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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

DIY Coolant Filter

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Old Oct 12, 2017 | 11:54 PM
  #16  
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dclack
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Originally Posted by 0500757Arf
So you used 5/8 hose to get to the filter, notice any difference in cabin heat?
Yeah, 5/8" hose. That's the size of the fittings for that filter base. No change in cabin heat.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2017 | 07:30 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by dclack
Yeah, 5/8" hose. That's the size of the fittings for that filter base. No change in cabin heat.
I got 3/8 npt bungs in my filter base so just gonna buy 2 5/8 T fittings and 2 3/8 npt to 5/8 barb 90 degree fittings. I have 5/8 heater hose laying around so I can use that.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2017 | 09:28 AM
  #18  
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I have a question. How much coolant would really flow through the filter? Liquid will take the path of least resistance. If you aren't reducing the volume of the original flow path, wouldn't the coolant flow into the new filter and lines until filled and then be kind of stagnant? The filter would create some resistance do to the filter material. Wouldn't you need to reduce the hose size or area just after the T for coolant flow into the filter to force it to keep a flow going into the filter? Maybe put another gate valve or similar there to so you can manually reduce the area in the line to create a little restriction?
 
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Old Oct 13, 2017 | 10:20 AM
  #19  
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I don't know how much fluid flows through the filter, but there is definitely some flow. the post filter hose gets hot at the same time as my upper rad hose gets hot.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2017 | 02:56 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by farmert
The elbows are 3/8 street elbows threaded into the filter head. Ball valves are threaded to the elbow, then adapted to 1/2 pipe tees. with 1/2" pipe thread to 5/8 hose barbs.
ahhhh ok that makes sense now so you are running 5/8 hose but your filter is the most restrictive part with the 3/8
 
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Old Oct 13, 2017 | 02:59 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by wildstang
I have a question. How much coolant would really flow through the filter? Liquid will take the path of least resistance. If you aren't reducing the volume of the original flow path, wouldn't the coolant flow into the new filter and lines until filled and then be kind of stagnant? The filter would create some resistance do to the filter material. Wouldn't you need to reduce the hose size or area just after the T for coolant flow into the filter to force it to keep a flow going into the filter? Maybe put another gate valve or similar there to so you can manually reduce the area in the line to create a little restriction?

this is a good point, would running the same set up as tapping into the supply and return lines of heater core but instead using 3/8 hose to supply the filter price to be more efficient? I know very little on fluid flow but what you're saying I can make sense of, but as with many things in life they aren't always as they appear or how we'd assume them to work so would love to hear someone who knows a lot about fluid flow chime in on this
 
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