smooth things out.
Well...
I took the screw out and it looked like the thing had been driven way in and there was some of the bottom plastic area that looked like it had came right off.
I checked inside the threaded hole and saw small piece had fallen through.
Took the assembly apart and got the separated piece out of the idle adjusting assembly or whatever I should be calling it.
Took a little to get spring and all of it back but did it.
Replaced the adjustment screw to where I thought it was or close to it.
Went to start the Explorer with hopes of it running smoother but WAY WAY WAY worse.
A couple back fires and REAL rough.
Scanned to see P2104 P2112 and a couple other test not completed codes.
I see all related to idle and throttle.
Tried and tried to clear codes.
Unhooked battery.
Crossed battery cables.
Let sit for a while.
Let idle for a while.
But throttle still non working and little rough running.
I can get one of the check engine lights off but wrench stays lit on dash and no throttle.
Is there any way to fix this?
Almost seems to run good enough, but needs a big major code cleared now....?
Is the screw need to be set with better positioning?
Hoping to figure this out soon.
Can't drive it now.
Freeze frame from scanner below and some pics of what I am talking about.
Appreciate any and all help.
THANKS


Vehicle VIN: 1FM
Vehicle Manufacturer: Ford
Vehicle Calibration ID: PWF

Freeze frame information:
------------------
Fuel Status = 0 byte
Engine Load = 25.098 %
Engine Coolant Temperature = 77 °C
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term = 0 %
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term = 0 %
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Short Term = -0.781 %
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Long Term = 0 %
Intake Manifold Pressure = 4.351 psi
Engine RPM = 719.5 rpm
Speed (OBD) = 0 km/h
Timing Advance = 15 °
Intake Air Temperature = 34 °C
Mass Air Flow Rate = 4.44 g/s
Fuel trim bank 1 sensor 1 = 0 %
Fuel trim bank 2 sensor 1 = -0.781 %
Run time since engine start = 83 s
Fuel Rail Pressure (relative to manifold vacuum) = 39.806 psi
EGR Commanded = 0 %
EGR Error = 0 %
Fuel Level (From Engine ECU) = 89.412 %
Distance travelled since codes cleared = 0 km
Evap System Vapour Pressure = -94.25 Pa
Barometric pressure (from vehicle) = 13.489 psi
Catalyst Temperature (Bank 1,Sensor 1) = 211.9 °C
Catalyst Temperature (Bank 2,Sensor 1) = 211.9 °C
PID: 41 = 0
Voltage (Control Module) = 14.169 V
Engine Load(Absolute) = 15.686 %
Commanded Equivalence Ratio(lambda) = 1
Relative Throttle Position = 1.961 %
Ambient air temp = 34 °C
Absolute Throttle Position B = 17.647 %
Accelerator PedalPosition D = 20.392 %
Accelerator PedalPosition E = 30.196 %
Accelerator PedalPosition F = 19.216 %


End of report.

 

Been searching...
Any way to get rid of the orange wrench light?
Limp mode?
Thanks again

 

Still trying
still searching
Still have wrench light on and no throttle response

Pulled both battery cables last night and left positive and negative together over night.
Took the air intake tube off and adjusted the screw I wish I had never touched.
Kept my fingers on the throttle blade and adjusted the screw until it had the blade just cracked.
Looks and I "think" that is approximately where it was when I started.
Had high hopes, reconnected battery, turn the key...same
Saw a video online where Ford tech disconnected negative cable from battery and ran a small jumper wire to positive cable still attached to battery.
Says that will drain capacitors after 1/2 hour or so and should clear codes, trims, etc.
HOPING this will help me too.
I sure did it this time.
Hoping the screw is close enough to where it was and belongs and I can get this orange wrench reset

 

I am starting to get scared.
Still have not uncovered any ways to get rid of the wrench alarm

 

I thought the wrench light usually just indicated service was required, such as it thinking it's due for an oil change. Have you checked your owner's manual for the meaning of the particular light you're referring to? I didn't think the wrench light would cause a limp mode condition.

-Rod

 

Everything I have found says that the orange wrench lights up when something major.
Found a lot of articles and threads saying when transmissions fail or throttle bodies mostly.
This morning I see that when the idle side and throttle position sensor aren't aligned it will do this and go into limp mode.
If that was the case for me I now need to figure out how to align them maybe...?????
I have unplugged the idle side, maybe unplugging the throttle side...???
Me not know
Drove son's old Saturn into work today since nothing but a rough idle with the Explorer.
Lost right now

That is what I have seen so far anyways.
Have not searched the owners manual too much yet, but guess that can't hurt.
Will try seeing if there is anything in there for me tonight.
THANKS for the help and reply

 

Still searching and still no throttle no driving
Found some "instructions" dealing with IAC valve resets and procedure.
Tried applying some of that to the Explorer but still no luck.
It sat overnight again w/o battery hooked up, started it, let it idle until it warmed up, unplugged the idle motor (I think that is what it is-on the front side of the throttle body), adjusted the screw I should have never touched until rpms were just under 700,
shut motor off, turned key to on w/o starting motor, plugged in the connection, unhooked battery again for a few minutes, restarted...SAME.
Or at least pretty close to same. Saw P2110 and P2104 instead of P2112 and P2104.
Idles smoother but still has wrench light and no throttle response.
Thinking I probably need to find a sequence similar to what would be needed if a new throttle body were getting installed.
Anyone have any ideas??
Would like to get back on the road.
Appreciate any help.
THANKS again ! ! !

 

Just read a reply of my same thread on a ranger forum.
Was told that when I moved and adjusted screw it damaged the throttle position sensor and now I need a new throttle body

Anyone know if the TPS can be replaced or think the entire throttle body assembly needs to get replaced?

Thanks

 

Well, at this point it probably won't do any further damage to start removing screws to see if it's something you can repair, right? I don't think Ford sells just the TPS portion of the the electronic throttle body, but maybe you'll be able to spot what's damaged and engineer a way to fix it.

If you do decide to disassemble the throttle body, I'd be interested to see some photos of what they look like in the motor/gear box.

-Rod

 

I did have the front side of it apart.
Took 5 torx head screws out to get inside.
It was a pain to get back together since there is a recoil spring.
Took a little while but did get it all back together.
When I took the screw out, the bottom of the plastic body had pieces break off.
I opened it up to get that out.
I am assuming that is all good still since there is a small gear on the end of the drive motor, a larger gear that drives a 1/2 of a gear that connects to the throttle blade, a recoil spring central on that 1/2 gear, and the stop screw.
I am also assuming that it is the throttle position sensor on the other side-toward firewall that got damaged...(?).
If I get a new one and end up with this as scrap I'll crack it open and take some pics.
Maybe even the sensor side too.
Kind of curious myself.

 

Back on the road finally.
Really appreciate the help !!!
Ended up getting a new throttle body.
Was still fearing the worst when I installed it and got ready to turn the key, but...
Instantly better.

Didn't realize and never would have guessed how I f'd myself playing around with that screw so bad.

Looking back I came up with a couple other questions I guess.
Wondering what really happens when I wrecked this thing?
Is it the throttle position sensor getting out of sync with the drive side ?

If one was to manually open the throttle body, like take your fingers and push it open in order to inspect or spray cleaner down the throat, would that damage and wreck the same way I did here?


I got some help on another forum...
posted pics and results there too if curious at all.













2008 idle stop screw P2112 orange wrench ?s - The Ranger Station Forums

 

Thank you for posting the images. I really don't see how that idle screw could have caused the whole throttle body to fail, I wonder if that wasn't the real issue overall, but you just had a faulty throttle body? I'm glad to hear the new one fixed it. I'm sure that wasn't an inexpensive part!

I don't have a lot of experience doing this, but have a handful of times manually opened a throttle plate to check and clean the back side with throttle body cleaner. To date I have not encountered any ill effects from doing so.

-Rod

 

Not sure what the real issue is when I messed with the screw...
I have asked that in a few other places to see.
It did run OK before I messed with it, and now again with the new.
I got an aftermarket part $83 delivered.
Hate to admit it and will find out if the quality is there or not.
Thought for the price I would see if it would even fix my troubles or not.
Runs good now.
If it screws up down the road, I may consider an better quality part.
I know I won't screw around without knowing more from now on.

 

RSCHAP1
All I can add to your situation is: the spring that goes from the drive motor plate to the throttle plate has to have back tension. I replaced my throttle drive motor and it came with a tool so I could adjust the spring after the new drive motor was installed on the throttle body. Surprised at how much tension it has to return the throttle to closed or idle position.

Not sure if had the tension correct when you reinstalled yours.

 

Could be...
I think I had as many turns as when it came apart, but hard to tell for sure.
I was thinking that not having the screw in the "exact" same spot might have caused trouble too...
?
The aftermarket assembly been doing good so far.
Still a rough slow idle but don't know how to adjust if there is a way.